Brake and blinkers not working 70 dart

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BS67401

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Hay everone my 1970 dodge dart blinker and brake lights are not working. I've checked the fuseies under the dash and they all seem fine. The lights work front and back but no blinker or brake lights when I push on the pedal. Chould it be the turn signal switch? Or dose it sound like a short somewhere thanks

2012-04-08_185820_71_dodge_dart_tur_sig_switch_r_r.gif
 
Fuse,connections are things i would look at first. Hazard switch partially depressed.
Usually the signal switch lets at least one function work. So i would look elsewhere.
 
Chould it be the turn signal switch?

It very well could be. I had the same issue. I replaced it with one of the cheap replacement parts from the local parts store and that lasted all of a couple weeks.

I cured it by getting an original OEM piece from a different steering column, still going strong. Those replecement cams are junk, IMO.

One other thing you might check first it the connection behind the driver side kick panel, there is a connection there that can get boogered up. Also make sure you have good CLEAN grounds at both lights in the back.
 
Looking at glass fuses isnt that reliable. Using a circuit tester/test light is a must.
Had buss style fuses fail that looked fine. The fuse fails inside the metal cap. Its common and easily overlooked.
 
Fuse,connections are things i would look at first. Hazard switch partially depressed.
Usually the signal switch lets at least one function work. So i would look elsewhere.
fuse connection like on the backside of the fuse box. I'll check there when I get some to look at it thanks.
 
Looking at glass fuses isnt that reliable. Using a circuit tester/test light is a must.
Had buss style fuses fail that looked fine. The fuse fails inside the metal cap. Its common and easily overlooked.
I'll do that thanks
 
fuse connection like on the backside of the fuse box.

Check the fuse with a multi meter (with key on) for power on one end, check to see if you have power on the other end.

TJ is correct in that they can "look" good, but in fact are not.
 
It very well could be. I had the same issue. I replaced it with one of the cheap replacement parts from the local parts store and that lasted all of a couple weeks.

I cured it by getting an original OEM piece from a different steering column, still going strong. Those replecement cams are junk, IMO.

One other thing you might check first it the connection behind the driver side kick panel, there is a connection there that can get boogered up. Also make sure you have good CLEAN grounds at both lights in the back.
Thanks for the info ill look for oem one. Goin check fuse with reader then go from there thanks
 
Thanks for the info guys can't believe how fast I got answered. You guys are awsome thanks again once. I figer it out I'll post what it was. Thanks agin
 
The cancel cam is more or less the upper half of the switch. A lot of owners/service techs would replace only that. I always recommend replace the entire switch assembly. Even though it is a sitting in the drivers seat service, I don't want to do it again any time soon, my vehicle or customer pay.
A lot of the aftermarket switch assemblies and cams ( ebay offerings ) have proven to be junk. Those buyers bend and tweak on the tiny contact parts to make the electrical work only to have the mechanical hold on and cancel function fail a short time later.
Our member SlantSixDan can direct you toward a OEM quality switch.
 
WHON...........Go to MyMopar and this thread and download yourself a factory service manual, and also a "MyMopar" aftermarket wiring diagram. However use the factory manual diagram if possible, the aftermarket ones are somewhat simplified, and don't cover all details

MyMopar - Mopar Forums & Information - MyMopar Tools/Reference

............and

Free service manuals

TA------HOO........ get a meter and or a test lamp and make some checks. Access the turn signal switch connector coming out of the column. Look up the wire colors in your manual

Here, generally, are the inputs and outputs:

IN:

A...Brake light power coming FROM the brake light switch, usually white. This should be hot anytime the brake pedal is pressed

B...Flasher power from the turn signal flasher. This should be hot anytime the key is in "run" or "accessory"

C...Flasher power from the hazard flasher. Should be hot at all times

OUTPUTS

D...Left rear BOTH D and E should have power when the TS switch is centered and the break pedal depressed D should be flashing key on, lever to left turn

E....Right rear See "D" and also E should have power with key on and lever to turn right

F....Left front.........should flash key on, signal lever to left

G...Right front........should flash key on, signal lever to right

All 4, D, E, F, G should flash with hazard switch engaged, foot off brake, and turn signal switch centered

THA----REEEEEE......As mentioned above, it is IMPERITIVE that you learn to check fuses UNDER LOAD. This is because you can have loose/ corroded connections right at the fuse clip, or RIGHT IN the fuse. Sometimes a bad fuse/ connection will show "good" with the extremely low current it takes to activate a multimeter either volts or ohms, or even a 12V test lamp.

