Centering rear wheels in opening.

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prorac1

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On our 1963 valiant project, we are planing on getting the offset spring hangers to get some extra room on the inside of the tire.

I can't find anybody that makes offset spring hangers to move the axle back 1 1/2 inches.

Is this something we're going to have to fabricate? Because that will work also.

Thanks. Eric and Jason.
 
And. In addition.

I'm wondering if anybody has ever "made" their own off set front hangers?

It almost looks like we could drill and sleeve a hole through the frame rail in order to slide the bolt through the spring, and slam the front spring hanger against the frame and redrill the 4 mounting holes.
 
If you move the front perches back, then you will also have to move the rear shackles back, and probably re-engineer the working angle. I assume you know that.
1.5 inches is a looong way to go.
I'm not into the Mopar scene that deep, but I have never seen what you are looking for,either. .......................Someone might suggest moving the axle back on the springs, but would destroy the way they work. It seems to work OK for up to .5 inch, ( the most I have heard of), but 1.5 is a loooong ways
And yes, I have seen custom hangers right here on FABO.
And I guess if you put the springs into the frame rails, the problem is solved. They do make kits for that.

And yes, I have also seen that video where the car loses it's entire rear end as the car continues to bounce over it. The video appears to be at a slower speed, maybe 35/40ish mph. But think how dangerous that would be at other speeds. Point is I'm no welder, so I wouldn't try it.
Happy HotRodding
 
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There are a few folks making Altered WheelBase cars (AWB) for drag racing Like the factory did in the mid 1960s. There's a guy in the Seattle area that has done several and put them on the street, so somebody has solved this before and figured out how not to kill themselves. Sounds worth your time to find them!!!
 
If you move the front perches back, then you will also have to move the rear shackles back, and probably re-engineer the working angle. I assume you know that.
1.5 inches is a looong way to go.
I'm not into the Mopar scene that deep, but I have never seen what you are looking for,either. .......................Someone might suggest moving the axle back on the springs, but would destroy the way they work. It seems to work OK for up to .5 inch, ( the most I have heard of), but 1.5 is a loooong ways
And yes, I have seen custom hangers right here on FABO.
And I guess if you put the springs into the frame rails, the problem is solved. They do make kits for that.

And yes, I have also seen that video where the car loses it's entire rear end as the car continues to bounce over it. The video appears to be at a slower speed, maybe 35/40ish mph. But think how dangerous that would be at other speeds. Point is I'm no welder, so I wouldn't try it.
Happy HotRodding
It depends how far you move the front hangers back. The shackles are a swinging arm and moving the springs back a half to a inch is no different than leaf springs sagging after a decade or two. Think about it!
 
Yeah. Looking at pictures of the car I guess I overshot the amount we would need. Lol.

1/2"-3/4" is probably a better ball park.

I think a spacer and longer bolts would get the job done.
 
We thought about putting the springs under the frame, but that isn't really nescessary since we're not moving the wheel tubs, and it pretty much destroys any chance of tail pipes with factory tank.

I would like to try moving the front spring mounts against the frame though. I think that might work, and save us a bunch on front offset shackles. Than we would just have to buy the rears.

Thanks for all the help. Eric and a Jason.
 
We thought about putting the springs under the frame, but that isn't really nescessary since we're not moving the wheel tubs, and it pretty much destroys any chance of tail pipes with factory tank.

I would like to try moving the front spring mounts against the frame though. I think that might work, and save us a bunch on front offset shackles. Than we would just have to buy the rears.

Thanks for all the help. Eric and a Jason.
the more u move it back, the less weight is on the rear tires too. u also will pull driveshaft out as much as u move the rear.
 
It actually works out good for the driveshaft. We need to shorten it about an inch for the new axle we're putting under the car.
 
I moved my front and rear against the frame rails, moved the spring perches in. I made doubler plates with new longer studs and used the existing mount holes up front. Also moved the rearend back by relocating the center perch hole. Watch for clearance from the rear housing to gas tank. Also the rear shock lower mount is moving aft.
 
I moved my front and rear against the frame rails, moved the spring perches in. I made doubler plates with new longer studs and used the existing mount holes up front. Also moved the rearend back by relocating the center perch hole. Watch for clearance from the rear housing to gas tank. Also the rear shock lower mount is moving aft.

Thank you. Any pics of the doubler plates?

