Gas line routing

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furyfrank

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I am looking to find out how the gas line from the fuel pump to the carb should run. The car I have has the wrong routing for it.
 
Any bodies guess at this point! Might be a Fury based on the sign on name?
 
might be someone routed it differently for a reason
 
Go read up on the Fuel line mod. If somebody hasn't done it for you, do it for yourself. The factory routing is problematic.

I did not find this thread until after I was having that fuel boiling problem. I just got my first slant 6 and started making it my daily right off the bat. I live in Sandy Eggo so it is still hot here as we are still having 80 degree days. So fuel boiling in traffic or stopping at a store after an extended drive from work "25 miles one way" these problems started RIGHT AWAY, ha ha ha. I solved mine by using a heat sleeve on both fuel lines and made a heat deflector/shield for my metal fuel filter. Your way would have been way easier but this way works well also. Ps thanks for all the great links randomly posted throughout the years that are only a Google search away. I believe the new NGK plugs with the washer removed will help another problem that the HEI started. PINGING

dart14.jpg
 
I believe the new NGK plugs with the washer removed will help another problem that the HEI started. PINGING
That is a new one for me... an HEI causing pinging. Here is what could be happening:
- HEI's create a hotter version of what is called the 'spark kernal' (the initial phase of combustion, from which all the rest of the combustion spreads)
- A hotter spark kernal will cause the initial phases of the combustion process in the chamber to move along faster.... In that aspect, it is somewhat like more timing advance in the system.
- The /6 combustion chamber is not the best for too much timing advance.
- So you may have to retard the initial timing a few degrees now. Where is it set now?
 
HEI is not causing pinging. It doesn't work that way (hotter spark kernel, etc etc). What's happening is that the distributor the OP put in as part of his conversion has different advance curves than the one he took out, and it's not a match for his driving conditions, his gasoline, and his base timing (wherever he set it).

Temporary solution is probably to retard the base timing as nm9 says—what's it set at now?

Long-term optial solution: get with DusterIdiot over on slantsix.org for a distributor recurve (or recurved distributor).
 
That is a new one for me... an HEI causing pinging. Here is what could be happening:
- HEI's create a hotter version of what is called the 'spark kernal' (the initial phase of combustion, from which all the rest of the combustion spreads)
- A hotter spark kernal will cause the initial phases of the combustion process in the chamber to move along faster.... In that aspect, it is somewhat like more timing advance in the system.
- The /6 combustion chamber is not the best for too much timing advance.
- So you may have to retard the initial timing a few degrees now. Where is it set now?

Before HEI 5 degree before TDC, with 28 of centrifugal never revved it over 4,000 rpm, total of 33 degrees. Using autolite 66 plugs with washes on. After HEI conversion 2 degrees before TDC, with 30 of centrifugal also never revved it over 4,000 rpm, for a total of 32 degrees. After this it was ping city. Tried the fuel sock over fuel line helped some. Then changed to NGK plugs 1990 dodge dakota 4 cylinder with 0.045" gap. Zero ping even at 70 mph going up hills. Timing not changed, no vacuum advance hooked on any test, same fuel, only changed what was listed above.
 
HEI is not causing pinging. It doesn't work that way (hotter spark kernel, etc etc). What's happening is that the distributor the OP put in as part of his conversion has different advance curves than the one he took out, and it's not a match for his driving conditions, his gasoline, and his base timing (wherever he set it).

Temporary solution is probably to retard the base timing as nm9 says—what's it set at now?

Long-term optial solution: get with DusterIdiot over on slantsix.org for a distributor recurve (or recurved distributor).


Yes it really need less centrifugal advance.
 
HEI is not causing pinging. It doesn't work that way (hotter spark kernel, etc etc). What's happening is that the distributor the OP put in as part of his conversion has different advance curves than the one he took out, and it's not a match for his driving conditions, his gasoline, and his base timing (wherever he set it).

Temporary solution is probably to retard the base timing as nm9 says—what's it set at now?

Long-term optial solution: get with DusterIdiot over on slantsix.org for a distributor recurve (or recurved distributor).


