IMM Engines 408 build

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I'm starting to get itchy fellows...:thumbsup:

After the dyno session with HP/TQ numbers in hand I have to contact Edge converters and have the converter custom built.
 
I'm starting to get itchy fellows...:thumbsup:

After the dyno session with HP/TQ numbers in hand I have to contact Edge converters and have the converter custom built.
Good to hear you are going custom on the converter. Much needed IMHO
 
If I may ask?
Did you send him your motor or is he building this for you?
What is the total cost all in?
I have a 360 sitting in my garage that I would like to play with on the cheap side if I can, Non Magnum
 
Good to hear you are going custom on the converter. Much needed IMHO

It's going to me a "billet" converter with 2400-2600 stall. Andre at Edge converters said the stock converter wouldn't last long behind the 408.

If I may ask?
Did you send him your motor or is he building this for you?
What is the total cost all in?
I have a 360 sitting in my garage that I would like to play with on the cheap side if I can, Non Magnum

I just let IMM get a core engine and build the 408 from it. I didn't have another engine laying around and didn't want to disable my daily driver. The engine from my truck will be set to the side and possibly built into a stroker to go in my cuda.

Cost... hmmmm well I can say it's over $7k. The cost depends on what you use inside the engine. I could have saved a little by going with a cast crank instead forged. The build actually didn't need to have a forged crank but I went with it anyway. Used forged pistons as well. As you know could have saved some more by furnishing my own engine.

Call IMM Engines and get a quote on a build you have in mind. With such a good reputation on this forum I feel confident I made the right choice letting Brian build me a engine.
 
Engine got dynoed today.
Made 446HP and 481TQ
I've been wanting a engine that will eat the 5.7 Hemis...now I have it. lol




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Brian delivers again. Just like mine. I bought the parts from Brian that he recomended, put it together, 20+ more hp than he quoted it should make!
 
Ordered my custom billet torque converter from Edge. It cost me $603 total to the door.
Geez those things aren't cheap! :mad:
 
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Thats not bad for a decent converter. My race converters cost $1200
 
It's going to me a "billet" converter with 2400-2600 stall. Andre at Edge converters said the stock converter wouldn't last long behind the 408.

7k is CHEAP for a 408 ...

I just let IMM get a core engine and build the 408 from it. I didn't have another engine laying around and didn't want to disable my daily driver. The engine from my truck will be set to the side and possibly built into a stroker to go in my cuda.

Cost... hmmmm well I can say it's over $7k. The cost depends on what you use inside the engine. I could have saved a little by going with a cast crank instead forged. The build actually didn't need to have a forged crank but I went with it anyway. Used forged pistons as well. As you know could have saved some more by furnishing my own engine.

Call IMM Engines and get a quote on a build you have in mind. With such a good reputation on this forum I feel confident I made the right choice letting Brian build me a engine.
 
Congrats,
I, like you am on the edge of my seat. Just got my engine off of the dyno on Friday. I am extremely happy, almost giddy with the results. I am STILL waiting on my Doug's 453 ceramic coated headers but I hope that I can get it in the car next weekend. I think that you are going to really be pleased with your engine, sounds like a BEAST!
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If I may ask?
Did you send him your motor or is he building this for you?
What is the total cost all in?
I have a 360 sitting in my garage that I would like to play with on the cheap side if I can, Non Magnum
Do google search on 5.9 Sledgehammer. That will get you the magazine articles and youtube videos on the budget Magnum 360 build that IMM did. The results would be just as good with an LA based build, only difference being your LA will likely require an overbore to get rid of the ridge at the top and straighten the cylinders.
Cost will vary for each build depending on what your block needs. If you have the shortblock done locally and just get the EQ heads from IMM, you may save a little on shipping costs. If you don't plan on doing any of the assembly yourself, contact IMM directly with as much detail about your car and intended use and they will give you the best quote they can without having your block in hand to know what it will need. Any further questions will likely justify a new thread so we don't jack this one too much. It's a sweet build thread.
 
