lunati 10200703

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ktcnn94

ktcnn94

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I'm pretty sure this is gonna start a debate, but I've got question or two about this cam. I'm curious if anyone has ran it with stock "new" 360 valve springs? good, bad? And is there an alternative to the recommended lunati springs that wont require any head work? Thanks
 
ktcnn94 said:
I'm pretty sure this is gonna start a debate, but I've got question or two about this cam. I'm curious if anyone has ran it with stock "new" 360 valve springs? good, bad? And is there an alternative to the recommended lunati springs that wont require any head work? Thanks
Click to expand...

Don't do it.

I ran a set of mopar performance springs with my 10200704 Lunati cam. Not stock springs either mind you, but single springs with a damper that were recommended by the guy that did the port work on my heads. While stiffer than a set of OE springs, they weren't stiff enough. The result was a totally ruined set of Harland Sharp rockers.

Lunati cams run pretty fast ramps, and they need springs to suit that. I'm not saying there aren't other springs out there that will work, I'm sure there are and maybe someone can give you a working combination, but new 360 springs won't fit the bill.
 
I run this cam in my 360. There is no way you could use stock springs. Do it the right way and you will love the way it runs. You will need a looser converter if your running an automatic. When I called them they told me at least a 2400 stall.
 
Cam Style: Hydraulic flat tappet
Basic Operating RPM Range: 1,800-6,200
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift: 226
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift: 234
Duration at 050 inch Lift: 226 int./234 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration: 268
Advertised Exhaust Duration: 276
Advertised Duration: 268 int./276 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.494 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.513 in.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.494 int./0.513 exh.
Lobe Separation (degrees): 110
Computer-Controlled Compatible: No
Valve Springs Required: Yes

This is a nice sized street cam, for a 360.. Spring it right, you can rev the nuts off it.
In the right combo, this is about my favorite size. It can make gobs of torque, yet likes to rev, and with the right tune, can make really good fuel mileage.
With 1.6 arms and lotsa pressure it doesn't take much stall, and will pull any gear from 2.94 up.
It's a winner in my book.
 
Trashed a rocker arm, pushrod, and lifter trying to cheap out with the same cam.
Using stock 340 springs.
Replaced broke parts, but there is still a small tick on that side of the engine.
Guess what I get to do this spring, change the cam, add proper springs and re-do it.
It is a nice street cam, springs are cheap.
 
Use with the proper springs. Do t money pinch here!

Use with 3.23 gears and stock diameter tires at a min. Larger tires size and 3.55’s at a min. Will be really cool.
 
rumblefish360 said:
Use with the proper springs. Do t money pinch here!

Use with 3.23 gears and stock diameter tires at a min. Larger tires size and 3.55’s at a min. Will be really cool.
Click to expand...

X2 I thought I was good, but poked the lifter plunger clear down.
I have 3.23 gears and a 4-speed now, but have a fresh set of 4.30 gears to make it more playful.
 
Thanks for the input guys, that’s what I was thinking too but thought I’d ask. It’s actually a .030 340 that I’m building. I’ve found a nice set of 360 heads that have been milled, new seats, seals, guides, valves and springs. I just wasn’t sure what the springs were. The guy abondoned a build and was selling parts he had, he didn’t know much about them as it was his dads stuff. Had an enormous cam and some other misc parts. I picked up just the heads this evening and after checking them out they have dual springs installed. So I should be good. The heads look real nice, very clean, everything looks fresh. They had the intake side of the heads milled as well to make up for the difference. Combustion chambers look pretty tight, I’m gonna CC them tomorrow eve after work. I’m gonna be running a 3.55 with 295/50/15’s out back (mini tubbed and narrowed axle, springs relocated). And I’ll go with that lunati cam, air gap and Doug’s headers already in possession. I’m building my 727 and will probably go with a 2500 stall. Thanks again FABO.
 
I wouldn't assume anything. It's easy to pull a couple of springs off, check the installe height, seat and open pressure and coil bind.
 
yellow rose said:
I wouldn't assume anything. It's easy to pull a couple of springs off, check the installe height, seat and open pressure and coil bind.
Click to expand...
Very good advice. Better safe than sorry, I’ll check them. Thank you.
 
yellow rose said:
I wouldn't assume anything. It's easy to pull a couple of springs off, check the installe height, seat and open pressure and coil bind.
Click to expand...
Any advice or help on these procedures you can offer? Videos, articles, suggested tools etc. thanks for any help.
 
Spring compressor and a height mic. Both can be had very reasonable.

Spring pressures, need a machine shop with a Rimac spring tester. A shop may do it and check the heights for cheap.
 
Another point,,, just because a spring is listed with the right seat and open pressure doesn't mean it is a good spring. Material and spring frequency are very important.
Go with a very well known brand, make sure they match your rpm and cam needs, and find out if there is a beehive type that will fit your application as well. The Beehive springs have proven themselves to be superior in most applications, and I would think this is one of them. I am not saying they will make more power, but if there is any trouble with the springs in use at all, they can bring back any lost power. Also they are known to allow more revs with the same seat and open pressures. As I understand it, a beehive spring has no frequency issues like a straight spring, because the frequency is always changing due to the taper. A poor straight spring with the wrong frequency can raise havoc at those rpms. For instance, I run a spring with a frequency that shows up at 2,000 rpm, (no problem), 4,000 rpm, no problem here since I launch at 5,000 and trap at 7500, and the next frequency cycle is 8,000 rpm. So My valvetrain is happy. In the past I have bought cheap springs that didn't last three weekends, on a motor that never saw more than 6300 rpm!
 
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Coil bind is your enemy. Often a guy will be more concerened with spring pressure tha coil bind. If that new cam has more lift than stock it has to be a major factor...
 
I ordered the recommended valve springs from lunati. I’ll ck everything when I get them in. Thanks everybody.
 
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