Never in my life would I have thought it would come to this

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But there is no way in hell Im gonna get *** raped on a 8 3/4 for my car just cause someone can so Im thinking of getting my tire and wheel package stuffed under my dart and going with a ford 8 or 9 inch custom width.

It seems that I can ( possibly ) build it for 1/2 the money and have just as strong of a rear end if not stronger.

Its not about the money So much but of course Im considering that but its more about guys that have ruined the hobby by their greed. Whatveer happened to fellows being fair with fellows just cause they wanted to see another car saved?

I buy alot of antiques, it used to be fun walking into a store and finding that gem I had when I was a kid, those days are over.

Anyway any good pointers tips welcome, any negative remarks will be ignored. Thanks
 
Can't beat a 9" Ford. I put one with disc brakes in my Brand-X car. Make sure you get the nodular 3rd member with big bearings. The grey iron one is pretty weak. It is nice to be able to do a custom width to tuck the tires where you want them. I did 31 spline Moser axles which are probably not enough for my current power level.

Any reason why you don't get a Dana 60 out of a truck and narrow it? We ran 8.50's for YEARS before it finally failed and we had to go to a fabricated 9 inch.
 
But there is no way in hell Im gonna get *** raped on a 8 3/4 for my car just cause someone can so Im thinking of getting my tire and wheel package stuffed under my dart and going with a ford 8 or 9 inch custom width.

It seems that I can ( possibly ) build it for 1/2 the money and have just as strong of a rear end if not stronger.

I built my 8 3/4 in my car for a shade under 600 bucks. That included the purchase of the rear, a clutch type suregrip unit and new Richmond 3:55's (489 housing), new bearings and seals throughout, all new brake hardware.

It took some patience to collect the parts, but it's done.
 
But there is no way in hell Im gonna get *** raped on a 8 3/4 for my car just cause someone can so Im thinking of getting my tire and wheel package stuffed under my dart and going with a ford 8 or 9 inch custom width.

It seems that I can ( possibly ) build it for 1/2 the money and have just as strong of a rear end if not stronger.

Its not about the money So much but of course Im considering that but its more about guys that have ruined the hobby by their greed. Whatveer happened to fellows being fair with fellows just cause they wanted to see another car saved?

I buy alot of antiques, it used to be fun walking into a store and finding that gem I had when I was a kid, those days are over.

Anyway any good pointers tips welcome, any negative remarks will be ignored. Thanks
This is true, it`s a reality on this website. When I was buying and collecting parts for my 505" fastback, I could find better deals most always elsewhere. A lot of rape on here ! My last encounter was w/ elec. parts .
 
Would it be feasible to put a 9 inch Ram 1500 axle under it? There are plenty of them around and there pretty tough. You get the disc brakes too.
 
The Ford 8.8 rear is a cheaper alternative and it's been proven.

The 8.25 and 9.25 Chrysler rears seem to be a mystery for a lot of folks. Each can be built fairly in inexpensively, each avaible with disk brakes if you're so inclined (disk being "better" is another debate left for another thread) and each available easily enough from every "U Pull It" salvage yard from Dakotas and Durangos.
 
Ill give anyone here 600 bucks plus pay the freight for a 8 3/4 ( A-Body ) thats not junk but its gotta be a limited slip and not the style that cant be rebuilt
 
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Can't beat a 9" Ford. I put one with disc brakes in my Brand-X car. Make sure you get the nodular 3rd member with big bearings. The grey iron one is pretty weak. It is nice to be able to do a custom width to tuck the tires where you want them. I did 31 spline Moser axles which are probably not enough for my current power level.

Any reason why you don't get a Dana 60 out of a truck and narrow it? We ran 8.50's for YEARS before it finally failed and we had to go to a fabricated 9 inch.
Weight/overall size was my biggest reason and although I didnt mention it in my first post Im thinking that if I put the wheel tire combo under it I want and take my measurements Id almost be willing to be there would be a 9 inch under something factory stock that wouldnt have too be cut down or modded

I built my 8 3/4 in my car for a shade under 600 bucks. That included the purchase of the rear, a clutch type suregrip unit and new Richmond 3:55's (489 housing), new bearings and seals throughout, all new brake hardware.

It took some patience to collect the parts, but it's done.[/QUOTE See above, thanks

This is true, it`s a reality on this website. When I was buying and collecting parts for my 505" fastback, I could find better deals most always elsewhere. A lot of rape on here ! My last encounter was w/ elec. parts .
its not just here, E-bay has gone stupid and there are a handful of local guys that do only Mopar and they think they are on the quick retirement plan as well
Would it be feasible to put a 9 inch Ram 1500 axle under it? There are plenty of them around and there pretty tough. You get the disc brakes too.
Not sure?
this
i seen one 8 3/4 go for 100 bucks on here, within the last month
I missed it
The Ford 8.8 rear is a cheaper alternative and it's been proven.

The 8.25 and 9.25 Chrysler rears seem to be a mystery for a lot of folks. Each can be built fairly in inexpensively, each avaible with disk brakes if you're so inclined (disk being "better" is another debate left for another thread) and each available easily enough from every "U Pull It" salvage yard from Dakotas and Durangos.
I agree
 
People have the right to ask whatever they want for "their" stuff. That said, I agree some are way out of line.

