a body rear end ? 8 3/4 vs dana 60

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roccodart440 said:
exactly and when you get the dana cut to the CORRECT dimension for your A-body (narrower than stock) the weight is barely any different.
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"Correct" for who?

The "correct" width for a rear axle the one that works with the wheels you want to use. And that depends on a lot of things. Spring location, mini-tubbed or not, 15 rims, 17/18" rims (or bigger), body style- Dart vs Duster, the rim you really want to use that only comes in a really weird offset...

I use a B-body rear axle in my Duster that's 3" WIDER than the A-body axle. And guess what? It's the "correct" width for my car with 18x10's and 295/35/18's.
 
72bluNblu said:
]"Correct" for who?[/I]

The "correct" width for a rear axle the one that works with the wheels you want to use. And that depends on a lot of things. Spring location, mini-tubbed or not, 15 rims, 17/18" rims (or bigger), body style- Dart vs Duster, the rim you really want to use that only comes in a really weird offset...

I use a B-body rear axle in my Duster that's 3" WIDER than the A-body axle. And guess what? It's the "correct" width for my car with 18x10's and 295/35/18's.
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Exactly. It will vary.

While the measurement may change from car to car you can definitely go narrower than stock if you are having one made. The factory setup uses all backspacing, especially with the inboard kit. 7.5" of so if my memory is right.

So you can, if you want, have one made narrower, offsetting some of the weight difference. I know with mine Strange said my Dana weighed near exact what factory width 8.75 weighs.
 
Gotta add my 2 cents. Biggest problem with the Dana 60 is neglect. So good that you will forget its even there and that leads to neglect. I put one together using a truck housing, new sure grip,Cooks axles and green bearings. 5.38 gears for a couple of years than 4.88 Richmond street gears. Installed it in my big block dart over 30 years ago. Ran a 4 speed with 30 lb flywheel, clutchflight with same flywheel,metal disc,no marcel,solid hub and autos with 8" converters. No trans brakes. Always 12 to14" slicks. Never any problem. Not one. The same 88s do have a bit of extra backlash now however. For trouble free fun you can't beat a Dana.
 
What would you narrow a dana 60 to if narrower than an A body? 67 Cuda,no mini tubs planned,stock spring hangers. Stock 7.5 width is narrower than other A bodies anyway I think??
 
cuda620 said:
What would you narrow a dana 60 to if narrower than an A body? 67 Cuda,no mini tubs planned,stock spring hangers. Stock 7.5 width is narrower than other A bodies anyway I think??
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I would pick my wheels and tires, then size the rear axle to center them in the wheel houses.

And with no mini-tub or spring offset, I wouldn’t go narrower than A-body width anyway, it really isn’t going to get you anything unless you have wheels with a large negative offset. Now, if you were planning a mini-tub and spring relocation with 15” wheels, going narrower would be a good idea.
 
cuda620 said:
What would you narrow a dana 60 to if narrower than an A body? 67 Cuda,no mini tubs planned,stock spring hangers. Stock 7.5 width is narrower than other A bodies anyway I think??
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I narrowed my dana as far as you physically can with a mini tub. That requires a 3.5" backspace wheel. But like 72nblu said, you need to buy your wheels and then select your rear end width.
 
70aarcuda said:
the 8 3/4 is not a very efficient rear end due to the placement of the ring gear so low on the pinion gear...the dana 60 is much more efficient rear end...and the 9 inch furd is less efficient then the 8 3/4

swapped out a 8 3/4 for a strange dana 60....has not slowed the car down one bit..fact given the weather conditions I think the car is running faster with no other changes..
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Agree w/ this post. Alaso when u start blowing 8 3/4`s, you`ll need to pull the trans and check it , if its a 727.
 
roccodart440 said:
exactly and when you get the dana cut to the CORRECT dimension for your A-body (narrower than stock) the weight is barely any different.
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Jim Hale told me he lost weight when he changed to a dana 60 >w/ a caltrac system, because of the diff. weight of them and the superstock springs. That was on 67 barracuda nhra stocker.
 
famous bob said:
Jim Hale told me he lost weight when he changed to a dana 60 >w/ a caltrac system, because of the diff. weight of them and the superstock springs. That was on 67 barracuda nhra stocker.
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I'd believe this. My dana weighs the same as a stock 8.75.
 
roccodart440 said:
I'd believe this. My dana weighs the same as a stock 8.75.
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interesting wheel offset. My dana 60 has disc brakes, and am running a real 3/4" offset on the rear springs, and my mine take a 3 1/2" offset to be perfect. I am running a 4'' offset w/ a .497 spacer to make it right , as of now.
 
Don’t mix up backspace and offset, they’re totally different measurements.

And without listing your car model, suspension modifications, axle width, rim dimensions and tire size just giving your backspace could totally mislead someone. A 3.5” backspace would be a mess on a stock width axle unless you’re talking about a 6” wide rim and skinny little tires. Or a massive rake and tires hanging out in space like a 70’s street freak.
 
