Need help tuning Quickfuel carb

Heres some help
Buzz the engine up to 2500 and set it there.
While it's revving, you can grab the distributor and twist it either way and observe the change in rpm.........and header temp. At 2500 the engine, in N/P ,is gonna want more than 45* advance, maybe closer to 50 or even 55. This is what the Vacuum advance can is for;to give her what she wants. If you don't light the fire soon enough,the still burning mixture will continue to burn in the headers.....and if it finds fresh air in there from a leaky header flange gasket, even more so.So if you already know about such a leak.......fix it now.
If this helps, and you don't have a Vcan, then stop the test and install one! If you do have one, prove it's working; they are adjustable.
Then retest. If this clears it up, then you may have to recurve the D for the operational Vcan.

But if you still have issues;
Get yourself a heat gun, and buzz the engine back up to 2500.
Let the temp in the headers stabilize. Then completely cover and SEAL the secondaries, like jam a rag in there. Note any change in rpm, and note any change in header temp. If this helps, then shut her down and fix the open secondaries. Then
Return the fast idle to 2500, and again note the header temp. Now start closing the choke,or covering the airhorn with a second bunched up shoprag; little by little. If the Rpm rises, continue until it stops, and note the header temp.
From this testing it should be easy to sort out an overly rich mixture from an overly lean one.
Also note that at 2500 and vehicle parked, the boosters should NOT be flowing. You can just reach in there and put a finger on each booster and it should make ZERO difference to the engine.
At 2500/vehicle not moving, the carb should still be on the transfers, she doesn't care what size MJ is in there.
But if you still have rich issues
then I suspect your Power Enrichment System is not shutting off properly.
OK so that's the best I got