Remove glass fuses without breaking them?

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66DartSedan

66DartSedan

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Okay, so I just changed my fuses, but I cannot for the life of me, take each one out without breaking them. I looked behind each fuse and theres no mechanism to push them out.
 
I use a pocket screw driver and hook them on the end not the middle, they will break every time
 
If you're using any kind of a metal tool, disconnect the battery negative cable first.

The plastic fuse puller is the best/safest/easiest way.
 
slantsixdan said:
If you're using any kind of a metal tool, disconnect the battery negative cable first.

The plastic fuse puller is the best/safest/easiest way.
Click to expand...
Thank you. Ive made a habit of always taking off pos+ and neg- cables from the battery when i work on anything.
 
No need or benefit to pull both cables, just pulling one cable does exactly the same thing: cuts power to the whole car. Always make it the negative cable—or if you have a reason to need to pull both cables, like you need to replace the battery, always pull the negative cable first, before pulling the positive cable. Conversely, always install the negative cable last, after installing the positive cable.

The reason why: If you disconnect the positive battery cable first, you're putting a wrench on a terminal that is hot with respect to virtually every piece of metal within wrench-length's reach. Swing the wrench too far, drop the wrench, sneeze and jerk the wrench, and you're looking at hundreds of amps flowing through the wrench in a big hurry. The wrench will quickly weld itself in place, your hand can turn into a handburger, and you can have a real emergency on your hands in a couple blinks of an eye.

If you disconnect the negative cable first, you only have to worry about the location of the wrench relative to the positive battery terminal. All other metal in the vicinity is in common with the ground terminal, so even if you misplace the wrench, nothing bad will happen. This is worth considering when installing the battery cable terminals: Try and clock them such that when you put a wrench on the negative terminal clamp nut, it swings in an arc that does not move the other end of the wrench towards the positive terminal.
 
Keep in mind, the cheap dollar store fuses are garbage.
Buy littlefuse or buss fuses.
Cheap ones sometimes dont carry the rated amperage, and fail inside the metal caps. Creates a diagnostic nightmare.
 
I use a hooked dental pick to get under the end of the fuse and lift it out that way. If it's being stubborn, just a drop of any break-free stuff (like PB Blaster) applied with a toothpick will give it just enough assistance it will usually come loose.
 
slantsixdan said:
No need or benefit to pull both cables, just pulling one cable does exactly the same thing: cuts power to the whole car. Always make it the negative cable—or if you have a reason to need to pull both cables, like you need to replace the battery, always pull the negative cable first, before pulling the positive cable. Conversely, always install the negative cable last, after installing the positive cable.

The reason why: If you disconnect the positive battery cable first, you're putting a wrench on a terminal that is hot with respect to virtually every piece of metal within wrench-length's reach. Swing the wrench too far, drop the wrench, sneeze and jerk the wrench, and you're looking at hundreds of amps flowing through the wrench in a big hurry. The wrench will quickly weld itself in place, your hand can turn into a handburger, and you can have a real emergency on your hands in a couple blinks of an eye.

If you disconnect the negative cable first, you only have to worry about the location of the wrench relative to the positive battery terminal. All other metal in the vicinity is in common with the ground terminal, so even if you misplace the wrench, nothing bad will happen. This is worth considering when installing the battery cable terminals: Try and clock them such that when you put a wrench on the negative terminal clamp nut, it swings in an arc that does not move the other end of the wrench towards the positive terminal.
Click to expand...

Just remember "NiPPoN" when dealing with a battery
(Negative, positive-then-positive,negative)
 
I suppose the little kit of assorted fuses and fuse puller is still on store shelves. I haven't needed to buy another one for many years. Another one of those "Everything except gloves in the glove box" items. You might fish a length of vinyl case banding or similar around the fuse but... The proper tool doesn't break the bank.
 
Last edited:
66DartSedan said:
Okay, so I just changed my fuses, but I cannot for the life of me, take each one out without breaking them. I looked behind each fuse and theres no mechanism to push them out.
Click to expand...
And when replacing them, put on a dab of dielectric grease and You won't have that problem again.
 
I replaced all my glass fuses with something like this:

Converta-Fuse.JPG
 
This tool works both glass tube and blade type fuses.

5AE8939C-6806-4635-AB5B-EA51656C2903.jpeg
 
66DartSedan said:
Okay, so I just changed my fuses, but I cannot for the life of me, take each one out without breaking them. I looked behind each fuse and theres no mechanism to push them out.
Click to expand...
I have one of the plastic pullers you can have. PM me your address and I will drop it in the mail on Monday.
 
If You don't have a good hook/clip style puller, You can fish a flat shoestring or ribbon thru & around the backside and pull them right out.
Me likey those cadapters...............
 
Do what I did and just swap out the whole wiring system, then install a 21 circuit system:wtf:. Then you have more then enough circuits to run anything you ever want later, including power windows, locks, fan, fuel pump and fuel injection. Or maybe like my wife calls me "Captain Overkill". I'd rather have to much than not enough.
 
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