Is my rusty 68 Barracuda salvageable?

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Fuzz said:
I appreciate the advice but I enjoy working on the cars, I picked up a restoration project as I no longer have a way to work on cars in college. I'm in school for medicine, I work on the car for fun. I'm fine with spending money on it, just not so much if I have to gut the entire car for more than it's worth.
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Noted. I'm just trying to get you into some fun driving.
 
First and the most important think to consider is, ARE THE FRAME RAILS, ALL 4 AND TORSION CROSS MEMBER SOLID? If not do not consider driving and fixing it. Find a better starting point on another car.
 
I don't want to rain on your parade, but part it out and start with a better car. Here's the thing about rust; what you see is usually less than half of the rust there actually is. I truly understand the desire to work on and drive a classic car (specially a cool Mopar), but I'm not sure I would even want to tackle that rust, and I'm pretty good at it.
 
This reminds me of a video I watched on Netflix yesterday. Guy Martin and crew restored a Mach 1 Spitfire. Restoring anything should start with what it is and its value after restored.
There are still too many general production 68 Barracudas that don't need restored.
 
That would be an ambitious project. I bought a 70 duster 6 years ago now and I'm not very far along. It is pretty solid, but was somebody else's project for too many years and I decided to strip it completely down and start over. It is a long project if you don't have the time to dedicate to it. I have young kids, as well, so my family takes priority over the car. I hope to get after it more this year, but time will tell. I, too, would advise that you focus on your studies and get that part of your future solidified - remember, the car is a project, not a priority. I ended up a lot deeper in mine than I expected, as I ended up pulling the tail light panel and eventually the trunk pan for replacement. The driver's side quarter panel was replaced at some point and there is some light rust in the area where it wraps around into the trunk panel and B pillar, so I will have to pull at least part of that loose now to clean up the lip area. I think a lot of people grossly underestimate how much work it takes to completely strip a car down and rebuild it. If we had 8-10 hours a day to work on them, it might seem that they went together quicker, but most times, we ended up with WAY more into a car than what the end result is worth. But, the sense of pride and accomplishment when they are done is why we do it! Good luck with your decision!
 
I've been looking for a 68 fastback to add to my "collection".

If you decide to sell, please let me know via PM.

I'm about an hour from Orlando.

PS, there's a HUGE car show/swap meet/auction in Lakeland this weekend.
 
Maybe message member "barracudakid", he had a shell up for sale here not long ago! If I see one posted on other sites, I'll pass em along here!
 
YY1 said:
I've been looking for a 68 fastback to add to my "collection".

If you decide to sell, please let me know via PM.

I'm about an hour from Orlando.

PS, there's a HUGE car show/swap meet/auction in Lakeland this weekend.
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Unfortunately I work this weekend. Bummer!
 
I think it starts tomorrow, or maybe even today.

It's a Carlisle event, like the one in PA.
 
...and if you can't find an affordable A body width 8 3/4, one of the best kept secrets is to use a 65-67 B body unit. It was literally a drop in for my 73 Duster. They can be had for under $250 complete if you look hard enough.

Second choice would be an M body 8 1/4, which are very plentiful (relatively speaking), and should only require perch relocation.
 
Work on one section of the car at a time. That way it will be easier to put back together and not be overwhelming. Take your time
 
Bodyperson said:
Are you kidding? Did you look at the pictures? The first time he drives it the tires will fall off. The shock housings are GONE!!!
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beg to differ. there is a rail under the trunk pan that is quite thick. This is a picture of the area on my 66 when I was test fitting a used trunk pan over that shock mount rail . I could walk through the trunk since there was literally nothing there except maybe 1-2 inches of metal
around the shock bolts.
DSCF2074.JPG

and in place welded in.
DSCF2954.JPG
 
If you're new to body work and welding, buy a 110 mig. Start on flat pieces like the trunk. It's good practice and it will help you get the basics down. If you haven't already, pull the gas tank and start there.
 
Stay focused on school first, ,,,,,, then....Like said, check out frames, and points critical where all suspension mounts. T o do an metal work you will require no doubt mig, grinder, tools, KNOWLEDGE, repop panels, sheetsteel. This would take much work, $, for anyone to get anywhere near solid again. Yes you can do it, but??????
I agree a better avenue is start with more slid car, even if it not your preferred model. IF you had this sucker blasted with soda, I bet you would cry then run... Blast some of it with sand and there would be little left!!!
 