How exactly did you jog the rear shackles over.

Thanks. Eric
 
Thank you. Any pics of the doubler plates?

How exactly did you jog the rear shackles over.

Thanks. Eric
no pics. I'll take some and post them in the next few days. On the rear shackle I was able to use one existing hole by swapping the left and right bracket and used a heavy duty thread nut insert on the other.
 
That sounds like a lot of work when you can get a mopar kit to move the springs inboard 3/4 inch per side, then use the spacers behind the front mounts when you put it together... just sayin'...
 
That sounds like a lot of work when you can get a mopar kit to move the springs inboard 3/4 inch per side, then use the spacers behind the front mounts when you put it together... just sayin'...

That's my go to plan. Using the Dr Diff kit. Just seeing what other ideas were out there before we get to that point.

Below is a picture of the 8.8 axle mocked up in the car. It dosent have to move back near as far as I was thinking in my head initially.


IMG_3511.PNG
 
That's my go to plan. Using the Dr Diff kit. Just seeing what other ideas were out there before we get to that point.

Below is a picture of the 8.8 axle mocked up in the car. It dosent have to move back near as far as I was thinking in my head initially.


View attachment 1715132175
I have moved the axle back by using the perches that have 3 locator holes, just set up on spring bolt on the front hole for approximate 1 inch rearward location. The bottom plates need modified to center on bottom of springs for u bolt installation and proper shock mount clearance. I have also fabbed inboard front hangers by welding a mounting plate offset on the spring hanger then drilling holes for studs. I have pictures somewhere on this sight from last year, I will look for them and post if I find them.
 
I have moved the axle back by using the perches that have 3 locator holes, just set up on spring bolt on the front hole for approximate 1 inch rearward location. The bottom plates need modified to center on bottom of springs for u bolt installation and proper shock mount clearance. I have also fabbed inboard front hangers by welding a mounting plate offset on the spring hanger then drilling holes for studs. I have pictures somewhere on this sight from last year, I will look for them and post if I find them.

5F4977CA-00B5-4D31-9C0D-648AAB457621.jpeg


CA75985C-1B77-49E9-80DB-745FABDA92A2.jpeg
 
I guess I don't understand where that mount gets the extra length from.

It looks like the factory shackle?

What is it off of?

I'm assuming the spring eye hole is further back?

Thanks. Eric
 
I have moved the axle back by using the perches that have 3 locator holes, just set up on spring bolt on the front hole for approximate 1 inch rearward location. The bottom plates need modified to center on bottom of springs for u bolt installation and proper shock mount clearance. I have also fabbed inboard front hangers by welding a mounting plate offset on the spring hanger then drilling holes for studs. I have pictures somewhere on this sight from last year, I will look for them and post if I find them.

And why do you need to modify the bottom plate to install the u bolts?

Thanks again. Eric
 
The hanger does not add length, it is modified for offset. The spring perch locator moves the axle back. The bottom plate needs the locator hole offset to allow the ubolts to properly align.
 
The hanger does not add length, it is modified for offset. The spring perch locator moves the axle back. The bottom plate needs the locator hole offset to allow the ubolts to properly align.

Ok. I'm following you now. What did you do to the frame to gain access to the spring eye nut/bolt.

I was thinking of drilling a hole in the frame big enough to slide the bolt through and sleeving it to add strength.
 
Ok. I'm following you now. What did you do to the frame to gain access to the spring eye nut/bolt.

I was thinking of drilling a hole in the frame big enough to slide the bolt through and sleeving it to add strength.
I welded the nut to the hanger, this allows it to slip into the hole I put in the frame and be able to tighten the bolt.
 
On our 1963 valiant project, we are planing on getting the offset spring hangers to get some extra room on the inside of the tire.

I can't find anybody that makes offset spring hangers to move the axle back 1 1/2 inches.

Is this something we're going to have to fabricate? Because that will work also.

Thanks. Eric and Jason.


if the 63 is the same as a 65, your going to hit the fuel tank with your diff. I run an 8.75 and the thing is almost rubbing the tank as it is.
 
if the 63 is the same as a 65, your going to hit the fuel tank with your diff. I run an 8.75 and the thing is almost rubbing the tank as it is.

That's a good point. I haven't had the fuel tank installed since we did the 8.8 swap. Who knows what the clerance will be to that thing. Thank Pishta.
 
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