Change from 4-speed to 3w/OD

RustyRatRod said
Then it's possible that it is just too big a jump from 1 to 2 and back to do it smoothly speed shifting or down shifting early..........either I don't know why anyone would want to do anyway, considering that the OD transmissions are somewhat weaker. They were built with primarily one goal in mind. Fuel mileage.

The 833OD’s are fully synchronized just like the regular 833’s. As AJ said, it’s just a big split between gears. You’re shifting between a 3.09 first and a 1.67 second. If you’re not matching rpm’s that means a lot of work for the synchros, they can only do so much. And if you are matching rpms, it might take a little longer to match things up because it’s a big swing, especially dropping revs.

As far as strength, everyone sells the 833OD’s short. No, they’re not quite as strong as a standard 833, but it’s not as big a difference as most people like to think. Most of the components are the same.

AJ/FormS said
What it probably amounts to is a combination of factors
1) insufficient clutch departure
2) a tired brass or glazed cone
3) unfamiliarity with the 54% split
4) driving style
5) fear. Fear of taking charge of that shift.

Yes that split is pretty wide, and after you have driven it for a while you learn to blip the throttle, cuz usually the Rs fall faster than you are braking, and the brass cannot increase the engine speed,which may be dragging on the disc, so the operator has to bring it closer to the driveshaft speed, with a little blip, and then whamming the shifter into first. Exactly like driving a graintruck on soft ground; a blip and a wham. But the more familiar you are with this split, the easier it becomes.
The problem is you only have two feet, and one is holding the clutch pedal down. and the other is braking.I think this is partly why 340s had the dashpot on the carb, to slow the Rs down back to idle, so neophytes wouldn't wreck the clutch teeth during the warranty period,lol.
Anyway, what I often do is push the clutch in with power still applied. This causes a little rpm flare, and an easy synchronization. It's just a different driving style.
Also, if you're running lotsa idle timing, you're throttle opening is gonna be pretty small, and when you lift, the engine rpm is gonna tend to drop like a rock,which can make a great compression brake, but it can also make downshifting, a bit of a chore. That's another reason I only run 14*, and also why I kept the stock heavy flywheel.

Exactly! That’s a big split, you have to match the rpms better because the synchros can’t do everything. They’re not magic, there are limits.

Gotta work on that heel-toe brake/throttle action! :D

RustyRatRod said
I for one would not want to take charge of the shift. They are not designed for it. That's not fear, that's intelligence.

Not designed for it?! That’s exactly how they’re designed!

AJ is talking about matching rpms. That’s exactly how you do it, and it works because that’s how the design of a transmission works. Adjust the engine rpm to get the input speed to match the output speed and the gears slide together. You can do the math with a gear calculator to tell you what the splits are, and when you get familiar with your engine and gear combos it becomes second nature. A blip on the throttle and a firm shift on the lever and away you go! Doesn’t hurt the transmission at all.