/6 Hooker Headers...surprise

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dostroupe

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So, I am making the swap to a 2bbl manifold on my '70 Duster with a /6. I had just rescued this car in June, and have gotten it drivable. When I bought the car the exhaust manifold was badly broken, but it came with a good used one so I put it on. The spring for the heat riser broke and was boiling gas out of the carburetor. I wired the flap open to get the exhaust heat away from the intake. It ran great, no worries. Now, my plan was to upgrade in stages and I purchased 2bbl carb and intake right after buying the car. I will do 4bbl, head and cam upgrades later. I decided a couple of weeks ago to go ahead with the 2bbl swap. When I pulled the manifolds I noticed this exhaust manifold was also cracked, not bad, but still cracked. Now is the time to upgrade the exhaust too.

The plan has always been to put headers with the other mentioned above parts on the engine. I looked at all the available options and decided to go with a set of Hooker headers. I ordered them from Speedway motors and with discounts and free shipping got them for a decent price, still a good chunk of change though. They were drop shipped from Hooker and arrived within a week, I got them yesterday. Now the surprise, I got them out of the box, and one of the tubes on the front set had a tube welded on. I thought to myself cool, I can make a heat riser from this. As I pulled the rest of the stuff from the box I found all the stuff needed to have a heat riser. No where in my readings have I ran across anyone talking about this, maybe I missed it, I don't know. I definitely haven't seen any pictures of it. I will hook it up and try it, I just hope it works like it's supposed to.
 
Do you really need that heat riser? I always disabled them and never really had any issues....
 
The heat riser makes a good difference in fuel atomization. And allows it to happen faster when its cold out as compared to the natural heat soak. I wired mine shut as an experiment and it took noticeably longer for the big ole cold flat spot to go away. Im talking like 0c outside temp, my fall driving before put away .

Now...headers may make it hot as **** under the hood anyways...so?..
 
No, probably not, especially in the summer. But I know there are people who swear by them and would not run headers because headers do not have them. I don't know if this is a new thing with the Hooker headers or not, I just know I haven't seen it before. I will get backlash for even mentioning the fact that it's probably not needed. But those people do not live here and had gas boil out of the carb.
 
Having experienced the under hood heat issue in GA with my EFI sump system, I would suggest wrapping the headers with DEI insulating tape before you install. its a lot easier with the header loose.
 
Winters in the south are usually not all that cold nor for very long. Even when the temps got into the teens years ago, I was able to get my pickup going even without a choke. Warmup time was longer of course but it's doable.
 
Intake manifold heat is commonly misunderstood to be just a cold-weather thing. It is not. Read this (and watch the linked movie) and this.

(Unless you like sending raw gas and the money you paid for it out the tailpipe and down the cylinders into the crankcase to crap up and dilute your oil…in that case, go ahead and run without intake manifold heat.)
 
Intake manifold heat is commonly misunderstood to be just a cold-weather thing. It is not. Read this (and watch the linked movie) and this.

(Unless you like sending raw gas and the money you paid for it out the tailpipe and down the cylinders into the crankcase to crap up and dilute your oil…in that case, go ahead and run without intake manifold heat.)


Most of us know that. Clearly lots think its hooey all together.

For the 10 to 15 hp claim id have to see dyno runs to back that up.

It sure makes intake manifold warm up quick from cold start in low ambient.
 
Yep, people (and magazine articles) make all kinds of claims like that: Get 15 free horsepower by [whatever whatever whatever]. Usually no data, or a jiggered test, but always a big, loud crowd of True Believers who have a personal relationship with removed heat risers (or whatever) as their personal lord and saviour. And then the truth or falsehood question stops mattering, because it doesn't matter how much high-quality data you show them; they keep their fingers stuck in their ears and go "LA LA LA I CAN'T HEAR YOU FAKE NEWS LA LA LA LA".

