Elephant Ears Cracking?

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Coffee&Cars

Coffee&Cars

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12 miles from the track, Ohio
A while back I read a few posts about peoples engine plates cracking. And some that even had mid-plates also. They are both great mounts for lateral twist but do little to stop forward and aft engine movement. That's what can cause the front plates crack. In order to stop this you need to install engine limiters. I got a kit from Summit Racing. It is made for brand X so you have to make it fit of course. I could not post the photos of it at the time because I did not have a camera. So here they are. The drivers side heim joint is on top of the frame rail and attached to a threaded factory hole on the front of the block. The passenger side heim joint is mounted on the inside of the frame rail "just below the ignition coil" and extends back to a factory engine mount ear. Here are the photos.
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2 piece ? -- Seems like a one piece plate would be stronger ?? Not sure.
 
RPMagoo said:
2 piece ? -- Seems like a one piece plate would be stronger ?? Not sure.
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mine is a one piece plate. I built a limiter almost identicle to yours, mounted almost identicle, drivers side only .
 
Coffee&cars, what is ur setup,times, etc. Looks good.
 
Agreed a one piece is probably stronger. One bar from what I have learned does not distribute the load evenly. I don't know what the car will run yet. When I bought it, it was a running car but found so many problems I tore it all apart. Engine is a 440,4.15 crank, h-beam rods.+.030 over = 493.4 ci., weisco pistons and rings, ported Eddy heads, 11.4 compression, super vic. intake, 1050 dom., comp cams solid roller 273 degrees@.050., 306 total, smith brother push rods, Harland sharp rockers 1.5, 4000 stall PTC converter, 727, narrowed dana 60 spool 4:56 gears, calvert split mono leafs and calvert bars, 32 X 14.5 M/T, 14 point tig welded cage with drivers hoop. I had to scrap all the wiring as it was about to catch fire! So I have rewired the entire system. The engine is totally rebuilt and so is the trans. 5 clutch pack hubs (billet hubs) and a bolt in sprag, Upon disassembly I found both were going to blow up very soon. I scrapped the interior and built a complete new interior. I media blasted the engine compartment and the complete under chassie and interior and painted it with Por 15. It's all steel with fiberglass hood "six pack scoop" and fiberglass rear deck lid. The complete rear quarter panels were replaced by the previous owner. At present it is a rust free car. Don't know what it will run. My guess is somewhere between 10.00 -10.50.

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You little rebel you! I'm gonna bet you are right on, on your guess. I run a similar size and shape with a best of 10.23 and I think you'll be a bit better than that. Knocking so hard on high 9's it's gonna hurt. When is the maiden track trip?
 
Can't say for sure still have a few things to do on it yet. I need to get it certified yet, belts and window net need installed and a few more panels on the section over the rear window to cover interior body holes and a couple of brake lines to redo. It should certify down to 8.50tracks around here do not open until May. If I still have it I want to go to the opening day at the new Dragway 42.
 
Coffee&Cars said:
Can't say for sure still have a few things to do on it yet. I need to get it certified yet, belts and window net need installed and a few more panels on the section over the rear window to cover interior body holes and a couple of brake lines to redo. It should certify down to 8.50tracks around here do not open until May. If I still have it I want to go to the opening day at the new Dragway 42.
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had a friend that had to back his carb off to keep it in the 9:60`s, and keep from splitting his 440 blocks. mine will probably not be hooked up that hard w/ 3:73 gears, and drag radials. 3 solid attachment points and a rubber trans mount-I`m not worried about it at all.
 
Well the alum. caps and studs really do help a lot . I just wanted some extra insurance. I started out building this car for me as if I was going to keep it for myself. But also wanting to re-sell it when it was done and build another version. I have an 1971 industrial 400 block that needs a home. But if I was going to buy a car of this nature already done, I would want it built with the best parts and done right. So this is what I did.
 
After two major problems with the engine builds it is finished. Best time to date last summer was a 10:29 @ 131mph. The best thing that came out of this build is a new design for a 727 trans blanket. Yes it is SFI certified. It will be shown on Performance TV Feb 10th 9:30am on the Velocity network, & Mav TV March 9th at 9:30am & 4pm

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Coffee&Cars said:
After two major problems with the engine builds it is finished. Best time to date last summer was a 10:29 @ 131mph. The best thing that came out of this build is a new design for a 727 trans blanket. Yes it is SFI certified. It will be shown on Performance TV Feb 10th 9:30am on the Velocity network, & Mav TV March 9th at 9:30am & 4pm

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NICE ! Now about that 400 block ?
 
Nice ride ! And info.

Do you remember what your 60ft was on the 10.29 run ?
 
HEMI-ITIS said:
If you had a thick motorplate and a midplate you'd be fine without limiters

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I have a 1/4", one piece motor plate, and one limiter on the drivers side, like I stated before, but have decided to go ahead and build one for the pass side also.
It will take a little more fabrication because the 130 amp alternator is where the stock fuel pump would normally be.
 
Hemi-itis, I do agree with you. No doubt you can make them thick enough to with stand the abuse. However many of us have to play the hand we were dealt. Sooooo if you can't switch to the thick plates or a full plate this is sure fire way to fix this problem. And cheap.. I got that X-Motor kit at Summit for around $50.
 
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