Fitech/crossram project

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Hard to find out on the street, it's kinda scary, but it pulls like a freight train on nitrous
THAT'S good news ... I don't do adjustment plates ,I am guessing, a traditional NOS plate. It's to see it Fi ,working with spray...
 
Those are just edelbrock heads rebranded as mopar
Sweet project! I'm guessing you didn't have to weld in those internal dams. I've been watching this thread with interest due to my concern of damaging my STR-12, and your use of the R3 block. Hope you'll have a vid soon of this beast.
 
No, I didn't weld any dams in the intake, just been driving it. I may at some point, but it runs flawlessly, so I can't see why I need to?
 
Sorry, what cylinder head is that exactly?

I did some reading in the dams in the intake and it is for air flow. It would s to help balance out the intake.
I very strongly feel it could use more cylinder head, but it's pretty awsome as it is.
 
At 410 cubes, I agree on more cylinder head even if the engine is dumbed down. The head, IMO, is good for mid range hopped up 360 engine with the 170cc head runner. It’s not a bad head. There’s just a gap in MoPar small block heads.

I have a set of Edelbrock heads on my 360 and it performs very well for what it is and what they are. I have no illusions that it’s going to click off mid 10’s OOTB. But it is a really good street head.

On your 410, I would think it would barf torque all over the street with plenty left over in reserve. It’s gotta be a hand full! Once the day comes for extra monies to be spent on the heads for porting, it’s going to raise the bar really well and I’m sure it will put a perma-smile on your face.

Sorry, quick question on probably prior posted information but what’s the cam style/spec? Still the purple 292/509?
 
At 410 cubes, I agree on more cylinder head even if the engine is dumbed down. The head, IMO, is good for mid range hopped up 360 engine with the 170cc head runner. It’s not a bad head. There’s just a gap in MoPar small block heads.

I have a set of Edelbrock heads on my 360 and it performs very well for what it is and what they are. I have no illusions that it’s going to click off mid 10’s OOTB. But it is a really good street head.

On your 410, I would think it would barf torque all over the street with plenty left over in reserve. It’s gotta be a hand full! Once the day comes for extra monies to be spent on the heads for porting, it’s going to raise the bar really well and I’m sure it will put a perma-smile on your face.

Sorry, quick question on probably prior posted information but what’s the cam style/spec?
Well, the paperwork that came with the engine said it's a 292/509 iirc, the same hyd flat tappet mopar put in the 380 horse crate motors. It does have just GOBS of low and mid range torque, I would imagine a switch to a modern custom grind solid cam and a port job would do wonders, but it's almost uncontrollable on the street as it is.
 
Ehhhh, that’s all right. We all learn to take wild horses. :lol:
The 292 has a bunch of duration @ 050. Just no high lift to take advantage of the high cylinder head flow. It’s not a huge deal IMO as it is right now. I agree that later, it would be a nice improvement. But I’m sure there’s a lot in front of it that needs your attention and money first.
Hey have to laugh my *** off at A-holes at car meets that have similar thoughts on things like this on my cars. I show up the following week with no changes and they comment with, “Why didn’t you ....”
Yeaaaa, like I’m the US government ready to throw money away at a problem, real or not, overnight just to make them happy.
ROFLMAO!!!!
:rofl:
 
Well, the paperwork that came with the engine said it's a 292/509 iirc, the same hyd flat tappet mopar put in the 380 horse crate motors. It does have just GOBS of low and mid range torque, I would imagine a switch to a modern custom grind solid cam and a port job would do wonders, but it's almost uncontrollable on the street as it is.
what rear gears are you running?
 
4:10, but after I make a few strip passes in a few weeks to see what it will run, I plan to swap to a 3:55
interesting, from some of the reading I've done it's said that low gears (high numerically) are recommended to keep the rpm's up, but that's with the Holley List 4295 carbs....your set-up is obviously going to fair better
 
Yeah, this intake was developed at a time when the 340 most most relevant on the street/strip, and I would imagine a 340 would be a little soft on the bottom end. The 4" crank in this engine makes it totally street able though. In fact this combo makes more low end than the previous well tuned 850/M1 combo did.
 
Yeah, this intake was developed at a time when the 340 most most relevant on the street/strip, and I would imagine a 340 would be a little soft on the bottom end. The 4" crank in this engine makes it totally street able though. In fact this combo makes more low end than the previous well tuned 850/M1 combo did.
Hey replicarracer43, can you share what motor oil you use for your 410? Is it with high zinc?
 
Would love to see (hear) a video of this beast. Very impressive build. Glad it all worked out.
 
Sorry forgot about weight. Multi grade or single? I have been using 30 wt straight. But may consider different weight. 30 wt seems harder to find.
 
I'd like to know more about the FItech end of this such as:

How do you have what amounts to two complete EFI systems set up?

Why did you go with two of them instead of something else such as an MS or Holley HP computer and two throttle bodies, etc?

Did you disable one computer in the FItechs or do you have to tune each of them separately?
 
Took the duster out today for its first cruise, but first I gotta say, it really doesn't like cold starts, I noticed after removing one throttle body after a minute or so of trying to get it to run, it appears the fuel tends to "fall out" of suspension and try to puddle in the intake, if you rev it a bit, it seems to stay cleared out. And after there is a little heat in the motor, it cleans up and runs good. The road test was better than expected, I am very pleasantly surprised at how well it really does run!
I ran mine with a single spread bore DP and never had cold start issues but im in so. Cal where chokes are optional, not mandatory. Mine ran fine part throttle and even idled at 700 with a 284/484 MP cam. Your EFI takes the average of all the unburnt gasses and O2 and adjusts it on the fly (IIRC with that system) you can find your fat or lean cylinder with an EGT on a header pipe if you want to delve into intake revision and all that crap. Im wondering if a MSD E-distributor could be tuned to give a little more advance on a fat cylinder to aid in combustion of a less than ideal A/F? Something maybe a racer could chime in on. That is a sweet project!
 
I'm sure there are more sophisticated systems out there, BUT this thing ran so well, I saw no reason to look any further.
 
I'd like to know more about the FItech end of this such as:

How do you have what amounts to two complete EFI systems set up?

Why did you go with two of them instead of something else such as an MS or Holley HP computer and two throttle bodies, etc?

Did you disable one computer in the FItechs or do you have to tune each of them separately?
The system I used was designed as a dual 4 system. It has a computer in one of the throttle body's, the other just has injectors
 
The system I used was designed as a dual 4 system. It has a computer in one of the throttle body's, the other just has injectors

So is this something "as built" (as sold) from FI tech or did you modify it or what?
 
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