¯\_(ツ)_/¯
 
Yeah, yeah, yeah, Canada, go Maple leafs! I respect the /6 gurus and take their advice, I really do. I live in MACON, GA where I just came in from the shop in a T-SHIRT!!!! Earlier I was sweating cutting the old exhaust off of this Duster! You don't have to live where today's gas boils out of your carb. when it's so hot it feels like your face is gonna melt off when you first go outside. I respect those who live up north, I do. But I ride my harley year round here. This car is not a daily driver, never will be, hell, I won't ever need the heater in it, I promise. Everyone else spends time and money trying to cool their air fuel mixture, and the great powers that be want me to super heat mine!!!

The purpose of this thread was to let people know that new Hooker headers have a provision to heat the intake charge. They even give instructions to hook up your OEM choke. They provide spacers for the difference in manifold thickness. NONE OF THIS I HAVE READ BEFORE. Just putting information out there for people who need it! If I have to go to /6 hell then be it!!!
 
Yeah, yeah, yeah, Canada, go Maple leafs! I respect the /6 gurus and take their advice, I really do. I live in MACON, GA where I just came in from the shop in a T-SHIRT!!!! Earlier I was sweating cutting the old exhaust off of this Duster! You don't have to live where today's gas boils out of your carb. when it's so hot it feels like your face is gonna melt off when you first go outside. I respect those who live up north, I do. But I ride my harley year round here. This car is not a daily driver, never will be, hell, I won't ever need the heater in it, I promise. Everyone else spends time and money trying to cool their air fuel mixture, and the great powers that be want me to super heat mine!!!

The purpose of this thread was to let people know that new Hooker headers have a provision to heat the intake charge. They even give instructions to hook up your OEM choke. They provide spacers for the difference in manifold thickness. NONE OF THIS I HAVE READ BEFORE. Just putting information out there for people who need it! If I have to go to /6 hell then be it!!!

Yes....denser (cold) intake air is good

Fuel atomizes better in a hot intake.

The very reason chokes are needed. Especially in cold weather. Fuel puddles and drops out of suspension. Need more to run

Fact. Not fiction.

Hot engine block. Convection from block to manifold heat from the headers and hot ambient in your climate will probably not even be noticeable.

Up here thats probably undriveable for 2 of 3 seasons. Dont drive in 4 because of salt gremlins.

Thanks for the info on the headers. It honestly was a no purchase for me. I wanted the heating. I almost bought aussie speeds and did a water heat plate. Decided a nice new manifold was better for now.
 
I had a set of Hookers I bought 25 years ago and they had that tube and steel plate for the intake. And they were "Race" Hookers. It world not work with my Hyper Pak so I capped the port.
 
Yep, people (and magazine articles) make all kinds of claims like that: Get 15 free horsepower by [whatever whatever whatever]. Usually no data, or a jiggered test, but always a big, loud crowd of True Believers who have a personal relationship with removed heat risers (or whatever) as their personal lord and saviour. And then the truth or falsehood question stops mattering, because it doesn't matter how much high-quality data you show them; they keep their fingers stuck in their ears and go "LA LA LA I CAN'T HEAR YOU FAKE NEWS LA LA LA LA".

¯\_(ツ)_/¯
So the benefits of a cooler intake charge are pure conspiracy theory...and all these fresh air systems and scoops are nothing but a ploy to dupe the masses.
Intercoolers must be pure fiction.
So, tell us, Dan..exactly how many race cars have you built or tuned?
Dyno time? How much time have you spent around those things? Or is that pure fiction as well.
Seriously man..your schtick is getting old. Some people have actually graduated past memorizing service manuals and copy/pasting links to .org.
Other people are trying to learn from them.
Maybe you should consider stepping out of their ******* way, no?
 
So the benefits of a cooler intake charge are pure conspiracy theory...and all these fresh air systems and scoops are nothing but a ploy to dupe the masses.
Intercoolers must be pure fiction.
So, tell us, Dan..exactly how many race cars have you built or tuned?
Dyno time? How much time have you spent around those things? Or is that pure fiction as well.
Seriously man..your schtick is getting old. Some people have actually graduated past memorizing service manuals and copy/pasting links to .org.
Other people are trying to learn from them.
Maybe you should consider stepping out of their ******* way, no?

