What is the duration @ .050 in the cam your looking at?
What is the target of the build?
Looking at just this here, IMO, I think it will be fine. You can to a large degree match the cams rpm operating hand to the intakes operating rpm band. The closer the match, the better. You can be off 500 rpms without I’ll effects or short comings that will matter much of anything on the street driven cars. Or the in general hopped up mills. It’s not a huge things. It is VERY minor.
The advantage of the rpm is a higher ceiling of performance and no heat cross over which is a plus in the warm weather. If the vehicle gets driven in the cold, the heat cross over is a big plus in drive ability.
Speaking of cool/cold weather driving, you may also want to have a second factory styled air cleaner that has a hot air stove on it for the cold weather. Just Incase you drive it in the cold.
I had a rpm AG on my small block. Sometimes I drove it in way to cold weather. The engine would warm up fine, give heat for the cabin, and think I’m good to go. Wrong! The intake of cold air was so cold it would turn the choke closed in a minute sending idle back up high.
What a pain that was.
