'fleet/taxi' wiring bypass diagram.

OK,

Says cut and tape on the schematic.

The 6ga wire to the ammeter stud is a blessing and a curse. Great for capacity! If the ammeter ever shorts out, you have a HUGE wire feeding that dead short with NOTHING to stop it. If you have huge amp draws inside the car, and it's fairly clear that OEM wiring doesn't matter, run a dedicated circuit to feed those loads. Using what the factory did back then seems a little old school when there are better more current approaches available.

I see you wonder why a 6ga feeding the ammeter and a 16ga from ammeter to starter relay. Think about the possible repercussions from that. None of them are good!

This upgrade is not all it's cracked up to be, it's the factory attempting a band aid fix too the horrible charging system design. There are bad things that can happen, especially with the factory ammeter in place. Many disagree with that viewpoint, yet I've never seen a disconnected ammeter ever catch on fire!

The Mad approach, even though not my preferred method, is better than the fleet one.

I won't rain on the parade from here on out.
Fair enough. A matter of curiousity as to what was done by the factory.

Several differences mean that its not appropriate to directly translate that 65amp alt '72 Satellite wiring to a '67 Barracuda, Dart or Valiant. It appears we are looking at an option group that includes an perhaps an optional electric fuel pump and other electric powered accessories. That said, I'll give it a shot.

1) The gauge changes for the A1 wire (fusible link notwithstanding)

A1-10 R carries the current to the main splice (distribution point) for all the normal systems. 10 gage was considered plenty for power demands of a fully optioned B-body.
Presumably its 10 gage on both sides of the bulkhead connector.
R6C-6 BK may be larger to minimize losses oever the distance, especially in the hot engine compartment. In addition to the power needs tied to the main splice, at times it will have to recharge the battery. Therefore a larger size makes sense.

2) The 16ga size of A1A wire (starter relay to red terminal on the ammeter)

In a normal use, the wire only carries current to recharge the battery. As long as the battery is not run down, its not alot of current. That's the thinking anyway...
When starting, power will go through the other way, but again, its not a lot. It will be the amount needed by the ignition and the starter relay - maybe 5 amps.
Protection has been moved to the battery side of the starter relay. It doesn't say what size that fusible link was, but since the relay draws a fair amount of power, it wouldn't surpise me if it was 2 sizes smaller than the 10 gage, rather than the 16 gage. My guess is that the 16 gage line to the ammeter also had a fusible link even this diagram doesn't show it.

3) The terminal block where the 6ga R6C wire from the alt splits to A1 and R6B. I've found a p/n 1842267 which I think is the terminal block for the L/N 65 amp alt (not sure if a must have).

I'm with Rob, I don't see the reason for replicating this system, unless you are recreating a '72 taxi or ? with the same options. It's interesting to study to better understand the strategy and borrow ideas as appropriate.

In dark red is the power flow when the engine is running and the battery is charging (dashed lines) with the setup as shown.

View attachment 1715134494

My guess is the terminal block represents a further modification of the bulkhead bypass (wires through grommet).

The next diagram shows the powerflow if the wires were not cut and no power went through the bulkhead connector. However if the bulkhead connection was there, along with the bypass, it would work pretty much same except the power would divide along the paths the paths of least resistance. Without knowing where the A1 line from the ammeter goes, its impossible to guess whether there is current in it....
View attachment 1715134495

edit: Perhaps the dashed A1-12R was a way to partially bypass the ammeter during start up? or engine off? Maybe for an electric fuel pump, or two way radio?
These drawings can be a little confusing. The dashed lines indicate the "normal" wiring paths. The "cut and tape" indicates there isn't a big loop through both the ammeter and big splice. The normal loop also has everything going through the bulkhead connector.

In the 65 amp alt configuration R6B and A1A go through a separate grommeted firewall hole, terminate at the ammeter and do not pass go or go through the infamous "big splice". The big splice gets power from the A1 wire though the bulkhead and is somewhat isolated. The At least that's how I'm deciphering it and how I've read it described by many others. 'Til I saw this diagram it didn't make sense.

As far as the comments, they're ALL helpful. Heck, just got Rob's madelectrical bypass cable this week. Yeah, I'm covering all my bets. Just got my new repop cabin-side bulkhead connector, so its in my near future. Cheers!