318 TDC help
YUP. Pistons stop. This is one I made in the early 70's and still have it
If you buy one be certain to add a lock nut to jam the plunger. the popular ones you see "wiggle around."
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Remove battery ground, and no1 plug. Look in or probe the cylinder to make sure the piston is "down a ways." Install the stop. Use a socket to rotate the crank CW until the piston stops on the device. Make an accurate temporary mark onto the balancer under TDC
Now rotate all the way around CCW until it again stops. Make a second mark. The TRUE TDC will be halfway between the two marks
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There are only two ways to get the dist installed on the correct stroke. It does not matter where the intermediate gear is, and distributor tangs turn out "they vary" over the years, IE the tang is not always the same relationship as the rotor
So..
A: If you have either valve cover off, bring the engine to TDC. Either no6 or no1 valves will be closed, the other two will be close to "split overlap" IE both somewhat open. BE CAREFUL they are easy to mistake. Turn the crank a few degrees, if either valves move, you are on the wrong stroke.
B: Remove no1 plug, devise a way to jumper the starter AT THE STARTER RELAY, all you need is a screwdriver across the two large exposed terminals.
Stick a finger in no1, bump the starter until you feel compression
Now look for the marks "coming up." Bump or wrench the engine around until you get the marks to NOT TDC, but rather where you want initial timing, IE 8-10 for a bone stock 318, 15 or so for a mild cam, might be more on a real thumper.
So NOW you have the engine ON THE correct stroke (no1 compression) and you have the MARKS set NOT at TDC, but where you want initial timing.
=========================
NOW drop in the distributor. You do NOT have to use a special hole for no1. Put the rotor pointing the one of two ways it will fit, rotor pointing to driver's side.
Rotate the dist. body "retarded" (CW on a SB). Slowly bring it back advanced (CCW) until the points just open or the reluctor is centered in the pickup core
YOU CAN ALSO use a timing light "on the starter" to set timing!!
Use the cap and determine which tower the rotor is "about to" connect going CW. Plug no1 into that hole and then the rest of the wires..........and......
START IT UP
YUP. Pistons stop. This is one I made in the early 70's and still have it
If you buy one be certain to add a lock nut to jam the plunger. the popular ones you see "wiggle around."
===========================
Remove battery ground, and no1 plug. Look in or probe the cylinder to make sure the piston is "down a ways." Install the stop. Use a socket to rotate the crank CW until the piston stops on the device. Make an accurate temporary mark onto the balancer under TDC
Now rotate all the way around CCW until it again stops. Make a second mark. The TRUE TDC will be halfway between the two marks
================================
There are only two ways to get the dist installed on the correct stroke. It does not matter where the intermediate gear is, and distributor tangs turn out "they vary" over the years, IE the tang is not always the same relationship as the rotor
So..
A: If you have either valve cover off, bring the engine to TDC. Either no6 or no1 valves will be closed, the other two will be close to "split overlap" IE both somewhat open. BE CAREFUL they are easy to mistake. Turn the crank a few degrees, if either valves move, you are on the wrong stroke.
B: Remove no1 plug, devise a way to jumper the starter AT THE STARTER RELAY, all you need is a screwdriver across the two large exposed terminals.
Stick a finger in no1, bump the starter until you feel compression
Now look for the marks "coming up." Bump or wrench the engine around until you get the marks to NOT TDC, but rather where you want initial timing, IE 8-10 for a bone stock 318, 15 or so for a mild cam, might be more on a real thumper.
So NOW you have the engine ON THE correct stroke (no1 compression) and you have the MARKS set NOT at TDC, but where you want initial timing.
=========================
NOW drop in the distributor. You do NOT have to use a special hole for no1. Put the rotor pointing the one of two ways it will fit, rotor pointing to driver's side.
Rotate the dist. body "retarded" (CW on a SB). Slowly bring it back advanced (CCW) until the points just open or the reluctor is centered in the pickup core
YOU CAN ALSO use a timing light "on the starter" to set timing!!
Use the cap and determine which tower the rotor is "about to" connect going CW. Plug no1 into that hole and then the rest of the wires..........and......
START IT UP