control arm stiffners

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Mopar Tim

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Ordering these,
F142744102.jpg

question is, why are there two different shaped plates? Should be the same.
 
I ordered mine from PST and they both looked like the plate on the bottom. Went on real nice and easy.
Bob
That is where I am ordering from, strange picture showing two different...
 
Another question, does anyone make weld on anti sway bar mounts?
 
The bottom plate is for the all A Bodies and 1962-72 B bodies and 1970-74 E Bodies. The one above that is for the later 1973-79 B Bodies

Thanks
Jame From
 
The difference in the picture is that one on the bottom is for an A body LCA and the top one is for 73-79 B body, at least according to their catalog. I have a set of A body ones but I have not yet installed them. It will happen when I replace the bushings
 
Do these work well when installed. I've replaced everything but torsion bars and will be replacing rubber on those after I get my motor finished. If like to stiffen the ride up a bit better
 
Do these work well when installed. I've replaced everything but torsion bars and will be replacing rubber on those after I get my motor finished. If like to stiffen the ride up a bit better


It takes a lot of the slop out of the torsion bar adjusters.

image.jpeg
 
Do these work well when installed. I've replaced everything but torsion bars and will be replacing rubber on those after I get my motor finished. If like to stiffen the ride up a bit better

They work great. Take a look at this video for what to look for when installing them. If done right they'll take a lot of flex out of the arms, and clean up a lot of slop at the torsion bar socket.

Video by member @Jim Lusk
 
So you just weld that plate onto the torsion bar to reduce flexing? Do i should be able to get a flat piece of metal cut it and weld it on. Are the holes in the metal needed for access?
 
So you just weld that plate onto the torsion bar to reduce flexing? Do i should be able to get a flat piece of metal cut it and weld it on. Are the holes in the metal needed for access?

You don't weld ANYTHING to the torsion bar. Just the plate on the bottom of the LCA.

And yes, you can use any kind of metal, you can make your own plates. Really you don't need a plate that runs the length of the LCA, just a few straps or bars that connect the open bottom of the LCA. You can't weld a solid plate on though, because you need access to the torsion bar adjusters.

The video covers everything, and explains the process very well.
 
Just gone done watching it. Thank you
 
One of our great members here, and I'm embarrassed I cannot think of his name, has videos on YouTube how to do this yourself

LOL turns out the senior moment was short lived. Lusk............Jim Lusk

Jim Lusk

 
I dont see the reason to keep the torsion bar socket tight, no slop. When you tighten up the adjusters, all movement is gone. Wont move. I can see the stiffening benefit..
 
I dont see the reason to keep the torsion bar socket tight, no slop. When you tighten up the adjusters, all movement is gone. Wont move. I can see the stiffening benefit..
I’m guessing the benefit of taking the slip out of the socket is that once the LCA is bolted in place, it’s true that the socket can’t move but if there’s slop there, the LCA can move on the socket.
 
I’m guessing the benefit of taking the slip out of the socket is that once the LCA is bolted in place, it’s true that the socket can’t move but if there’s slop there, the LCA can move on the socket.

Exactly!

Yeah, with weight on the adjusters the socket and LCA shouldn’t move independently as a whole assembly. But, the slop around that socket is space for the LCA to flex into or around on. The less space there is, the less room there is for twist/flex/deformation.

That’s not something you’ll notice driving around on bias ply’s, which is why the factory wasn’t too concerned about it. But slap some big wide modern radials with a 200 treadwear compound and 300 in/lb torsion bars and you’ll find all kinds of things get flexy.
 
Exactly!

Yeah, with weight on the adjusters the socket and LCA shouldn’t move independently as a whole assembly. But, the slop around that socket is space for the LCA to flex into or around on. The less space there is, the less room there is for twist/flex/deformation.

That’s not something you’ll notice driving around on bias ply’s, which is why the factory wasn’t too concerned about it. But slap some big wide modern radials with a 200 treadwear compound and 300 in/lb torsion bars and you’ll find all kinds of things get flexy.
Food for thought....Thanks....Purchased this kit, thanks all....
 
You don't weld ANYTHING to the torsion bar. Just the plate on the bottom of the LCA.

And yes, you can use any kind of metal, you can make your own plates. Really you don't need a plate that runs the length of the LCA, just a few straps or bars that connect the open bottom of the LCA. You can't weld a solid plate on though, because you need access to the torsion bar adjusters.

The video covers everything, and explains the process very well.

A couple straps would probably work good too.
Mancini Racing has the plates for $21.95.
 
Tim.
Those are 66-69 B Body tabs.
Most likely buying them from Hotchkis.
They aren't for 65-72 A body cars.
Save your money, not for your A body.
B body tabs mount on the top of the arm, and the shock absorber bolt goes through it.
A body tabs, mount on the bottom of the LCA.
 
Tim.
Those are 66-69 B Body tabs.
Most likely buying them from Hotchkis.
They aren't for 65-72 A body cars.
Save your money, not for your A body.
B body tabs mount on the top of the arm, and the shock absorber bolt goes through it.
A body tabs, mount on the bottom of the LCA.
Thanks again.....
 
Tim.
Thinking this over for a bit, i guess one could use 66-69 B Body sway bar mounts tabs, as the proper factory style 65-72 A body mount tabs aren't repoped.
One would have to weld the B body ones, onto the LCA, onto the top of the arm, and hook up the end links of the sway bar, to that mount.
Now all this is for a factory sway bar.
Don't personally know about aftermarket bars in their style, or manufacturer, in how they mount them onto the LCA.
Using the factory mount locations, or their own designed custom mounts, for their bar.
Are you intending to use, a Factory sway bar?
 
Tim.
Thinking this over for a bit, i guess one could use 66-69 B Body sway bar mounts tabs, as the proper factory style 65-72 A body mount tabs aren't repoped.
One would have to weld the B body ones, onto the LCA, onto the top of the arm, and hook up the end links of the sway bar, to that mount.
Now all this is for a factory sway bar.
Don't personally know about aftermarket bars in their style, or manufacturer, in how they mount them onto the LCA.
Using the factory mount locations, or their own designed custom mounts, for their bar.
Are you intending to use, a Factory sway bar?
Was not, this one. I was hopin gto stat away from the shock mounted bracket
Hellwig 55917 Tubular Sway Bar Fits 67 72 Barracuda Dart Duster Scamp | eBay
With possibly these end linkshttps://www.ebay.com/itm/Spherical-Front-Sway-Bar-End-Links-1965-1972-Mopar-A-Body/271673489382?s
 
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