TTI Headers on a 340 in a 65 Dart

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Has anyone used TTI headers in a 65 Dart using a 340 engine. Their ad says, if I understand it correctly, that I can keep the Power Steering. Anyone have any experience with this? Also, will there be room for a power brake booster with the TTIs as I did not see that mentioned on their site. I understand that I will need a mini starter....correct? Thought I would ask someone who has done this already....might save some time. Thanks ahead. Best. Old Dart 66
 
The do work with in early A body with a 340, our car does not have power steering, the headers are not close to the box, and you can just use a starter from a 93 Dakota, but i am not sure on the power brakes, that could be a tight or no fit.
 
Hey 65V, Good info every day, and still learning. '93 Dakota...I will look into that as I know where one is sitting. Thanks. Old Dart 66
 
Power steering no problem, you'll need a mini starter for sure. Power brakes, not sure about that one. 65'
 
Has anyone got pics? I'm thinking they will fit my 66 signet with 360 no ps no pb.. Thanks
 
Pics would be good. Maybe with power brakes? I see a booster with an angled bracket that elevates the system offered online. Anybody tried that? Just would like to get an idea before I order the parts and then have to send them back, or worse yet, sit on them for a while. I know the early a does not have much room but only to shoehorn things in a limited space......therefore, the questions. Thanks again. Old Dart 66.
 
Jerry, If you use the Kelsey Hayes booster with the angled bracket, that will actually clear the valve cover. I will be using that set-up with the 273 in my wagon.

B3B3EE9F-DFD8-48BA-8455-E4DD7EA79BF7.jpeg


If you're using the original flat against the firewall 65 booster with the remote reservoir - I suspect probably not.
 
Hi Don, Thanks again for your input. Appreciate it. Old Dart 66.
 
Loosing the booster in an early A, would not stop me from sticking a 340/360 in there. You can balance the brake system with hydraulic sizing, M/C bore sizing, and pedal ratios to get just what you want without the booster.
But the little booster shown works reasonably well, if you just gotta have a booster.
You may have a harder time closing the hood on the air-filter housing.lol.
Happy HotRodding.
 
AJ/FormS said:
Loosing the booster in an early A, would not stop me from sticking a 340/360 in there. You can balance the brake system with hydraulic sizing, M/C bore sizing, and pedal ratios to get just what you want without the booster.
But the little booster shown works reasonably well, if you just gotta have a booster.
You may have a harder time closing the hood on the air-filter housing.lol.
Happy HotRodding.
Click to expand...

Good thoughts all around. More to think about as this is my first swap. Thanks. Old Dat 66
 
if you have a 904 its hit or miss whether a good ol nippy-mini will fit or not. Just did TTI's on my 66 with a 904, clockable powermaster, and i still had to dimple the header ever so slightly. initially I tried a "large case" mini from a 92 dakota that i picked up 10+ years ago, cylinder 5 primary rested on the motor body. no go. Next was a "small case" from an 01 ram van, same story. Called TTI about it and they claimed it could be due to "jig variations"......well, understandable, BUT when a set of headers costs north of 800 duckets i expect them to fit, and fit correctly. Anyway, with my 408 the last option was a robb-mc.......surprise! wouldnt fit due to the block, and the 904. shouldnt be an issue on a 340. FYI the starter sits approx 7/16 of an inch lower/closer to the crank centerline than a 727 does. I measured 2 spare cases i happen to have laying around. Called RobbMC and shot him an e-mail. he updated his website, because evidently no one has ever tried it before......anyway. FYI!!
 