R4Sedan said:
The 67-69 Shells are out there, but going up in value like everything else. 70-74 forget about, til you start making big money. Just keep looking for a shell they show up just have money ready.
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Try Oldride.com or search craigslist for a Western or Southwestern cars that don't have the ravages of rust
from cars in salt country. Buying a solid project car that is more expensive to purchase initially is money
better spent than the time and money that will go into your present vehicle. It is complete and will provide
many hard to find parts on any restoration project you choose.
 
Earlier in the thread you commented that you don't mind spending the money, but you're also concerned about exceeding the value of the car. While this is a smart way to start be careful of this mindset. As I'm sure plenty of members here can attest to, costs and time can and will escalate rapidly with a project like yours quickly passing the "value" mark. Consider this. I've been boots on the ground at several of the Scottsdale auctions and setting aside the true blue chip/restored and or survivor cars, I've seen beautiful examples from all makes and models go for a fraction of what it would cost even if they started with a rock solid/ southwest body shell. If you want to do the bodywork and learn how yourself, great! Just don't fall into the trap of misjudging how much time you'll need to devote to it. Life has a way of absorbing a lot of discretionary time and money. Remember, there can be a big difference between correct and good enough and aside from a safety standpoint, only you can define it. Looking at the pictures and reading the description you posted, it wouldn't surprise me if a REPUTABLE body shop experienced in vintage cars would quote upwards of 20K to do the sheet metal, bodywork and paint CORRECTLY. There's your ballpark standard of measurement. Keeping in mind, this doesn't address drivetrain, suspension, interior and all the detail pieces/parts needed and the time to locate, buy and install them. This "hobby" many of us share is not for the faint of heart. It's not my intention here to rain on your parade or to be critical of any of the other members posts. If this hasn't scared you off, fantastic! Welcome to the club and enjoy it. Just do yourself a huge favor and be realistic going in and all will be fine. Good luck!
 
I gave more for my FB when I bought it. Some might even say to much. That being said mine came from out West and needed Zero Rust repair. Also I did not have to get nickeled and dimed to death at swap meets looking for pieces. So, I thought it was worth spending a little more to start with.
 
The OP says working on the car is therapy from stress of college. I agree with the therapy part and satisfaction of "fixing stuff. However it can be real frustrating taking on a BIG project if you have no experience with such. This car pictured is a major project for an experienced sheetmetal man!
Here is my rule of thumb for project cars for what it is worth: (others can add to or critique)
1. Start with as rust free,STRAIGHT< and complete car as as you find and afford.
2. Pay no more for a project than it is worth for parts! Yes if it a slant car, BUT if it say, a real (M or H code car), then you will have to add to its value for desirability.
3. Realize this is a hobby, YOU will have more in it for parts and materials than you will ever get back ot of it, n the foreseeable future.
4. Have deep pockets unless yo can do the body/paint work. If not, many times you are better off finding a done car worth the $,
5. It costs basically NO more to restore a slant car than a hemi car, other than the difference in initial costs of the project. . (yes assuming the hemi car came with its drivetrain!) Ha Same costs for sheetmetal, body/paint, mechanical work, interior, tires, frontend, brakes, exhaust, etc!!!! But work on a car you love!!!!
@@@#2: PS I should have added here, I pull the seats, take it to the car wash and powerwash it all, OUT comes 50 lbs of mouse/rats/possum /coon turds!!!!! Ha
 
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barbee6043 said:
The OP says working on the car is therapy from stress of college. I agree with the therapy part and satisfaction of "fixing stuff. However it can be real frustrating taking on a BIG project if you have no experience with such. This car pictured is a major project for an experienced sheetmetal man!
Here is my rule of thumb for project cars for what it is worth: (others can add to or critique)
1. Start with as rust free,STRAIGHT< and complete car as as you find and afford.
2. Pay no more for a project than it is worth for parts! Yes if it a slant car, BUT if it say, a real (M or H code car), then you will have to add to its value for desirability.
3. Realize this is a hobby, YOU will have more in it for parts and materials than you will ever get back ot of it, n the foreseeable future.
4. Have deep pockets unless yo can do the body/paint work. If not, many times you are better off finding a done car worth the $,
5. It costs basically NO more to restore a slant car than a hemi car, other than the difference in initial costs of the project. . (yes assuming the hemi car came with its drivetrain!) Ha Same costs for sheetmetal, body/paint, mechanical work, interior, tires, frontend, brakes, exhaust, etc!!!! But work on a car you love!!!!
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I'm doing all the body work and paint myself. It's a learning process for sure! I'm looking out for a body to swap mine onto.
 
FWIW Fuzz, floorboards are cheaper and easier than most sheet metal.

The prices to buy and install go up from there!
 
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