Rebuilt '69 Valiant front end

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nitronut

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I recently had my 1969 Valiant's front end completely rebuilt at a reliable, highly referred local auto shop which specializes in old classic's work using a PST front end kit. (Rubber bushings, not the polygraphite). It really tightened up my steering ratio and handles the bumps in the road much better. My only concern is that when rebuilding the front end it lowered my front end stance about 1-2 inches. When I questioned the mechanic about it he said the rake on the car was because there were two too many leaf springs (5) - two new heavy duty and 3 thinner original stock) on the rear suspension which were added a few years ago. Told me the car's stance could be leveled out by removing a couple of the rear leaf springs. I'm confused though as it was level before the front end rebuild. Attaching before and after photos. The first two photos are before the front end rebuild and the last two are after. Appreciate any thoughts, likes or dislikes. Thanks

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Cruisn' Hines '17.jpg


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First photo - no passengers.

Do you have a similar shot without anyone in it after the mods for a better comparison?

Either way, the front looks too low now.
 
Well you had it rebuilt by a shop that actually works on Mopars? All you need to do is tighten the torsion bars to get the height you need. Lots of post here on that subject. And realign.
 
I agree the first picture shows the front end too high for me. Originally, Since the rear
is elevated, then the front was raised to compensate. So, you can either lower the rear, or crank up the Torsion bars back up to compensate.However, on the Mopar the higher you go, the less the ride, and is harder on the lower control arm bushings.
 
First photo - no passengers.

Do you have a similar shot without anyone in it after the mods for a better comparison?

Either way, the front looks too low now.
Thanks... I agree.
 
First photo - no passengers.

Do you have a similar shot without anyone in it after the mods for a better comparison?

Either way, the front looks too low now.
I agree... Thanks!
 
Well you had it rebuilt by a shop that actually works on Mopars? All you need to do is tighten the torsion bars to get the height you need. Lots of post here on that subject. And realign.
Thanks...I think that's the route to go.
 
I agree the first picture shows the front end too high for me. Originally, Since the rear
is elevated, then the front was raised to compensate. So, you can either lower the rear, or crank up the Torsion bars back up to compensate.However, on the Mopar the higher you go, the less the ride, and is harder on the lower control arm bushings.
Thanks for the info. Torsion bars it is!
 
Sweet looking valiant! Lower the back a little and it would be perfect
 
proper way is to adjust torsion bars after the front end is re-built,then alignment. Your valiant still looks a little high in the rear. Of course that's all personal preference.
 
Just curious what size of tires you running?
 
No matter where the torsion bar is adjusted (as long as you are not sitting on the LCA bumpers) there is no greater wear on bushings or a harsher ride. You CANNOT add twist to the bar. All the adjustment does is to lower the LCA away from the frame. I would lower the rear and inch or two. There are many ways to do this, but I would never reduce the spring rate. Front hangers (Mancini Racing Spring Hanger Set) are probably the best with lowering blocks next.

Also, the front end was not done by somebody who knows Mopars. It does look like it may be sitting on the LCA bumpers. You need at least an inch between the bumper and frame.
 
Somewhere in between the before pic and the after pic would be perfect IMHO.
DON'T lower the rear!
I would adjust the torsion bars up one turn and then take it for a drive.
My bets are on the wheel alignment guy set the front end to factory specs, and that is not the way to go if you have modified the car........ such as radial tires, jacked up the back end, etc.
The higher you set the front end up within reason, the better header clearance you'll have to boot.
These cars look great with some rake to them.
I have one just like your car, same year etc. and like the raised rear and lower front '70s look, but that's me...........
If you want the car to handle better, than lower is better on the back end.
Great looking car BTW!
What is your engine, trans, rear end etc?
I would love to see more pics as well!
 
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Somewhere in between the before pic and the after pic would be perfect IMHO.
DON'T lower the rear!
I would adjust the torsion bars up one turn and then take it for a drive.
My bets are on the wheel alignment guy set the front end to factory specs, and that is not the way to go if you have modified the car........ such as radial tires, jacked up the back end, etc.
The higher you set the front end up within reason, the better header clearance you'll have to boot.
These cars look great with some rake to them.
I have one just like your car, same year etc. and like the raised rear and lower front '70s look, but that's me...........
If you want the car to handle better, than lower is better on the back end.
Great looking car BTW!
What is your engine, trans, rear end etc?
I would love to see more pics as well!
 
