Headers for my 71 Demon 340.

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hux340

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Hi all,
I live in Aust & have a 71 Dodge Demon 340. I want to get a set of headers or extractors as we call them here. Having troubles getting them here, so I might have to get them from the states. If that's the case, what brand do you suggest? I want good quality ones. What would they cost? I'll also be getting them coated when I get them.
Cheers,
Glenn.
 
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Dougs D453 from autozone using a 20% off code. Or call jegs/summit and have them price match.

They are already coated. Nice headers, use them all the time.
 
Doug’s D453’s are what I run on the 340 in my Duster. Great headers!

The only other ones worth running would be TTI’s. They sell both long tube and shorties, although having installed a set of the TTI shorties I’d probably just go with the long tubes. The shorties are a little easier to install, but they cost about the same and for the trouble you might as well go all the way.
 
Doug’s or tti. That’s it. If you go the 1 size fits all your rolling the dice on fit. I have had great luck, I have had horrible luck. I believe there is no quality control or actual care with the 1 size fits all nightmare headers.
 
Doug’s or tti. That’s it. If you go the 1 size fits all your rolling the dice on fit. I have had great luck, I have had horrible luck. I believe there is no quality control or actual care with the 1 size fits all nightmare headers.
This doesn't help me, if I'm getting them shipped here to Aust. I'd be really pissed off if they don't fit once they got here. It's not like I can return them, especially if it's costing me close to $1,000 aus landed. How do I avoid this?
Was looking at D543 Doug's long tube ceramic headers, they look cool.
 
They will fit. At most, a ding here or there. There's no major surgery, And you only have those two choices, for the best chance of zero troubles.
And the TTIs are thick,heavy, beasts that last decades,and hold their torque on the heads,( none of these 1-year wonders.). My TTIs are circa 1999, and still going, altho, since I bought them uncoated and ran them also for 5-winters on my DD, the merges collected salt and where they did, they rotted; my fault. No biggie to repair.
 
hux340, Is your car a automatic or 4 speed ? If a 4 speed,you may have some clearance issues with the cross bar clutch linkage. If automatic check out the "How To Articles" at the top of the page. There is a TTI shorty headers install that you can use for reference.
 
TTIs I just installed a set after fighting a set of hedmans that just didn’t want to fit. It took all of 30 minutes to install them. Just get that car a couple feet in the air(makes it way easier).
 
This doesn't help me, if I'm getting them shipped here to Aust. I'd be really pissed off if they don't fit once they got here. It's not like I can return them, especially if it's costing me close to $1,000 aus landed. How do I avoid this?
Was looking at D543 Doug's long tube ceramic headers, they look cool.
OK, ether use headers by Doug or TTI headers because they both have excellent fit.

Use of any other header, as in the typical one size fits all chassis headers, may not fit and may require extensive use of a hammer. A big freakin hammer.
 
Being a 4 speed, the z-bar may need a bit of a tweak to fit with either Dougs or tti.

The cheap ones, clear the z bar, but, hang low under steering linkage and like to burn plug wires.

IMO, tweak the Z bar!!!!
 
How about the Schumacher Tri-Y headers. Very well made, thicker than most, and will work with power steering.
 
Mopar guru of mine here in Aus says the only way to fit Dougs long tube headers is to remove the k frame then lower the engine with trans connected then fit the headers & refit. Also need mini starter which I've got already.
Quickest & least frustrating way of doing it.
Ordering some Doug's long tube ceramic headers D453's tomorrow from the states. Unless anyone can talk me out of it.
 
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Mopar guru of mine here in Aus says the only way to fit Dougs long tube headers is to remove the k frame then lower the engine with trans connected then fit the headers & refit. Also need mini starter which I've got already.
Quickest & least frustrating way of doing it.
Ordering some Doug's long tube ceramic headers D543's tomorrow from the states. Unless anyone can talk me out of it.
That would be way more work than I'd be willing to do. The TTIs went into my 68 Barracuda , just fine, with the car on a hoist and the T-bars backed up. I had them in and out about a half dozen or more times, in the first 5 years. I don't recall it being a problem. I think one side went in from the top and the other from the bottom. But I'd be guessing if I said the driver's side went in from the top.
 