66durgederp said:
if you have a 904 its hit or miss whether a good ol nippy-mini will fit or not. Just did TTI's on my 66 with a 904, clockable powermaster, and i still had to dimple the header ever so slightly. initially I tried a "large case" mini from a 92 dakota that i picked up 10+ years ago, cylinder 5 primary rested on the motor body. no go. Next was a "small case" from an 01 ram van, same story. Called TTI about it and they claimed it could be due to "jig variations"......well, understandable, BUT when a set of headers costs north of 800 duckets i expect them to fit, and fit correctly. Anyway, with my 408 the last option was a robb-mc.......surprise! wouldnt fit due to the block, and the 904. shouldnt be an issue on a 340. FYI the starter sits approx 7/16 of an inch lower/closer to the crank centerline than a 727 does. I measured 2 spare cases i happen to have laying around. Called RobbMC and shot him an e-mail. he updated his website, because evidently no one has ever tried it before......anyway. FYI!!
Click to expand...
All info good to know. Too be honest, I still don't know what I am going to do. Yes, the 340/904 is where I am headed, but I get the feel there is a bunch of shimming and clearance issues. Some say TTIs are a go in the 65 Dart, but others say it is a real tight fit. Have to make a decision soon, but leaning toward standard exhaust with an early 340 driver manifold with the mini and manual steering. Thanks. Old Dart 66
 
Old Dart 66 said:
All info good to know. Too be honest, I still don't know what I am going to do. Yes, the 340/904 is where I am headed, but I get the feel there is a bunch of shimming and clearance issues. Some say TTIs are a go in the 65 Dart, but others say it is a real tight fit. Have to make a decision soon, but leaning toward standard exhaust with an early 340 driver manifold with the mini and manual steering. Thanks. Old Dart 66
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Well; what kindof power are you expecting, and what cam are you running, and more importantly how much overlap on that cam, and what exhaust and how hard are you gonna wail on the old girl?lol.
With a stockish 340 with a stockish cam, logs are not the end of the world. The factory cam only had 44* of overlap, so not having headers didn't hurt all that much. But modern performance 110LSA cams begin at 60 and go to 70, or more. Headers on these make a nice boost, whereas the logs will more or less kill it.Headers are never a bad choice and will always show some improvement, but you know; $1000 for 10hp is not a hard decision to veto, whereas $1000 for 30 at peak and and a nice fat torque boost,well that's a different decision,right?
As for me I'd get uncoated and make them fit. Oh wait, I already did that,lol, in a 68 Barracuda. Sure there was lots of fudging, and several test fits. Took the column out; it's like 6 bolts, 2 screws and a pin. Make the headers fit, then refit the column and finish. The other side was one shot for T-bar clearance.
The a couple of shots for the steering to work,then another shot for Z-bar clearance. Then take it all out and dress the wounds. And finally,send it out for coating, if you're so inclined; I wasn't.

And I would give up both the P/S and the P/B, for headers, in a 65. Even in my heavier 68, if I had to.

That's HotRodding, making it work.
 
Indeed, it is. Decisions for sure. Thanks for the input.....appreciate it. Old Dart 66
 
I have a 66 Plymouth valiant with a 340 4 speed with tti headers with power steering

its really tight gotta pull motor to get headers in or out

had to mod the z bar
 
Thanks 23, Good to know as i am in the process of reconsidering the TTIs. I may go with a standard exhaust, but finding a 69 340 driver side manifold is a tough job. I understand that a 96/97/98 JGCherokee is the ticket on the passenger side, but the driver side is hard to find for the E manifold that will work. I will lose the HP by not using the headers, but i don't know if I want to go through the shimming and clearance issues on the torsion bars, steering box, and etc. I know it works with the headers, but lots of work. Already have hundreds of hours in the project, and losing some of the interest. Have yo get recharged. Thanks for the input....Best. Old Dart 66
 
I managed to fit a 74 valiant 360 drivers side manifold in my 66, it has the larger ports to match your 340. The only requirements for it was i had to replace the sheisty pot-coupler with a stainless u-joint style coupler from sweet manufacturing, and cut down the steering shaft about 2 inches + machine the double-d style end. 3/4" double D shaft to 36 spline 3/4" shaft, more commonly sold under "vega" steering box couplers if i recall......
 
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