I agree with everyone on this but I think we need more info
1 are you using a fuel cell or a stock tank do you have room for the Dana
2 what about exhaust were will it go
3 how much power are you going to have to the rear wheels
4 how much does the car weigh and where is the weight. If the front is heavier than the back can you save weight in the front and help with traction Putting more weight in the back with a heavier rear axle will just slow you down.
I think there is a lot more going into this decision.
If you have good parts in a 8 3/4 meaning axles, bearings no crush washer and a nice tight clutch type posi unit they are plenty strong for an automatic but if you are running a stick with slicks and it’s tubed and you have a very wide tire the Dana maybe a better way to go
If I was going to run a Dana I would spend the extra on the Strange 60 it uses adjuster just like the 8 3/4 so you do have to worry about the thin shims walking out and you loosing the back lash setting. Also you can have it made to the correct width for your car and the wheel and tire size you want to run.
There’s my two cents but at least you have some more to think about so you can make the best decision for you and what you want to do
 
hemi446 said:
I agree with everyone on this but I think we need more info
1 are you using a fuel cell or a stock tank do you have room for the Dana
2 what about exhaust were will it go
3 how much power are you going to have to the rear wheels
4 how much does the car weigh and where is the weight. If the front is heavier than the back can you save weight in the front and help with traction Putting more weight in the back with a heavier rear axle will just slow you down.
I think there is a lot more going into this decision.
If you have good parts in a 8 3/4 meaning axles, bearings no crush washer and a nice tight clutch type posi unit they are plenty strong for an automatic but if you are running a stick with slicks and it’s tubed and you have a very wide tire the Dana maybe a better way to go
If I was going to run a Dana I would spend the extra on the Strange 60 it uses adjuster just like the 8 3/4 so you do have to worry about the thin shims walking out and you loosing the back lash setting. Also you can have it made to the correct width for your car and the wheel and tire size you want to run.
There’s my two cents but at least you have some more to think about so you can make the best decision for you and what you want to do
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1. Stock tank. However moving the rear back required notching the tank to clear rear. Stock position was fine.
2. Out the back, to bumper
3. 600-650 at the crank off the spray
4. ?
5. A comparable 8.75 costs about 5200$ from strange. About 2,000 more than a comparable dana.
6. I run an S60 with a eaton tru trac diff. Rated for 1,000hp.
 
roccodart440 said:
1. Stock tank. However moving the rear back required notching the tank to clear rear. Stock position was fine.
2. Out the back, to bumper
3. 600-650 at the crank off the spray
4. ?
5. A comparable 8.75 costs about 5200$ from strange. About 2,000 more than a comparable dana.
6. I run an S60 with a eaton tru trac diff. Rated for 1,000hp.
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1-stock new tank
2-3 1/2" dumped in front of the axle
3-supposed to be 723 at the crank, normally aspirated, w/ f.inj.
4-3273 w/o driver. no idea of front to rear.
5- about $2100 including disc brakes, and Detroit locker, 3:73 gears. old truck rear , shortened. no snubber provisions/ not needed w/ caltrac system. clears tank , but a little close.
 
Would 30 spline Dana 60 be stronger than the 8.75 ? Budget building. I know 35 spline is stronger, but have a power lock that’s 30 spline. Thanks!
 
cuda620 said:
Would 30 spline Dana 60 be stronger than the 8.75 ? Budget building. I know 35 spline is stronger, but have a power lock that’s 30 spline. Thanks!
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The axles aren't usually the weakness in an 8 3/4, the pinion tries to climb the ring gear and breaks teeth off. IIRC Dr Diff has the gears to change to 35 spline axles.

My 408 broke the 8 3/4 in my Dart on the second pass it hooked up, the Richmond gears had about 60 passes and a couple thousand street miles on them and new bearings. This was on a 275 radial. I rebuilt and sold the complete differential, also had to take the transmission out and apart for inspection.

I moved the springs into the frame, mini tubbed, bought new wheels and tires then ordered a new Strange S-60. I went from a 275 to a 325 tire and from 4.30 gears to 4.10's and the car picked up everywhere form the one clean pass it did make with the 8 3/4 with no other changes.

My rear end is moved back 1" and has scraped the stock gas tank a couple times just enough to scratch the cover paint.
 
Sounds like the 60’s the way to go then. I’m modifying a dodge small tube truck 60.
 
yes the dana 60 is big in that little space . doing a customer build with a dana 60 , with stock width and spring placement . making thing interesting . he desided on 11x2 1/2 brakes . backing plates are close to the shock plates and i needed to modify his sway bar brackets and shock plates do to that tight fit and the 5/8'' u bolts for the dana axle housing
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justinp61 said:
My rear end is moved back 1" and has scraped the stock gas tank a couple times just enough to scratch the cover paint.
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I moved mine back 1.5" and have the aluminum cover. I had to notch my tank.
 
Did you move it back cause you wanted to or cause you had to? Thanks.
 
its that short front spring thing , 20'' center bolt to spring eye . my 63 b bodies use the same length . had to mod the fenders a bit . instead of changing the wheel base . makes for easier weight transfer .
 
pomonamissel said:
its that short front spring thing , 20'' center bolt to spring eye . my 63 b bodies use the same length . had to mod the fenders a bit . instead of changing the wheel base . makes for easier weight transfer .
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I used to believe that total BS too.... Trust me it makes ZERO difference and I have the cars to prove it in both variations. One just costs a shitload more than the other to accomplish.

Purple car was moved back 1.5" and the silver one has the stock wheelbase with modded quarters. Both cars have the same tires. 28x12.50's. They both run 11's, they both 60 ft the same.

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660ft June 14th 2015.jpg


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