Well I got the engine running yesterday but it is running like crap.:(
Have to take it somewhere ... hook it to a scanner... and have the injectors sycned to the cam. The tuner guy said I need it set at "Fuel sync (+8 to +10)"
He's going to tune it for me but all I have ever heard of was maybe +4 and for stock applications it is always set at 0. I will do what he says since he has tuned a bunch of engines.
 
Very much looking forward to more updates when you get it sorted out. In the mean time, how about more photos, since you have it installed?
 
Ordered my custom billet torque converter from Edge. It cost me $603 total to the door.
Geez those things aren't cheap! :mad:
Really ,that's DIRT CHEAP for a good quality custom converter, Mullie . The out of the box loose GOOSE 3500, are 5 bills plus. ..
 
Very much looking forward to more updates when you get it sorted out. In the mean time, how about more photos, since you have it installed?

Not much to look at... just a truck engine... no pretty attachments...lol
I had to switch out the injectors back to the stock type injectors because it was running way to rich. I will install the Ford racing injectors once I get the correct tune.
I bought some wire separators for the spark plug wires but have not installed them yet.
Have a small leak on the drivers side header since I reused the old header gaskets but have ordered some Remflex gaskets.

Drove the truck a little bit yesterday keeping a eye on the wideband gauge... don't want it running lean. With the new stall converter it will come out of the hole much faster than it used too. Plus the additional torque and ponies. Tire spin is no problem now..lol
Backfiring through the throttle body and surges coming to a idle but that's because the fuel sync is not correct.

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What part of the world are you located in
Ryan hogan is supposed to have a good handle on tuning these magnum engines while using the factory ecm
I’ve never used him personal but do plan to
Houston Texas area is where he is located but email tuning is available
 
What part of the world are you located in
Ryan hogan is supposed to have a good handle on tuning these magnum engines while using the factory ecm
I’ve never used him personal but do plan to
Houston Texas area is where he is located but email tuning is available

Ryan is supposed do the tuning for me once I get everything straighten out.
 
Well I got crappy lifters in my engine IMM built for me and have a bad lifter or lifters. I noticed every time I crank the engine up after it has been sitting for a short while the lifters would clatter :(


I emailed Brian and he said "Usually over-revving or overstressing the lifter will do this also to a completely normal lifter so hard to tell."

The engine has around 40 miles on it and I can tell you I have not over revved the engine because the fuel sync has not been set and the proper tune has not been applied. I have not even got close to giving it the gas. Also I'm not one of those guys that just revs a engine at high RPMs while in park or neutral.

It's not a exhaust leak since sometimes it will not tap at all. The paper work for the engine just states "OEM lifters"

I'm thinking they are Comp Cam lifters installed in this engine.. china

So... here I go taking the intake off and switching out lifters.

I will install a known good name brand lifter like Morel, or Hylift Johnson. A lifter that can with stand stress or over revving since I like to do that don't you know. :)

While I'm in there I will change out the cam as well .. something that will perform better than what was dreamed up and just threw in there.




 
You sure that's not an exh leak???
I would hate to see you pull the motor apart and spend more $$$ if you don't need too.
 
I doubt those are Comp lifters in a Magnum engine. Probably Mopar Performance, or Sealed Power, something like that since he said OEM replacements. Those usually hold up decent if the spring pressures are not rediculous, which these shouldn't be. Probably just one lifter having issues. Can you tell which cylinder, or at least which side is making noise?
Also curious why you want to change the cam? Dyno numbers looked pretty stout.
 
I have been chasing some noisy lifters in my magnum. It's a .030 over stock stroke. Using Hughes EQ heads, springs, and cam. Nothing wild, springs are matched to the cam according to Hughes. I've tried different oils and filters and it makes noise on starting after sitting for a day or two. I replaced a couple weak lifters and made no difference. Ended up replacing them all and it's slightly better. I used Melling lifters and have great oil flow to the lifter bores. It's pretty noisy and somewhat embarrassing.
 
Make sure the bleed holes in the lifters are facing to the inside of the engine (cam side).
If the holes are on the outside they will bleed down, then are noisy at startup. If you
need to replace the lifters get Rhodes you will not regret!
 
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