The only question is whether they provide adjustment. It doesn't matter whether the adjustment range is 1/4 to 1 turn out, or 1.5 to 3 turns out. These needle valves are the last restriction in the circuit. The lack of noticible effect after opening them up more than 1.5 turns could be due the amount of fuel mix available (restrictions upstream and amount diverted through transfer slots), or that a richer mix isn't providing any more power.
If it has an internal pull-off (choke qualifier) the adjustment is under the choke cap as shown in fig. 15. Even if it is physically there, it may not be connected to a vacuum passage. All things worth verifying.
I have read other guys needing to open up the idle feed restrictor to get them to run properly, that's why I was planning on trying the same since I also see kinda lean cruise AFR (16:1).
It does have the internal pull-off, and it is connected to a vacuum passage. I will take a look at this again, since it's been a while.
Yes. A cold engine needs to be richer throughout most of the power band.
That seems a little high for a radical but if running good, then that's fine.
For your cam, seems about right. What's the rpm? 800 or 1200 is big difference.
With 13"Hg at idle, I'd think you could use it in normal load mode, but deal with that later. My recollection is the Wagner allows some adjustment of the air bypass. So the nice thing is you can use this feature to help adjust the throttle blade positions if needed. ( Say for example its idling at 1200 rpm and the timing is already down to 14"Hg or so)
IIRC, I'm at 1000RPM in park and get about 150RPM drop into gear. I have planned to try set it up in normal mode later on when everything else is setup right.
The purpose of timing is to develop maximum pressures as the piston is going down - maximizing force on the crank arm around 20 degrees after top provides the most leverage.
Yes we have all observed the engine runs faster with more timing. But its not more powerful. When load is put on it, rpm drops alot.
The starter should not be the determinant of the proper timing at idle. That's OK for racers who have no interest or easy means of adjustment because of what they are doing and the very radical cams etc.
Timing should match the combustion conditions which vary with piston speed, fuel density and load.
For a stronger idle, try something in the range of 14 - 18* BTDC at 650-850 rpm, and AFR mix from 12.5 to 14 AFR. There's no exact number since your engine is different than the next guys this has to be systematically tested 'till you get it as close as you want. But the range of what will work has been pretty well established. You can look at the pre-emissions factory engines to see these numbers are in the ballpark for an engine with somewhat hot cam
Oh man, I have been too hung up seing other people with tight LSAs (longer duration though) even running locked out timing. I will try to lower initial timing! Would RPM drop be the correct indication to look for? Adjust initial for the least RPM drop into gear?
AFR on idle is hard to read, due to the valve overlap. :(