Why not go for a Dana 60? That way, it's still "all Mopar", plus, you have a VERY popular rear axle. Of course, you'll need to cut it and get the perches in the right spot, but the initial purchase price very low. Mine was 100 bucks......and ended up being a Dana 70. LOL
 
You don't need to pay it plain and simple. Mopar people are finicky about branding but a younger will change that..... Pick your poison as to a different flavor. I have seen 8.8, 9", 12 bolt, etc go sub 1.30's and live well in 3k plus cars so you have options. Dana 60 is definitely a wow factor.

I prefer a 9" myself. Parts easily obtainable and priced within reason and if you need to service it on the bench she goes..... Deals can be had on the 8 3/4 but it's all about timing, position, and patience....
 
What car is this going in?

If you're going to shorten a 9", you might as well shorten a C body 8 3/4.

...or if you have a Duster, Dart Sport, or 67-69 Barracuda, drop in a 66/67 B body 8 3/4 with no mods.
 
I scored a couple of Linc Versaille (Ford 9 factory disk) but the caliper parts are rare. If I have to rebuild them I'll likely adapt some other calipers. Poontang axles are some of them same width, close enough to an A that wheel offset will easily compensate. Ferd axles are plentiful around here, most you see are out of pickups, and those would certainly be "doable."

Of course the Ferd pickup ones would have to be redrilled for the "smaller" 4.5" pattern LOL
 
I scored a couple of Linc Versaille (Ford 9 factory disk) but the caliper parts are rare. If I have to rebuild them I'll likely adapt some other calipers. Poontang axles are some of them same width, close enough to an A that wheel offset will easily compensate. Ferd axles are plentiful around here, most you see are out of pickups, and those would certainly be "doable."

Of course the Ferd pickup ones would have to be redrilled for the "smaller" 4.5" pattern LOL

I know a few Mustang guys who would kill for those Versailles rears.

If you kept the front suspension and disk set up you definitely have a small fortune since that's the preferred "factory" set up for Fords going back into the '50's.
 
Ill give anyone here 600 bucks plus pay the freight for a 8 3/4 ( A-Body ) thats not junk but its gotta be a limited slip and not the style that cant be rebuilt
Your missing out, the cone SG is fine on the street. When have you heard of someone HAVING to rebuild a clutch type for street use? Are you a drag racer? Then a SG is pointless when there are spools.
 
See LOTS of empty 8 3/4 for $150. Piece it together.
Freight for a loaded 8 3/4 will cost $600 at least......
 
To the that the complete A body rears were 400 about 7 years ago and now they are 1000 and up. Mopar brothers sure like to rape each other. It is actually starting to drive me back to playing with Chevy`s.
 
Your missing out, the cone SG is fine on the street. When have you heard of someone HAVING to rebuild a clutch type for street use? Are you a drag racer? Then a SG is pointless when there are spools.
On top of that, the cone style CAN be rebuild, with a little extra effort
 
Ill give anyone here 600 bucks plus pay the freight for a 8 3/4 ( A-Body ) thats not junk but its gotta be a limited slip and not the style that cant be rebuilt
What cracks Me up is how "expensive" this is viewed, yet guys have no problem out there spending $900-$1800 for an HP aftermarket Torsen or active clutch-style carrier
for a Mazda Miata, then buying gears, axles, and the bearings & install kits...............LOL! Yeah yeah, I know, I was there picking up SG 3.55 pigs & whole axles w/3.23 SG
in the mid '80's.........$35 for the former,$125 for the latter,.............those days are gone Bro..........You can still get lucky sometimes.....if You've got the time.........
 
If you think $1K is to much for a rear that is not junk (IMO bolt in), look up what the parts cost to renew a 8 3/4 today. Dr Diff sells good parts at good prices and it costs around $500 for bearings, seals, and clutch suregrip parts to go thru one. Tack on more $ if the ring and pinion need to be changed.
 
But there is no way in hell Im gonna get *** raped on a 8 3/4 for my car just cause someone can so Im thinking of getting my tire and wheel package stuffed under my dart and going with a ford 8 or 9 inch custom width.

Its not about the money So much but of course Im considering that but its more about guys that have ruined the hobby by their greed. Whatveer happened to fellows being fair with fellows just cause they wanted to see another car saved?


What about the guys who try to play to your good nature and give them a break on a part, just to find them selling it for full price soon after????

You try to help them out and they take advantage of you...

(Just pointing out the other side of the story...)
 
Find a Dana 60 3.54-4.10 sure grip/trac loc out of a late 60-70's Ford pick up.

Change side gears in diff section, get axles and have it shortened and housing ends put on it. Better rear and likely less $ than a comparable set up 8.75 rear.
 
If you're patient, you can find all of the parts for reasonable prices to put together a nice 8 3/4". So far, I have $600 into my latest build....

Housing....under a parts car I bought
Center...Dr Diff Auburn SG, 3:73, fresh and ready to go, $400 on CL
Axles....Yukon LBP, $150 on a FB Mopar site, almost brand new.

Just need brakes, and I probably doubled my money on the parts car in the first place!! It can still be done cheap, you just gotta be patient, and timely, and drop the cash when something comes up!
 
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