It all depends on the use of the vehicle. Cool air is better, on a race car. warm intake is better on a street car. I had a car (not mopar) one time, that had the manifold heat blocked, and cool air ducted from the grill area. Driving on the interstate in a cool, about 45 degrees, damp day, the car started losing power, and finally died. Got off te road, popped hood, didn't see anything wrong, started up, and drove off. After several times of this, I found that the carb was actually getting blocked with ice formation.

On my turbo engine I had to heat the carb adapter with heater water, to keep ice from forming on the outside, which caused fuel puddling, and surging.
 
It all depends on the use of the vehicle. Cool air is better, on a race car. warm intake is better on a street car. I had a car (not mopar) one time, that had the manifold heat blocked, and cool air ducted from the grill area. Driving on the interstate in a cool, about 45 degrees, damp day, the car started losing power, and finally died. Got off te road, popped hood, didn't see anything wrong, started up, and drove off. After several times of this, I found that the carb was actually getting blocked with ice formation.

On my turbo engine I had to heat the carb adapter with heater water, to keep ice from forming on the outside, which caused fuel puddling, and surging.
.
There are exceptions to every rule, Charlie, you know that.
In a street driven Slant with a normal length intake manifold and headers, there is much more than enough radiant heat to keep things running normally.
 
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There are exceptions to every rule, Charlie, you know that.
In a street driven Slant with a normal length intake manifold and headers, there is much more than enough radiant heat to keep things running normally.
I have a set of the long tube Hookers on my slant in the 68 Barracuda, that set of Hookers has the provision for the carb heat, the Clifford intake manifold I am using also has provision for water heat, neither one is in use, as I am running MPFI don't need the hot spot below the carb. If I was running a carb or throttle body on the street or track, it would have a hot spot below the carb.
an increase in under hood radiant heat with either a carb or FI is the last thing you want, Like oldschool979, I wrapped the Hookers. All that pipe with the long tube Hookers adds heat to the engine compartment. Keeping the heat in the exhaust tubes makes the headers work and keeps the under hood electrical and fuel system components off your trouble list.

image_01.jpg
 
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Cold intake-air, or cold-air intake; is different than a cold intake manifold. You can have either without the other.
My 4-season DD slantys always liked the hot spot. And carburetor icing is a whole 'nother issue, and relatively easy to banish, even without the hotspot..
But you gotta think; at WOT, how much heat can actually get transferred to the intake air, especially if the carb is getting fresh cold air, which for most of us is kindof a mandatory thing to engineer. So IMO, for a streeter in most of Canada the heated intake is kindof a good thing to have. But in Macon........IDK,............. but I do know that down there,I'd try to run without it, given your stated useage.

My Eddie headed/AG 367 (no heat cross-over) loves it's cold intake-air. I only run it from April/May to early October.
When It's cold out, I just crank more timing into it with my dash-mounted dial-back timing gizmo, and babysit her for a minute or two (no choke, 750DP). But I can always feel the top end warming up after I hit the hiway; after about 3 to 5 miles the car begins gain mph without throttle input. Then I know it's time to start cranking the timing out. I always thought one day I would make that happen automatically, but for the week or two, at either end of the season, it hasn't been annoying enough for me.....yet.

I gotta tell you that gizmo is worth it's weight in gold, and once you start getting the hang of it, you'll wonder how come you waited so long to get one. Not only will it help you to determine your power-timing in less than 10 minutes, but it will also help you in choosing a cruize timing, your part-throttle timings and your Vacuum advance. With some combos you cannot set your D up with enough steady-state cruze advance, no matter how hard you try, and so she sucks gas big-time on the hiway. Here this device can really help you, especially with a 2-stage timing curve. And for bad-gas, old-gas or wrong-gas. And for cold start, or cold idle, and for Hot-idle. And for changes in altitude. I mean this little gizmo is a miracle-cure for everything.Well everything timing related.
 
Thats what i was trying to say

I know cold dense intake air is good. Not arguing that.

Unheated cold manifolds on an inline 6 are not.
 
Thats like 10% in a slant.
Tell you what..disconnect the choke on one of these things, and let it warm just enough so that you can power brake it and launch.
Then, drive it around for ten minutes and repeat.
The seat of the pants difference is profound
 
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