Update on the assembly and fitment of my Harland Sharp shaft type BB mopar rocker arms. I took the pushrods out and low and behold the rocker shaft sits down on the pedestals flush now. I have begun to loosen up the rocker adjusting nut and backed off the screw in adjusters at the contact point between the end of the pushrods and rocker. I’ve been reading and trying to soak up as much info as possible to work through this. I have started with the front two valves and rockers on the drivers side to drop in the pushrods and adjust the contact point between the the rocker and pushrod to get it at zero lash. Is it possible that with the change from the cast iron 915’s to the Eddy’s that I will have to buy different length pushrods? I plan on contacting Mike at B3 racing engines.
I have read that the best method to set zero lash on all rockers is to spin the pushrod and when it grabs that is zero lash. Turn the engine in increments of 1/4 turn at a time at crank pulley and recheck pushrods as some will loosen a little then retighten until all are at zero lash. This makes sense. After all are set at zero lash than go another 1/2 turn to set preload with Harland Sharps.
What I need to know is that in terms of later having a correct drop in of distributor are my assumptions correct? I think after moving crank pulley two full complete revolutions it will set the engine back at the starting point on the compression stroke? Is that correct? If so I can mark the crank pulley and make sure if comes back around at where I started. Then can just drop in distributor and set timing to be exact. Is that correct guys? Thank you for all the feedback couldn’t do it without all the help.
Carl
