Broken vacuum nipple Holley 1850 metering block

Any bright ideas on how to remove this? Are they pressed in? The one I’ve got broke off flush to the black.

Thanks,

Jake

Can you post a picture of the carb?

Yeah. I’ve screwed a quality sheetmetal screw in and popped them out with a slide hammer. Wrapped the block well and put it in the vice. It doesn’t take much at all. Carb was shipped to me and it got damaged in shipping.

I had the same thing on my six pack. I drilled out the remainder, bent a another tube using brake line and epoxied it into the metering block. Verified that I didn't block the hole with epoxy and hooked it up. With the hose installed, you couldn't tell.

Mike 340 said:

Can you post a picture of the carb?

Click to expand...

Yup.

Jake

Yep, exactly what happened to my metering block.

xLURKxDOGx said:

Any bright ideas on how to remove this? Are they pressed in? The one I’ve got broke off flush to the black.

Thanks,

Jake

Click to expand...

Hello to all new here can help with this question .yes they are pressed in they have a special glue and the end that goes in to the block is slightly wider this is why they need drilled out ..once these tubes are pressed in they are heated to seal them.but caution must be taken when doing so or the whole project will be scrapped..for race projects i block this because most of these dont go anywhere its a closed vacuum port .but for stock apps its needed for other things to work..if you already have this tube out and everything is ok then cool ...if not then this is what i would do...after you take the metering block off. (Course youll need new gaskets .metering block gaskets can be bought through holley .car quest.auto zone etc.).So take and leave the old gaskets on then place into a shop rag or towel and put in your vise making sure its in there firmly .also looking up at you .the ideal set up would be a drill press but not everyone has this fancy item.take a drill bit smaller then tube see how far it goes before bottoming out.i use thread or dental floss to wrap around bit so to tell me how far.this way when im pressing new tube in i dont go to far.with a tap ih a fine thread count tap the hole making sure you have a screw that fits tap.note dont thread the hole tube thread about a 1/4 so when screw stops,and you tighten just alil more it will start to stretch old tube .now with alil heat to srew and a small claw hammer and a piece of wood remove screw should slide right out,be paitent it will come out if it doesnt then it will need drilled out.after its removed clean out with carb spray,and blow out with compressed air.reinsert new tube i use alil indian gasket sealant on tube going in block to help seal it.hope this helped....Dennis "carb".

My name is Dennis I own Dennis "carb" ive been doing this since 1996. Most of the carbs i rebuild or restore are for you fans of keeping it original...but im still learning.trying to afford to get the last thing in my work shop is a zinc plating and dichromate tanks then the skies the limit...no i have no website yet.if yall want pics or videos i have plenty.im what they say old school word of mouth ..do have about 300 accounts from a to z i dont rebuild motor cycle carbs or your lawn mowers ......most rebuilds are 60.bucks plus kit and anyother parts that need attention.most rebuilds come with a 3yr warranty.i do not pay for shipping as this is usually higher then the rebuild.rebuild warrenty covers all internal parts whatevers in kit.if its a restoration then it has a life time warrenty.its much higher then a rebuild cause some of these carb dont have kits.or parts so i have to find a part out carb.to steel parts from.or rebuild from.but any advise is always free.