Mopar guru of mine here in Aus says the only way to fit Dougs long tube headers is to remove the k frame then lower the engine with trans connected then fit the headers & refit. Also need mini starter which I've got already.
Quickest & least frustrating way of doing it.
Ordering some Doug's long tube ceramic headers D453's tomorrow from the states. Unless anyone can talk me out of it.

You don't need to remove the K frame at all. You can if you want, you can install the headers bolted up to the engine from the bottom with the whole thing bolted to the K frame just like the factory did it. But you don't need to.

The last time I pulled and reinstalled my Doug's I pulled the Z-bar, mini-starter, and dropped the steering center link (and cycled the steering side to side depending on which side I was working on). I slid the the torsion bars back, and I did not need to raise the engine as it says in the instructions. You heard that right, the Doug's came out (and went back in!) without moving the engine off the mounts. On the passenger side I also had to drop the oil filter relocation pickup, just like you'd have to drop the oil filter as in the instructions. And I pulled the exhaust studs on the passenger side too, it was easier to drain the radiator than jack up the engine. This was all with the car raised up about 2 feet or so on jackstands, they come in from the bottom so the more room you have the better. A lift would be easiest, but I don't have one of those.

You do need to modify the Z-bar for the Doug's, just like you have to for the TTI's. In fact, the instructions for modifying the Z-bar come from TTI. Same thing works great for the Doug's too though. TTI also sells the modified Z-bar, but it's pretty easy to do.

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Here's the one I did myself using an original. Basically you take the arm for the clutch adjuster, cut it off the Z-bar, slide it down to the very end of the z bar and reverse it so that the clutch adjuster stud faces inside instead of out and weld the arm back on. It's a pretty simple operation if you have a welder.
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You can take a look as some more info on my build thread, I did a little write up about switching from the Doug's to a set of TTI shorties, and then back to the Doug's because I liked them better than the shorties.
My "new" '74 Duster- or why I need a project like a hole in the head


That would be way more work than I'd be willing to do. The TTIs went into my 68 Barracuda , just fine, with the car on a hoist and the T-bars backed up. I had them in and out about a half dozen or more times, in the first 5 years. I don't recall it being a problem. I think one side went in from the top and the other from the bottom. But I'd be guessing if I said the driver's side went in from the top.

The Doug's install just like the TTI's, the differences between the two are fairly minor. The Doug's are a little tighter to the chassis, but it doesn't make a huge difference on install. If you installed something from the top I'm pretty sure it wasn't with a set of TTI's or Doug's, both brands and both sides install from the bottom unless maybe you pulled the steering box out.
 
Well, if you have a shop and a nice line of tool with experienced hands, dropping the whole K frame with engine is probably the easiest way and least frustrating though unusual.

Everything gets done on my back.
 
I dunno man. For your various threads its hard to know what your main goals and uses really are. Your other thread made made me suggest TTI or custom to protect the bottom end.
Dougs are the best priced of the generally decent fitting ones here in the states. There's no step, so there ought to be a hair more room.
Dougs, and now TTI make headers for the earlier bodies (-'66) and those are much tighter to fit. Still, the people I know have installed them without dropping the K-frame. Those are labor intensive installs.

I'm sure there are guys in OZ under making custom headers. Stainless of course. See if you can message Hysteric on this board, he may know who.

If sizing is a question, see this post Someone school me on header size.

If heat reduction is important, then see if Zircotech has a operation in Australia. If so, then you can have your headers coated locally and maybe it works out better costwise. The Doug's cost significantly less purchased uncoated.
 
What are your cam specs?
Your cam has a large effect on the power headers will add.I went through this with Ultradyne when they ground my cam.
Headers will add some power but might not be alot depending on your cam and may not be the best bang for your buck.
 
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