Hi. It's got a 360 with a mild cam, headers, 600cfm Edelbrock carb, 727 trans with a shift kit and Cheetah shifter, an 8 3/4rear end with a 3.91 gear. Runs pretty decent, good enough for me!
 
Hi. It's got a 360 with a mild cam, headers, 600cfm Edelbrock carb, 727 trans with a shift kit and Cheetah shifter, an 8 3/4rear end with a 3.91 gear. Runs pretty decent, good enough for me!
Sounds like mine when it grows up!
For now, it's got a 318 with column 904 automatic and a 2:94 bbp 8 1/4'' A-body rear and bbp (73 and up) discs on the front end.
I need to get it on the road this year as is, but of course we all have plans.........
There will be a build thread started later in the spring on this car. I plan to go 4 speed with it as well, i have all of the parts to do the conversion. I'm not sure of the paint color yet, it is frost green originally.
I was thinking of black, dark green or staying with the original color............Your red is too blinding for me, but it sure looks nice!
What's your wheel and tire combo with offset?
I want to go body colored steel wheels with pie plate hubcaps on mine as well.
 
Sounds like mine when it grows up!
For now, it's got a 318 with column 904 automatic and a 2:94 bbp 8 1/4'' A-body rear and bbp (73 and up) discs on the front end.
I need to get it on the road this year as is, but of course we all have plans.........
There will be a build thread started later in the spring on this car. I plan to go 4 speed with it as well, i have all of the parts to do the conversion. I'm not sure of the paint color yet, it is frost green originally.
I was thinking of black, dark green or staying with the original color............Your red is too blinding for me, but it sure looks nice!
What's your wheel and tire combo with offset?
I want to go body colored steel wheels with pie plate hubcaps on mine as well.
Sounds good! I know, that's a lot of red! lol... it was red when I bought the car 10 years ago...
 
I agree the first picture shows the front end too high for me. Originally, Since the rear
is elevated, then the front was raised to compensate. So, you can either lower the rear, or crank up the Torsion bars back up to compensate.However, on the Mopar the higher you go, the less the ride, and is harder on the lower control arm bushings.

Nope. Raising the front end with the torsion bars will add more suspension travel, not reduce it. It will not change the ride quality at all, beyond the handling changes due to the raised center of gravity. And if anything, it will be easier on the lower control arm bushings, because they'll be further away from the frame and less likely to ever make contact.

No matter where the torsion bar is adjusted (as long as you are not sitting on the LCA bumpers) there is no greater wear on bushings or a harsher ride. You CANNOT add twist to the bar. All the adjustment does is to lower the LCA away from the frame. I would lower the rear and inch or two. There are many ways to do this, but I would never reduce the spring rate. Front hangers (Mancini Racing Spring Hanger Set) are probably the best with lowering blocks next.

Also, the front end was not done by somebody who knows Mopars. It does look like it may be sitting on the LCA bumpers. You need at least an inch between the bumper and frame.

Exactly so. The wheel rate does not change when you raise or lower the car with the torsion bar adjusters. The only thing that becomes a problem is if you lower the car too much for the spring rate of the torsion bars, so the reduced travel means you hit the bump stops more frequently. Which itself can be interpreted as a harsh ride, even though what really needs to happen is the torsion bars need to be replaced with larger ones with a higher spring rate to match the amount of suspension travel with the amount that will be used by the torsion bars.

And it does look way too low in the front for stock components. The steering arms look parallel to the ground, which means it probably is sitting on the stock lower bump stops.

I'm running BF Goodrich P205/60R15's on the front and P225/60R15's on the rear ... 15 x 7 rims, small bolt patter.

Those are pretty short tires. At the factory ride height you'll have an air gap between the tops of the tires and the wheel openings. It was higher than stock before the rebuild, and lower than stock after. The rear is quite a bit higher than stock though too, and all those added leaf springs are probably making the rear spring rate too high as well. If you like the ride height in the back, you should consider getting a new set of springs. Something from ESPO with a +1" over the stock arch would probably be decent for you. That will keep the car at a similar ride height, while having the correct spring rate.

If you want the factory ride height in the front, here's the process for setting it. You want to use the info for the "V&L" car lines, those are for A-bodies. Ignore the alignment settings, you've got radials and those are for bias ply's. You'll want 0 to -.5* camber, as much positive caster as you can get (it'll only be +1 or +2* with factory bushings and components) and 1/16" to 1/8" toe in. You will need an alignment after you change the ride height.
factoryalignspecs.jpg
 
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