61 valiant turn signals ??
We've seen plenty of threads about ebay signal switches and cancel cams. End users tweaking the metal contacts and the plastics trying to make the parts work like they are supposed to. Cheep aftermarket junk is exactly that.
True, but none of that applies in this case. That's on '62-up cars; the OP here has a '61. There are no aftermarket options for his turn signal switch, just NOS Mopar parts. If they're intact when they arrive, they'll work fine once installed.
As for the R&R, it's not too difficult. The exact particulars of which screws go where are a little different from the '62-up switch swap, but the general idea is the same (and so are the tips and tricks to make it easy to work with the wiring):
Disconnect the battery negative terminal.
Remove the steering wheel's central ornament by grasping it and rotating it counterclockwise, then lifting it off.
Remove the ground wire from its terminal. Remove the three screws holding the horn ring/button and horn switch. Lift out the horn switch. Remove the steering wheel nut. Use a steering wheel puller to remove the wheel. Remove the turn signal lever from the switch. Remove the screws holding the switch to the column and lift out the retainer plate (if present).
The switch plugs into the under-dash wiring harness with a rectangular nylon multi-connector block at the base of the steering column (inside the car). You remove the nylon connector block by releasing each individual wire from the block, one at a time. This is achieved by means of a Terminal Extractor Pick (or, if you're in a hurry and don't want to spend money, a darning needle), inserted into the slot at the "front" (connector) end to depress the terminal's lock tab. Then a careful tug of the wire pulls it out the back of the connector block.
Draw yourself a diagram of which wire goes to which slot in the connector block.
Once you've released all the terminals from the block, tie a long piece of string or twine round the bundle of wires at the very end near the terminals. When you do this, stagger the terminals a little so they're not all bunched up in a big wad all together. Withdraw the old switch, which will pull the string up the column. Untie it, tie it round the wire bundle on the new switch, then pull the string to guide the new wire bundle down the column without any of the wires snagging and refusing to show themselves at the bottom.
Insert the wires into their correct locations in the terminal block, plug it back in, reassemble everything up top (make sure to match the steering wheel's double-wide master spline with its mate on the steering shaft).
Carefully reconnect the battery negative terminal, watching for fat sparks that would indicate something's the matter (if so, find and fix!). If no fat sparks, and everything's working…you're done!
Do yourself a favor while you're working on this system: Clean the front park/turn and rear brake/tail/turn lamp lenses in hot soapy water. If the reflector bowls behind the bulbs are at all dull or dark or peeling, stuff wads of masking tape in the bulb holes (or remove the sockets if they're the removable type), clean the reflectors with alcohol, then spray them with readily available "chrome" spray paint, which is practically ideal for the task.
Then install
these (specifically, do not substitute) in the brake lights, and
these in the front turn signals. You will need to swap in a new turn signal flasher,
this one (connect its ground wire conveniently). Result will be brighter/faster/better performance out of your brake lights, and reduced current/workload through the switch to maximize its lifespan.
