I have a mini denso i am in the process of wiring up. The blue and green wires going to the regulator on the firewall you attach together to eliminate the external regulator. That is your input sense wire. Typically the denso aftermarket has 2 terminals in a T shape config, and an output stud. Terminals are labelled i and L. For ignition and light. I also took some time to wire up a small red light on my ammeter gage i converted to volts.
The way the light circuit works is when ign is on but car isnt running the L circuit shunts to ground internally in the alternator turning the light on. When you start up the car, and its producing electricity that circuit contactor shuts off and the light goes out. If the alternator goes off line while the car is running the circuit closes and the light goes on warning you of a fault.
Theres a nice kit thats sold to use a Toyota mini denso out of a 4 runner i think. I made my own mounting brackets, and spacer, and used a mini 50 amp one advertized for a small block chevy. Dont forget to upsize your output wiring, and bypass the bulkhead connector completely and run it straight to the battery with either a maxi fuse or fisable link in line. The stock 12GA output wiring was never meant for anything above 30 Amp. Neither was the bulkhead connector. Notice the red output lead. In the pic. Its 8GA marine grade AWG copper. I used a 12GA fusable link i made to protect it. Pico wiring sells the fusable link wiring in bulk to make them up yourself.
Heres pix of my install being mocked up. I used .125" thick 7475 T6 aluminum plate, and the spacer i made from steel blackpipe i got from home depot. I turned it on a lathe at work to make sure the ends were straight. Adjuster bolt is 13mm which equates to 1/2" wrench size. This little 50Amp powerhouse weighs almost nothing which is the other reason i used aluminum plate for the brackets, the first reason is i had to make mounting brackets to install it anyways. It feels solid w the aluminum brackets, but if they start to crack, i will remake them out of 1/8" steel plate.
Hope this helps
Matt
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I am not going to go head to head w/ anybody on the 1 wire alt. not working, or argue about any elec. issue. I am not knowledgable enough to do so. I did rewire my 68 fastback w/ an EZ 12 circuit wiring kit. I wanted a one wire set up, and had an alternator built by an old established company out of Kansas. It`s a 130 amp , 1 wire, GM unit, that sets under my motor plate where the fuel pump should be. I let my 505" wedge set for weeks at a time, w/ no battery drainage. I did have to increase the size of the charging wire that goes to the relay on the firewall/close to where the heater motor used to be,that's hooked to my trunk mount battery. Take time to read all these guys suggestions and make ur own mind up !! A one wire will work and keep even a big engine charged. Am I lucky? I don`t know !
