Sound Deadening?

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GOT THE ANSWERS AND HELP I NEED ON THE SOUND DEADENING. THANKS TO ALL FOR THE HELP. Does anyone have any good recommendations on sound deadening? When i pulled my headliner out on my 65 Dart restoration, I noted a bit of surface rust under the glued on foam rubber the previous restoration used for insulation. Probably not the best product to use. Trapping condensation in the cold/warm difference could be a problem? Just asking about recommendations if any one can give me some advise on various products for those surfaces. As well, what to use in the door and rear seat area sides where the windows cranks down into. Thanks again for the help. Old Dart 66.
 
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I have been using roofing tape from HD, works fine and is way cheaper than Dynamat. Easier to put down also.
 
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Old Dart 66 said:
Does anyone have any good recommendations on sound deadening? When i pulled my headliner out on my 65 Dart restoration, I noted a bit of surface rust under the glued on foam rubber the previous restoration used for insulation. Probably not the best product to use. Trapping condensation in the cold/warm difference could be a problem? Just asking about recommendations if any one can give me some advise on various products for those surfaces. As well, what to use in the door and rear seat area sides where the windows cranks down into. Thanks again for the help. Old Dart 66.
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You can get the Dynamat Extreme for about half the list price with free shipping on Amazon, or use the roofing tape(as long as you don't live in the lower southwest = heat)

The double foil backed matting available from Speedway Motors is the second layer to install, and makes the greatest difference in both temperature and sound reduction. Use the wax paper backed foil tape designed for duct work to seal all the seams and edges. I cocooned my entire interior with both products and the results are nothing short of phenomenal.
 
I used thin moving blankets cut to shape and secured with spray 3M #90 high strength contact cement under and behind my rear seat as well as between the door panels and the door metal.
Then on the door panels that same material but with a sheet of plastic over the insulation material with the bottoms left unglued to weather proof them and allow breathing so it doesn't hold moisture.
So now the door panels have all the insulation and moisture barrier on them instead of attached to the body metal with that nasty black crap.:D

I also did the entire trunk with the same stuff. (not quite done with that yet) and moved the trunk light (6 LED strip) up behind the latch on the lid by threading the wiring through the trunk lid panels so the light not only lights the trunk, but around the rear of the car on the ground.
No wires showing because they come out the same place as the hinge arm and follow the arm down.

12 of these blankets 72'x 54" is around forty bucks on Amazon, but I got them for 1 buck each from a local thrift store.

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I used some stuff called EZ Cool from lobucrod.com in my Ram 2500 and it works very well. I'm going to put it in the Valiant also when I do the 4-speed conversion. It's dirt cheap and insulates well from both heat and sound.
 
Thanks to all. Yes, I live in NW Iowa where the temps can range from 25 below or colder to 110 above in the shade with some crazy humidity. So if is not just the salt on our roads causing the rusty cars and trucks. My concern is to deaden the sound, and allow the metal to breathe as well.....am I right? I did not do a great job on the 66GT, and i know/hear it. The 65 will be different for sure. Thanks again. Old Dart 66.
 
I used FatMat Rattle Trap in my '70 300 on the floor and in the doors. RattleTrap 25 SqFt FatMat Sound Deadener Super Stick Super Thick Formula | eBay

I was quite happy with the results. It is over double the thickness of the stuff you can buy in Home Depot/Lowes. Buy a J-Roller (used for laminate countertops) to roll it down.

I don't think I would use it on the roof though. It does stick well, but it's also a bit heavy and I wouldn't be comfortable using it there.

I used the EZ-Cool from EZ Cool Automotive Insulation heat barrier and noise reduction for cars, trucks, classic cars, street rods and much more on the roof of my '53 Windsor. I was applying it on a very hot day... I could actually feel the car getting cooler inside as I applied it. It's a very light product.
 
Big_John said:
I used FatMat Rattle Trap in my '70 300 on the floor and in the doors. RattleTrap 25 SqFt FatMat Sound Deadener Super Stick Super Thick Formula | eBay

I was quite happy with the results. It is over double the thickness of the stuff you can buy in Home Depot/Lowes. Buy a J-Roller (used for laminate countertops) to roll it down.

I don't think I would use it on the roof though. It does stick well, but it's also a bit heavy and I wouldn't be comfortable using it there.

I used the EZ-Cool from EZ Cool Automotive Insulation heat barrier and noise reduction for cars, trucks, classic cars, street rods and much more on the roof of my '53 Windsor. I was applying it on a very hot day... I could actually feel the car getting cooler inside as I applied it. It's a very light product.
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All great ideas to choose from, so I think with the information provided, I will be good to go. On the roof, I bought the headliner from Dantes, and they sent the fiber insulation pad with it. The headliner is perforated, and the fibrous nature of insulation allows that area to breathe. My major concern is quiet along with not trapping moisture. Thanks for the help. Old Dart 66
 
pauly v.100 said:
B-Quiet Ultimate. way cheaper that dynamat
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Thanks for the response. Many different options, but, for sure, on the 65, I will be doing something better. On the 66, I did not do anything, and I can not hear myself think. I will wind up taking the interior back out on my 66, and doing something with it, but the 65 will be the first step. Thanks for your input. Old Dart 66
 
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