318 Power, with real street manners ?

The problem with "most" web forums, is that the mindset is "backyard street outlaws". Everyone starts out on topic. But it does not take long before we post things like 4.10 gears,tons of machine work, and high dollar parts (aluminum heads).
My post was to be able to turn a mid 14 second run (maybe twice a year at the track). And would not drive like it's a 10 second race car on the street.And without spending a ton of money to go mid 14 seconds. And if possible , get fair MPG's. After all it is a street car. And they are not much fun if they suck every dollar out of your wallet at the pump. When they get to that point...well you just don't drive them all that much!
And since I have a 318. Should I use it, or find a 360 ? I also will be using a 3.23 rear gear, and a lockup 998 trans.
I've gotten a lot of good information. But easy to get caught up in the "full on 1/4 mile mind set". I understand that. There was a time in my life that was my mind set also.
Well, IMO, use the engine you want to use. I have zero issue with the 318 & think that building what you have vs. spending more money on what you don’t have is a winner. While the 318 lacks torque and requires a little more into the build than a larger engine, there really is nothing wrong with the 318.

Mild 14 second car? Depends on if it needs a rebuild or not. No rebuild needed ? Then I would;

600 cfm carb on a dual plane, headers into a 2-1/2 exhaust
(FVtory iron intake and a TQ would do well.)
Excellent ignition
Cam @ .050 of 220 with more exhaust with matching valve springs.
(A good example is the Comp Cams XE268 Hyd. cam. Or similar speced cam.)
2200 stall
Shift kit
3.23 - 3.55 gears
Wide tires

If it needed a rebuild, same as above but the new slugs would be the KB hyperU’s or a forged slug set at or very near zero deck.

Calculate your compression ratio first!

Iron head at NO higher than 9.5-1 will be great.
Then again you could always follow Ma MoPars advice by clicking the below link in my sig area!