Doug's or TTI headers

I did TTI-636A's in my 66 dart, 408, eddy heads. My reasoning was A. I like one piece headers and have a borderline psychotic hatred for 2 bolt flanges and slip joints.
B. The dougs couldnt handle the power im making AS WELL as the TTI's....so my decision was easy.

Required items to remove/modify:
Steering column and torsion bars.
modify the trans mount to clear a RH pipe - super easy

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED items to modify/check/remove:
The union "T" for the brake hard lines - relocate it. just do it.
Make damn sure whatever starter you plan on using will fit correctly. My O.E. mini nippy DID NOT fit how it was supposed to - Im running a TF904 - should have been fine - not even close. Called TTI about it and they claimed it was due to "jig variations"....oooookaaayy.....anyway I had to use a clockable powermaster unit and barely dimple the #5 runner to clear.
When you relocate your brake "T" fitting and make new lines, remove the master cylinder - youll thank yourself later.
I used Nord-loc washers on my header bolts - ive gone back through to check and see if any of them worked themselves loose - not a single one has. Im impressed. Also, I used percys seal-4-good flange gaskets. works well.
My 66 was a factory column shift car - I had to cut off the last 1.5" of the steering column tube to clear the last runner - once again, no biggie since it was already out.
oil filter - most people use the factory 90 deg. adapter and then cuss when its time to service the engine because its a pain to get to.
I didnt see a single mention of using a remote adapter with TTI's, only people saying "well TTI says it wont fit so no, they dont fit"
Well surprise!!!!! just like how the starter was "supposed" to fit, a canton 90 degree remote adapter WILL fit reeeeealy snug with a little bit of clearancing on the housing - theres PLENTY of meat in the canton housing to do so without affecting its integrity.
Evidently no one thats tried to mount an adapter with TTI's has ever heard of a grinder.....
Same goes for the factory brace bars that go from the lower portion of the bellhousing to the side of the block - with a bit of clearancing, they DO fit as well.
Did you build a heat shield between master cylinder and header?