Slick shifted a833 on the street?

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Killer6 said:
Slick-shifted one of Mine, left all of the teeth & syncro-sleeve splines on 1st gear, took every-other off the rest. Drove it around no problems, You just have to be willing to
learn how to shift & double-clutch, after You do it's easy-peasy. I could still downshift into 1st moving, but You really have to be "on it" to do so cleanly. With 4.89's, I didn't
have the need to suddenly, LOL!
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You're saying that you have to double clutch when you're just tooling around but wot just tap the clutch correct?
 
Makes sense.... I suppose if you quickshift while " tooling " around it would not grind. But on a normal shift the gears would get out of sync.
 
ok. shifting a slick shifted trans is like driving straight cut gear trans. you have to double clutch on up shift and down shifting!!! this lets the gears mesh and be at same speed , so will go into gear easily. on down shifting, you shift to neutral, let clutch out rap the throttle a little and push in clutch , trans will go into gear without grinding !!! I learned this driving a 1948 GMC truck back when I was a teenager. without grinding gears!!!! it's not rocket science. BTW, I shift my jerico this way, never grind gears!! when racing, , it's full on, power shifting. no letting up. no , you don'y have to come to a stop to down shift. can do it rolling.
 
perfacar said:
ok. shifting a slick shifted trans is like driving straight cut gear trans. you have to double clutch on up shift and down shifting!!! this lets the gears mesh and be at same speed , so will go into gear easily. on down shifting, you shift to neutral, let clutch out rap the throttle a little and push in clutch , trans will go into gear without grinding !!! I learned this driving a 1948 GMC truck back when I was a teenager. without grinding gears!!!! it's not rocket science. BTW, I shift my jerico this way, never grind gears!! when racing, , it's full on, power shifting. no letting up. no , you don'y have to come to a stop to down shift. can do it rolling.
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Thank you glad to talk to somebody who actually done it not somebody whose theorizing I do know how to double clutch I've driven old vehicles and I'm going to put that transmission back in still got to get the cover off and want to take a picture to see if there's even synchros in there. What do you think about the diaphragm clutch in the ceramic paddle discs? Drove them around for the last 2 years it's more like a toggle switch for racing?
 
Michael Meeks said:
Thank you glad to talk to somebody who actually done it not somebody whose theorizing I do know how to double clutch I've driven old vehicles and I'm going to put that transmission back in still got to get the cover off and want to take a picture to see if there's even synchros in there. What do you think about the diaphragm clutch in the ceramic paddle discs? Drove them around for the last 2 years it's more like a toggle switch for racing?
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You don't have to double-clutch going up, and yes you can tap the clutch or lift & stab the loud pedal, it shifts fast...it took Me awhile to actually time the foot action soon
enough as I found I was behind My shift arm with it. As far as a disc, You've got to use what will hold 1st, and then worry about getting the most friendly version second.
I had a cerametallic button disc unit w/a diaphram in My Dippy w/a 383 & nitrous, it wasn't strong enough tho' it engaged fairly reasonable, it left scoring in My flywheel
that diminished that smoothness to an extent.
 
Killer6 said:
You don't have to double-clutch going up, and yes you can tap the clutch or lift & stab the loud pedal, it shifts fast...it took Me awhile to actually time the foot action soon
enough as I found I was behind My shift arm with it. As far as a disc, You've got to use what will hold 1st, and then worry about getting the most friendly version second.
I had a cerametallic button disc unit w/a diaphram in My Dippy w/a 383 & nitrous, it wasn't strong enough tho' it engaged fairly reasonable, it left scoring in My flywheel
that diminished that smoothness to an extent.
Click to expand...
So what did end up using that worked? I plan on running this at the track too
20150727_195216.jpg
 
my comments about double clutching was in reference to street driving!!!1 not racing it. racing, it's flat on the mat and power shifted!! yes , you have to double clutch on upshift, as it will grind some. the name of the game is to shift without grinding gears on the street. it takes effort to accomplish this.
 