But when you hook up the load, which then pulls more current, that connection often fails. Therefore if you measure it UNDER THESE OPERATING CONDITIONS, the trouble will then show right up.

FFFFFFFOOOOOOOOUUUUURRRRRR

There's a chart in your service manual, right before the diagrams begin, showing what fuses power what. Brakes and hazard flashers should have power at all times.

Turn signals, only with key in run or accessory
 
Check the plug under the kick panel on driver side for power. That's where I would start.

If none of the blinkers work, you know that it's in the flasher or turn cancel assembly/power issue
 
That's not correct. rear left and right lamp wires are a green and a yellow on dang near every vehicle of the era including trailers. The brown wire is park lamps.
Manually operated signal switches have been failing to interrupt brake lamps for all those years too. A safety issue that DOT really should never have allowed but... it was what it was.
At 60 yrs old I can't recall when part stores had a signal switch in stock. Dealerships had them in most cases. I can recall when the nearest dealership was quite a journey.
So with power coming out on the white wire from closed brake lamp switch, signal switch centered, power should be coming back out on the green and the yellow. If not, what we would do is disconnect the signal switch connector and shove a shirt pin through white, green, and yellow, to temporary the brake lamp circuit and put the vehicle back in service until the replacement signal switch arrived.
Ahhh the good ol' days :)
 
Front signal wires are seperated from rear.They are different colour.
 
That's not correct. rear left and right lamp wires are a green and a yellow on dang near every vehicle of the era including trailers. The brown wire is park lamps.
Manually operated signal switches have been failing to interrupt brake lamps for all those years too. A safety issue that DOT really should never have allowed but... it was what it was.
At 60 yrs old I can't recall when part stores had a signal switch in stock. Dealerships had them in most cases. I can recall when the nearest dealership was quite a journey.
So with power coming out on the white wire from closed brake lamp switch, signal switch centered, power should be coming back out on the green and the yellow. If not, what we would do is disconnect the signal switch connector and shove a shirt pin through white, green, and yellow, to temporary the brake lamp circuit and put the vehicle back in service until the replacement signal switch arrived.
Ahhh the good ol' days :)

Also I managed to "fix" three cars, one of which was my own, IN THE EARLY SEVENTIES because the switch failed in the hazard contacts, which also caused the brake/ signal lamps not to work. I was able to jumper the switch somehow and ended up with the hazard switch non-functional, but had brake / signal lamps. Please don't ask how I did this, that was more than 40 years ago.
 
That's not correct. rear left and right lamp wires are a green and a yellow on dang near every vehicle of the era including trailers. The brown wire is park lamps.

Hmm, I've never actually tried the test procedure outlined by Mopar Action in the article. But the color codes at the connector seem to match my wiring diagram. Where did they go wrong?

switchwiring.jpg
 
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Hmm, I've never actually tried the test procedure outlined by Mopar Action in the article. But the color codes at the connector seem to match my wiring diagram. Where did they go wrong?

View attachment 1715123768
We have found errors in factory wiring diagrams but do tend to be more correct than aftermarket stuff. So I surely wouldn't trust the YearOne source. Hell, me on the internet is about as dependable as that.
I did say dang near every vehicle of the era. There were exceptions. Regardless of whats printed on paper by who, the color of the wires casing is no substitute for definitive proof. A test lamp should provide that in most cases but maybe not this one where a failed switch is involved.
Sooooo, lets proceed as if we were the U haul worker installing a trailer connector on vehicle. We'll go to the rear 1157 fixtures. The one of 3 colors common to both L&R is park lamp. The other 2 colors are L&R brake/turn. We can take that info and our temporary jumper to the cars wiring harness side of the signal switch connector under the column. Link L&R to what ever color is coming away from the brake lamp switch.
 
The high today is 30 so I got her out the garage. I did notice that the front blinkers light up but don't blink. I'm wait for it to warm up just a little bit before .I go back out side thanks for all the wireing info you guys are sure awesome for all the info. I will post more hopefully here after a bit been so cold here in kansas last few weeks.
 
Found the short feel stupid:BangHead: I didn't take the light cover off befour I made the post learnd alot. Guess I was lucky this time :thankyou: for all the info. The reverse light was corroded on the driver side. As soon as I removed it everthang start it working agin.:icon_fU:

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