Tuning a hot rod isn't like tuning a stocker. Those numbers are starting points - to get the most out of it will require systematic testing - that's the tuning that has to be done with a hot rod.
Looking at your goals, and car specs, most important will be good torque in the street driving speeds. Not a lot of converter and turning an A/C, I just don't see looking for the slight gain in manifold pressure at top end - which yes, if taken advantage of, should yield slightly better mph in the 1/4 mile.
This is probably the best advice in your situation. Maybe the new phenolic Street Demon would be another good choice due to its fuel insulation (like a T-quad, but for your intake). I'd see what you can get out of your Eddy. You can tune the highway cruise vs. WOT with standard parts (rods and jets and springs) unlike the Holley which, if its off, will require drilling and tapping.
You should be able to remove the choke if you find it anoying. A lot of guys do that with Holleys too. I've got one in a ziplock right now. lol. One day it will go back on, but only after I get it tuned where I want.
Here's the direct link to the tuning manual for your 1406 (and family).
http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/misc/tech-center/dl/carb-owners-manual.pdf
The only thing in it that is misleading is the recommended AFRs. AFR needs are mostly related to load as shown
here. When you get your WBO2 setup, use it for reference rather than to target some AFR. The best AFRs are the ones that make the most power for least fuel. At the track, that will be the AFR gets the best mph. On the highway, light cruising, the leanest that doesn't surge.
Chrysler Carb booklets can be found here, starting in in 1966 will be good.
Master Technician Service Conference - Chrysler's Training for Mechanics
