Cuda is home from paint

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Darren

Darren

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Hey guys .. after a nervous few months I got the Barracuda back home from paint. It is not 100% perfect, but she will be a driver, and as of now I am happy. Considering everything. The pictures are not the best but I will post them and I have a few questions for you body guys.
Thanks

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I know what you mean about wanting it perfect. But it looks great to us, so enjoy putting it together and remember coming from the factory they weren't perfect!
 
The car was painted aprox 2-3 weeks ago in a garage, the painter said he wet sanded and polished it with a 3 step compound. He told me to put the car together then in the spring drop it off to his place and he will give it a final polish / wax. There are a few dull spots (that he told me to expect ). My question is, If I went ahead and did a buff now, what products do I use? I have a variable speed 7" buffer. I feel it would be better to do it now without the trim, handles ect on car. Thanks for any advice ..
 
Darren said:
The car was painted aprox 2-3 weeks ago in a garage, the painter said he wet sanded and polished it with a 3 step compound. He told me to put the car together then in the spring drop it off to his place and he will give it a final polish / wax. There are a few dull spots (that he told me to expect ). My question is, If I went ahead and did a buff now, what products do I use? I have a variable speed 7" buffer. I feel it would be better to do it now without the trim, handles ect on car. Thanks for any advice ..
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Let him do it. It will be fine.
 
Darren said:
The car was painted aprox 2-3 weeks ago in a garage, the painter said he wet sanded and polished it with a 3 step compound. He told me to put the car together then in the spring drop it off to his place and he will give it a final polish / wax. There are a few dull spots (that he told me to expect ). My question is, If I went ahead and did a buff now, what products do I use? I have a variable speed 7" buffer. I feel it would be better to do it now without the trim, handles ect on car. Thanks for any advice ..
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My 66 Barracuda was painted in October. the guy told me same thing. The shop is a nightmare and I'm afraid my car will be stuck there if I take it back. I plan on drinking some liquid elbow grease and hand buffing for the finale. I'm thinking it doesn't take much and I fear burning through the clearcoat with a power buffer.
 
Bodyperson said:
Let him do it. It will be fine.
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Yes he probably will be doing it. I am just thinking he might get busy with another car or whatnot.. but the guy seams like a good guy .Can you explain the process and products because I will be responsible for purchasing. . Thanks for the advice
 
Use the blue masking tape, soft rags and even a chamois to protect the paint while you reinstall everything. Take your time and watch closely for any sharp edges as you bring parts into final position. If you can, get a helper for the larger parts.

Take the time to clean, polish and repaint your hardware before installing it.

The longer the paint cures/dries before finish buffing the better your end result. All paint and body filler shrinks to some degree over time.
 
Darren said:
Yes he probably will be doing it. I am just thinking he might get busy with another car or whatnot.. but the guy seams like a good guy .Can you explain the process and products because I will be responsible for purchasing. . Thanks for the advice
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There are several different products and methods to sanding an polishing paint. It seems like it is always evolving too. I'm always looking at new products. Here is the total procedure in a nutshell.
1: color sand (remove all defects and orange peel with 600-1000 grit sandpaper.
2: 1500 sandpaper to remove 1000 grit scratches. ALL OF THEM.
3: 2000 sandpaper to remove 1500 grit scratches ALL OF THEM.
4: 3000 sandpaper to remove 2000 grit scratches. You can actually start using a buffing compound on a rotary buffer with a wool pad at 2000 or you can continue up to 5000 grit sandpaper.
5:When you are happy and it looks shiny, you start polishing with an orbital buffer with finer grit polish.
6: Use a another polishing pad and a swirl remover using a sun light to check and make sure there are no halos or "ghosts" Ghost and halos are areas that need more buffing and still show un-buffed areas.

Like I said, "in a nut shell". Different people use different methods and products. They all seem to work.
The trick is to NOT skip a step and NOT completing a step and having to go backwards.
 
Bodyperson said:
There are several different products and methods to sanding an polishing paint. It seems like it is always evolving too. I'm always looking at new products. Here is the total procedure in a nutshell.
1: color sand (remove all defects and orange peel with 600-1000 grit sandpaper.
2: 1500 sandpaper to remove 1000 grit scratches. ALL OF THEM.
3: 2000 sandpaper to remove 1500 grit scratches ALL OF THEM.
4: 3000 sandpaper to remove 2000 grit scratches. You can actually start using a buffing compound on a rotary buffer with a wool pad at 2000 or you can continue up to 5000 grit sandpaper.
5:When you are happy and it looks shiny, you start polishing with an orbital buffer with finer grit polish.
6: Use a another polishing pad and a swirl remover using a sun light to check and make sure there are no halos or "ghosts" Ghost and halos are areas that need more buffing and still show un-buffed areas.

Like I said, "in a nut shell". Different people use different methods and products. They all seem to work.
The trick is to NOT skip a step and NOT completing a step and having to go backwards.
Click to expand...
Thank you for the info.. well said.. I think I will start assembling the car for now then see what the painter schedule is like in a few months. .
 
Darren said:
Thank you for the info.. well said.. I think I will start assembling the car for now then see what the painter schedule is like in a few months. .
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I like to do a final polish after assembly too. I know some spots still need attention but the assembly process will generate some scuffs. Just your rough hands will scratch a show finish and to be frank, I'm just really tired of working on your car by then and could use a break. That break will let me have some more patience with the final polish.:thumbsup: Your car is gonna be awesome.
 
Looks really great. Love the color. Congratulations on your progress
 
Hey guys thanks for all the compliments. Well today I found another potential problem. I went around the car with a very good spot light and noticed a area the painter missed, there is a possibility he thought the rear bumper would of hid it, but as we know the barracuda bumpers are very thin. I will be hopefully be talking to the painter this weekend. I will post some pictures and tell me what you guys think. I wish it was only the rear valance but as you can see it is under the taillights too (i marked areas with orange X's ) Is this just a matter of blowing it in? Or something more serious? The paint is base / clear.
Thanks for any advice.

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I didn’t follow closely on what paint you used but if it was a base/ clear then your painter will be able to remedy that fairly easily for you and you will not be able to tell.
 
toplscuda said:
I didn’t follow closely on what paint you used but if it was a base/ clear then your painter will be able to remedy that fairly easily for you and you will not be able to tell.
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Yes it was base / clear used on the car. He did tell me if I found any problems he could fix them in the spring when he does the final buff.
 
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