Which one? MSD AL6 or MSD AL6-2 for my stroker 418 (340)

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Shane pearce

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Hi Guys..

Just wondering which system to go with? is there a difference other than the Built-in 2-Step Rev Control lol!! I can get the AL6-2 a little cheaper be it only $5 difference but both on the shelf here in the UK and the Duster is a little tuned???
Sick of larking about with the crappy stock ignition, fitted a MSD Blaster 3 after running a Blaster 2 for 1000 miles but its back firing now and think its due to the stock Ballast restricting voltage? not sure why it does not effect the Blaster 2.. in fact went to refit the Blaster 2 today but the negative post connection is cracked so not happening.

Only really interested in these systems as we are very limited on whats available here in England.

it was a ex drag car in Orlando but now a road car and never see's the track, but only used on sunny days so not that often...
The engine was a 1971 340 block, now bored 40 over to 4.080,
Scat 9000 series 4" cast crankshaft,
ARP main bolts,
Scat H beam forged rods with ARP studs,
Icon (Keith Black) 744 forged flat top pistons with valve reliefs,
Hastings racing moly/ductile rings,
Clevite H racing rod bearings,
Clevite full groove main bearings,
Clevite cam bearings, rotating assembly fully balanced (Pistons, rods, crank, balancer, bearings, pins and flex plate)
Elgin high volume oil pump,
Hardened oil pump driveshaft,
Modified Moroso deep pan sump and high flow pickup.
Comp Cams XE274H cam. (242 duration @.50.492 lift)
Original 71 J heads 2.02 inlet valve, 1.60 exh, fully ported,
Exhaust valves, re seated,
Comp cams positive lock stem seals,
Mopar performance double valve springs,
Tungsten retainers 4 groove,
ARP head bolts,
Felpro 521 SD high performance head gaskets,
10.75:1 compression ratio,
Factory rocker arms and shafts, lifters and hardened pushrods,
Edelbrock Victor 340 single plane high rise drag inlet,
Holley 750 vs elec choke, 14"x 4"
Moroso carb spacer,
14” K&N air filter,
Mopar Performance cast ali valve covers,
High flow water pump,
160f thermostat,
Elec dist converted with modded weights and springs for advance curve,
MSD Blaster 3 coil,
ACCEL 300+ 8.8mm Ferro-Spiral Race wire set,
Holley blue high flow electric fuel pump with Holley regulator, (110 Gallons per hour)
 
Do you need the rev control? If you are 1/4 miling it a lot at the strip I'd consider it, especially with a 4 speed. Or if you can conceive of some current or future uses for it. $5 is not much. One possible downside is it's one more feature that could fail (KISS principle) in the future. If the Blaster 2 was getting it done why swap to the Blaster 3? The MSD is great because it gets rid of the ballast, but be prepared to go through caps and rotors quicker. That was my experience with an MSD 5 years ago on the street. Drilling vent holes in the cap helps to vent ionized air that tends to accelerate corrosion and deterioration of the cap contacts. Sounds like what you had with the Blaster 2 and whatever ECU/Dist combo was getting it done before. What makes you think the your previous set up had issues? Some gains in accuracy with a stock Distributor can be had by insuring the indexing/phasing of the rotor is correct in relation to everything else. Usually involves drilling holes a sacrificial cap so you can view the position of the rotor in relation to the plug wire terminal post when the distributor fires , checking it to see the rotor isn't too far away on either side of the post. Changing that involves custom reluctors with the roll pin slot drilled in different offset positions to allow changing that phasing.
 
I'd get the AL-2. I use my 2 step for my line lock.

Before you buy anything, ditch the ballast resistor. See if that helps
 
I am with Rocco. AL-2 rev control on burn outs. I don't run a ballast . My distributor is a moper performance electronic, nothing special, set all in at 2500rpm. MSD 6AL. I use the Pertronix Flame Thrower HV coil (60,00 Volts!). I run my spark plug gap at.050. It runs around 7000-7200 rpm through the 1/4 traps. It fires hot! Burns clean! Idles without loading up.
 
Do you have a fuel return line? If not, you need one. Dead heading that Holly pump will give it a short life. The holly regulator is junk. Get a good brand with the right amount of ports, and with a seperate port on it for your fuel pressure gauge. Mount the gauge on the cowell in front of you so you can see it. Not in the cabin. Not under the hood where you can't see it when your driving.
 
Aeromotives regulator and return line setup is the best I've seen. It's an all in one fuel log.
 
Do you have a fuel return line? If not, you need one. Dead heading that Holly pump will give it a short life. The holly regulator is junk. Get a good brand with the right amount of ports, and with a seperate port on it for your fuel pressure gauge. Mount the gauge on the cowell in front of you so you can see it. Not in the cabin. Not under the hood where you can't see it when your driving.
No I don't have a return line, its just what came out the box.. so they sell a set up thats going to fail?? is it really that important? I ask as got a tour racing alloy fuel cell so guess it would have to be totally removed, drained and drilled? and its behind rear seat under speaker shelf which is real tight..
 
So to update.. I got such a good deal on a lightly used MSD 6T 6400 I've gone with that, seems a good unit.. But then anything is better than the factory ECU and ballast I guess.... just been looking for a "How to" guide on totally removing the double (4 pin) ballast resistor but they all get confusing with people saying different things and either agreeing or disagreeing with previous posts.. so none the wiser to the correct way to do things, I could possibly figure it out but would rather get it right first time.

I've looked previous but had same issues as I've got a GM HEI module sat here too with the plan of removing the ballast.

So if anybody can reply that is running a HEI 4 PIN GM conversion it will stop ANOTHER HEI thread lol!! I figure I need to do this either way be it it MSD 6T or just the HEI
 
MSD has a pdf catalog online you can download that will show you how to wire just about any set up you can imagine. As far as the 4 pin ballast - a jumper wire between the female ends of the ballast connector that would connect across the top and that's it. The ballast is there to limit voltage to the coil and since the MSD typically does not reduce voltage to the coil the jumper does that. There are two styles of ballasts - a 2 pin goes with a factory ecu that uses only 4 of the 5 pin outs on the ecu. The 4 pin ballast and extra wiring is for use of a 5th pin on the factory ecu. For a 4 pin ballast connector set up using the msd you want to jump across the one ballast connector that has a loop to itself top and bottom, to the other ballast connector whose wire does NOT go to the 5th pin on the ecu.

http://documents.msdperformance.com/catalog_wiring_diagrams.pdf
 
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