Michael Meeks said:
So what did end up using that worked? I plan on running this at the track tooView attachment 1715151438
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I never put another clutch in that car, I'd wasted 3 clutches prior to that one, and at least it was still in one piece and gripping. I wasn't aware of the less than sufficient
grip until I pulled it out and saw the evidence, just noticed the smoothness had degraded, probably would've been fine w/a stiffer cover. That one actually came from
Your neck of the woods, Rochester Brake & Clutch, They underestimated My 383's oats w/the nitrous and the weight of the Dippy a tad.
As far as upshifting around on the street, You can actually not use the clutch at all. Just pull it out of gear as You let off and as the revs go past the correct RPM just tap
the gas to "catch" it as You pull it in. Again, it takes practice and a feel for Your particular car, and timing. There is the added "klacking" when it engages because of the
gap in the teeth/splines, but with that it is what it is. If traffic conditions cause You to have to hurry the shift, You'll inevitably end up with a fist-full of gravel from time
to time, again that's life with one of those. As perfacar said, avoiding the grind is the goal. Not just because it's a tad embarrassing, but the tapered face gets beat up
on the gears and splines making future shifting worse. As far as "power-shifting" with the loud pedal down & just a clutch tap, that failed Me a couple of times, I had
much better results almost traditional shifting. But it is much less as far as degree of "let up" and barely "slapping" at the clutch pedal. JMO observation/experience.
 
Killer6 said:
I never put another clutch in that car, I'd wasted 3 clutches prior to that one, and at least it was still in one piece and gripping. I wasn't aware of the less than sufficient
grip until I pulled it out and saw the evidence, just noticed the smoothness had degraded, probably would've been fine w/a stiffer cover. That one actually came from
Your neck of the woods, Rochester Brake & Clutch, They underestimated My 383's oats w/the nitrous and the weight of the Dippy a tad.
As far as upshifting around on the street, You can actually not use the clutch at all. Just pull it out of gear as You let off and as the revs go past the correct RPM just tap
the gas to "catch" it as You pull it in. Again, it takes practice and a feel for Your particular car, and timing. There is the added "klacking" when it engages because of the
gap in the teeth/splines, but with that it is what it is. If traffic conditions cause You to have to hurry the shift, You'll inevitably end up with a fist-full of gravel from time
to time, again that's life with one of those. As perfacar said, avoiding the grind is the goal. Not just because it's a tad embarrassing, but the tapered face gets beat up
on the gears and splines making future shifting worse. As far as "power-shifting" with the loud pedal down & just a clutch tap, that failed Me a couple of times, I had
much better results almost traditional shifting. But it is much less as far as degree of "let up" and barely "slapping" at the clutch pedal. JMO observation/experience.
Click to expand...
That's funny this clutch is from Rochester Clutch and Brake same steered me towards this he was probably thinking that I was going to use it more on the street once again what did you end up using? I have an old Ram three finger I could use
 
Mine (still have it actually,LOL) has 8 cerametallic buttons on each side, full disc w/a sprung hub(8 heavies), cover just needed a little more load to hold it enough. It
never flared or ran away in 4th w/the juice on, but by the time I had that 383 really crankin' w/o it, I made the switch to the 4.89's. Never scaled the Dippy for an
accurate #, certainly heavier than Your '69, ....nice one BTW.
 
Killer6 said:
Mine (still have it actually,LOL) has 8 cerametallic buttons on each side, full disc w/a sprung hub(8 heavies), cover just needed a little more load to hold it enough. It
never flared or ran away in 4th w/the juice on, but by the time I had that 383 really crankin' w/o it, I made the switch to the 4.89's. Never scaled the Dippy for an
accurate #, certainly heavier than Your '69, ....nice one BTW.
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How are you from Rochester?
 
Michael Meeks said:
Are you from Rochester?
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No, I sent My flywheel to them, and the specs I could give about My car as accurate as possible. They built the clutch/cover set-up and balanced the whole thing and shipped
it back to Me. They were featured in Mopar Action in the very late 80's or early '90's, E-booger & Co. were in proximity and used them for one of their projects, they were
satisfied and gave them a thumbs-up for working with them.
 
Killer6 said:
No, I sent My flywheel to them, and the specs I could give about My car as accurate as possible. They built the clutch/cover set-up and balanced the whole thing and shipped
it back to Me. They were featured in Mopar Action in the very late 80's or early '90's, E-booger & Co. were in proximity and used them for one of their projects, they were
satisfied and gave them a thumbs-up for working with them.
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They moved from Central Park in the city of Rochester to Victor New York which is about 20 miles away
 
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