Need help with converter

Etor said
Hi, i want to change my converter as recommended in an other thread. I have a offer by PTC. PTC wrote me this: "We offer a 9.5" street strip converter for this combo. It will flash around 3000 to 3500 rpm's. It is a direct replacement converter. We run 7/16 x 20 holes in our billet front. You may have to drill flexplate holes."
Questions: What flexplate do i have now in my stock car (what holes?)? Is it a good idea to drill holes yourself? What flexplate could i use with the PTC converter without drilling holes?

Here my combo:
72 Dodge Demon, 3350 lbs, Stock 1972 LA 318, A904, Stock heads, Stock 2bbl intake with Carter BBD (i may change to Edelbrock Performer 2176 and Edelbrock 650 AVS), Stock cam, TTI headers to Dual exhaust 2.5“, 8.75 axle with suregrip 3.91 ratio.

I only drive on the streets, no track. With the stock converter i’m not happy. The car is a dog off the line. I want to have a quick acceleration in a optimal torque curve with the new converter.
Thanks, Etor

Like others have said, with what you've got for your engine setup, a converter over 2400 is too much for your engine. From the factory, there were two converters used with the 318/904 combination. Both would be what is called an 11" converter, and will have a 1" wide ring gear. There were two stall speeds, one around a maximum of 2000 the other around 2300. They way to tell the difference is the factory placed a decal on the converter body. One decal is tri-angular in shape and says "lo stall", the other is egg shaped and says "high stall". The addition of a manifold, carb, and exhaust system won't add enough horsepower or torque to justify anything much over 2400.
I don't understand why PTC would say you need a billet cover, 9.5" converter. The converter company I worked for prior to retirement might suggest one of their Pro Street converters with a stall of 2400-2500. The 7/16" mounting holes were only on race converters unless a customer requested them.
I hope this helps.