‘70 Dodge Dart 318 Stock Intake Problem

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PikaPhantom

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Temp broke as I was installing it. Wondering how I would go about trying to get this off

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Its brass/soft. Easy out might grab it or might just chew/ream it. I would just drive a keen chisel through behind it. It'll split and curl up, and fall out. I've ground a few punches just for this kind of use. With care, damage to the cast iron threads is minimal.
 
Its brass/soft. Easy out might grab it or might just chew/ream it. I would just drive a keen chisel through behind it. It'll split and curl up, and fall out. I've ground a few punches just for this kind of use. With care, damage to the cast iron threads is minimal.
From where would you recommend chiseling from?
 
If it was me...

Jigsaw with a metal cutting blade, cut 4 equal distance grooves into the brass piece being very careful of the threads in the manifold, then use a small chisel and separate the 4 pieces. should just pop right out.
 
I would first try to back it out using long nosed pliers on the part viable from inside the water passage. You could also use a drill that is larger than the ID of the brass but smaller than the OD of the cast iron threads to thin the brass and then using a punch or even a small screw driver between the cast iron and the brass try to bend the brass in on its self away from the cast iron. Good luck.
 
An EZ out, the correct size, would be your best bet with almost no damage to manifold threads. An ez out set is a required tool for us backyard mechanics.
 
I would try an EZ out first. If that doesnt work try turning it in from the inside with a pair of vise grip needle nose pliers.
 
I would choose a drill bit JUST smaller than the diameter of those 1/8" pipe threads. Drill through the brass. What's left you can dig out with a pick and remove it like a coiled spring. You will very likely break an ease out off as all they do is expand what you screw them into. They are only made for very low torque applications for that reason. What you have is a tapered pipe thread. It will not come out easily, I don't believe. I stopped using ease outs probably 25 years ago. They are worthless.
 
Temp broke as I was installing it. Wondering how I would go about trying to get this off

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Had 2 of these issues. Using the correct drill for a 1/8" pipe tap (usually stamped on the tap) center drill all the way through. Retap the resulting hole to 1/8"pipe. The flutes of the tap should push the remaining brass through the hole. Check your depth so the sender will fit when tight just above the surface of the boss cast into the manifold...
Take your time, do it right...
Terry
 
Drill it out, heat the brass with a torch let it melt out.
Run a tap thru the hole, easy fix.
 
Drill it out, heat the brass with a torch let it melt out.
Run a tap thru the hole, easy fix.

AND NOW ANOTHER STORY from the old days

In the early 70's, stationed at NAS Miramar (ETR-2, GCA RADAR tech) I also had a part time job at the station auto hobby shop. One day "a pair" came in, they had stripped one hole in the fuel pump boss of a Falcoon, then broke off easy out, drill bit, etc etc in there

Ask me "how?"

Bla bla bla

And one thing I mentioned is that IF YOU CAN FIND a guy who is GOOD WITH A TORCH you can blow it out of the (cast iron) block chase the threads and you are done.

So they came back in, turns out THEY had gone to the tool room, checked out the torch outfit AND THEN HALF MELTED THE DAMN MOUNTING for the fuel pump

And now they are "mad" and they want to know "whut?"

I told them "If you are lucky" you could get a block off plate and pump it full of silcone, install an electric pump, and then let it cure for a couple of days
 
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