We have a sun distributor test/dyno at Crower. I am going to play with it on there first. I am going to try 21 centrifugal with a 10 initial first with it all in by 3,000 rpm. I will let you know how it goes on my /6 page.
 
Yes it really need less centrifugal advance.
It may just need to be brought in more slowly, but not necessarily less total. I did not realize that the HEI conversion was with a different distributor.
Did you check out the heat range of the 2 plugs? Could be you went to a cooler plug....?
 
Unless your cylinder head is a '60-'62 item, remove the spark plug washer rings—they are not to be used with '63-'74 heads, and using them makes the plugs run hot, which increases the tendency to ping.

Also, today's Autolite spark plugs are Chinese junk. Don't know how a 4-cylinder '90 Dakota should figure into it (shouldn't), but swap 'em out for a set of NGK ZFR5N plugs (stock № 3459).
 
Here is the fuel line on my recently pulled 82 S/6 from my 76 Dart (for frame rail replacement)

I can take some more detailed pictures if you need em.

fuel1.jpg
fuel2.jpg
 
Temporary solution is probably to retard the base timing as nm9 says—what's it set at now?

Long-term optial solution: get with DusterIdiot over on slantsix.org for a distributor recurve (or recurved distributor).

Or contact @halifaxhops here at FABO. He has a Sun distributor machine and can fix you up!
 
Unless your cylinder head is a '60-'62 item, remove the spark plug washer rings—they are not to be used with '63-'74 heads, and using them makes the plugs run hot, which increases the tendency to ping.

Also, today's Autolite spark plugs are Chinese junk. Don't know how a 4-cylinder '90 Dakota should figure into it (shouldn't), but swap 'em out for a set of NGK ZFR5N plugs (stock № 3459).

That plug number NGK ZFR5N is for a 1990 dodge dakota. The reason why I did this is because try and walk into an auto zone and ask for a plug with a part number. They will have no clue what you are talking about (at least around here). Hell you have to give the the engine size, is it a 4x4, what color is it for damm wiper blades. But if you give them the year make and model of the car and then ask for NGK you will not get that deer in the headlights look. Here is a screen shot to show you what it fits.

Screenshot (45).png
 
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That plug number NGK ZFR5N is for a 1990 dodge dakota. The reason why I did this is because try and walk into an auto zone and ask for a plug with a part number. They will have no clue what you are talking about (at least around here). Hell you have to give the the engine size, is it a 4x4, what color is it for damm wiper blades. But if you give them the year make and model of the car and then ask for NGK you will not get that deer in the headlights look. Here is a screen shot to show you what it fits.

View attachment 1715123375
Uggggh. I know.

We need a full vehicle description.

When i went to replace my fuel pump for my honda st1300 motorcycle i had to look up numbers and see it is also from a honda accord myself. Cant just give any ole part number.
 
That plug number NGK ZFR5N is for a 1990 dodge dakota

Oh. Okeh, I didn't know they put 'em in those, too.

The reason why I did this is because try and walk into an auto zone and ask for a plug with a part number. They will have no clue what you are talking about

That's a fair point, as per this and the attached.

Take the ring washers off 'em, though, if you haven't already.

Buying_Parts.jpg
 
I have had fuel boiling problems with 3-4 slants over the last several years. Each time I changed to FI line and run it over the valve cover, it has eliminated the problem. OK so I had the 4th one do it yesterday. Got to change it over !!!!! I am convinced.
 
Oh. Okeh, I didn't know they put 'em in those, too.



That's a fair point, as per this and the attached.

Take the ring washers off 'em, though, if you haven't already.

View attachment 1715123442


Yep this is why I go armed with car info. Yes I took the washers off when I was googling info and saw a post of yours on some random link about the spark plug tubes. I bought this car as a runner and the autolites that were in there had the washers on them. When I did all this then found another one of your posts about the NGK plug that solved everything. But I am not done. I am going to install my wide band and see what this thing is really doing. Plus I am going to try and recurve this distributor myself. Its my very first /6 so the learning curve is fast.
 
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