Rewiring the race car.

Cope said

While I have the engine out I decided to remove the old crusty wire harness and do away with the bulkhead connection completely.

Now all my high amp draw circuits run off a bus bar and my low amp stuff runs off a 7 wire painless harness. I also moved everything off the fire wall and down to the passenger kick panel.

This is my first time trying something like this so I'm sure folks who do this stuff all the time can do better but I'm happy with the result.

Pic before I fused the high amp draw bus.

View attachment 1715128336

High amp bus block with fuses.

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I wish I had a true bus bar and not a home made one but it's what I had on hand and can easily be changed out later.

Thoughts?

Thanks for all the time and advice. With out this site my car would always be broken....

:)

Click to expand...

Looks OK, a couple of tips
1) I always heat shrink crimped or soldered connections, I believe it add a level of robustness to the joint.
I use the Marine heat shrink tubing, there is a sealing glue that bubbles out, for a water proof seal.
2) For my home wiring jobs I always do a pencil drawing identifying the circuit path, can be pretty crude and I file it away in a binder in the garage, saves much time a year from now if you are changing the circuit figuring out what is wired to what.
3) I also use wire number tape and give each wire a number code and that is used with the pencil drawing mentioned above again, big time saver when trouble shooting or revising the circuit. I number the wire at the buss bar or fuse then apply the same number to the wire at the component end of the wire,, alternator, electric fuel pump, light ,,,

here is an example of the number tape, can be found much cheaper at other internet sites
ScotchCode #0 - # 9 Wire Marker Tape Dispenser-STD-0-9X - The Home Depot