I try to but sometimes it's difficult; I recently started working as a driver for Lyft (one of the ride-sharing companies, like Uber) and I commonly have to make fairly tight U-turns when I get a ride request. I think I will try to "replicate" the issue with the front of the car on jackstands (supporting the front suspension, not from the "frame") by running the car up to a low speed and working the steering from one end to the other; hopefully I will be able to see how far the CV actually flexes and at which point I should stop turning. Also my younger brother shares the car with me and he's not "mechanically inclined" by any means, he can turn a wrench if I give him detailed instructions but he has no interest in cars like I do; I'll have to be very specific about how to NOT turn the wheel all the way when making a tight turn. Maybe I'll just put some colored tape on the steering wheel to show when to stop turning, it would be much better just to add some kind of steering stops to the knuckles though.
Also I just looked through my personal car repair records and it turns out I replaced that CV axle exactly one year ago. I might still be able to get a replacement but again I'm not keen on replacing one junk part with the same exact thing and having it fail in a year again.
@Ddaddy it's a fairly commonly known design flaw of these cars, when I first got it I read some repair articles about it and didn't really believe it myself until this happened. The boot got a small tear no more than 1/4" long on the smaller-diameter part of one of the "bellows" on the boot, leading me to believe it did in fact get pinched between the internal parts of the CV joint... I have no idea how else it could have happened that way. The car has never been towed since we got it 2 years ago.
