Electric Life power windows don't fit
You would need to cut the arm off before the scissor pivot, measure the length of the arm on your stock regulator and then cut the arm of the Electric Life unit past the scissor pivot to match the length of the stock unit. Tack weld that back together. The arm on the EL unit doesn't lower enough to bring the window all the way down, so you will need to drill out the spot welds and re-weld the arm at the correct angle. I just took my original regulator, installed it in the door and lowered the window all the way down. I used a t-bevel square to measure the angle and then tacked the EL arm back on at that angle. You then have to move the three regulator mount locations on the EL unit because they aren't in the corrrect location for the new arm length. I elected not to remove all the tabs since relocating and getting the geometry might be difficult, let alone more time consuming. I just moved the forward mounting hole back 2 1/8" (that's what the difference between the stock unit and EL unit was), then I drilled two new holes in the door to match up with the two other tabs on the EL unit. After that, I checked fit to see if everything worked and then finished welding everything on. Works Great! Maybe EL with make one before you need to do this. I am going to do what I can to encourage them, but as we all know, "It's not a Ford or Chevy", so don't count on it. Good Luck with your build.
You would need to cut the arm off before the scissor pivot, measure the length of the arm on your stock regulator and then cut the arm of the Electric Life unit past the scissor pivot to match the length of the stock unit. Tack weld that back together. The arm on the EL unit doesn't lower enough to bring the window all the way down, so you will need to drill out the spot welds and re-weld the arm at the correct angle. I just took my original regulator, installed it in the door and lowered the window all the way down. I used a t-bevel square to measure the angle and then tacked the EL arm back on at that angle. You then have to move the three regulator mount locations on the EL unit because they aren't in the corrrect location for the new arm length. I elected not to remove all the tabs since relocating and getting the geometry might be difficult, let alone more time consuming. I just moved the forward mounting hole back 2 1/8" (that's what the difference between the stock unit and EL unit was), then I drilled two new holes in the door to match up with the two other tabs on the EL unit. After that, I checked fit to see if everything worked and then finished welding everything on. Works Great! Maybe EL with make one before you need to do this. I am going to do what I can to encourage them, but as we all know, "It's not a Ford or Chevy", so don't count on it. Good Luck with your build.