I may have messed up here.....

I'll explain as best I can... Your cam is 284 degrees of duration (gross duration) so the intake valve starts to open 35 degrees of crankshaft rotation before TDC ( top dead centre), this is known as IVO (intake valve opening). Your Intake valve closes 69 degrees after BDC (bottom dead centre ) this is known as IVC on the cam card. So on the compression stroke the piston has already traveled 69 degrees of crankshaft rotation before it even starts to make compression. 35+180+69=284. Now your cam has a LSA (lobe sepperation angle) of 112 degrees, in other word the lobes are 112 degrees apart from centerline to centerline (most of the time this is also the max lift of the lobes, but this is not always the case with super fancy custom cams....) You cam, and most cams have "advance ground in" which means when installed @ 0 degrees they already advanced. In your case 5 degrees. So you subtract 5 from the intake 112 to get 107 and add 5 to exhaust 112 to get 117. If you are looking at the end of the cam and have the first to lobes lined up equally they are essentially rotating the cam 5 degrees for you. if you install the cam at true 0 you will be retarding it 5 degrees so the intake will open later at 30 degrees BTDC and close later at 74 degrees ATDC. 30+180+74=284. The engine therefore has less degrees of crankshaft rotation to build compression 180-69=111 degrees of crank rotation for the advanced setting vs 180-74= 106 degrees of crank rotation for the true 0 install. This is part of how you figure out dynamic compression. As for effects, typically advancing the cam helps with low end torque and retarding it increases top end power. There is lots more to it of course.... Some good reading here.

Valve Timing Events and the Order of Importance - Engine Builder Magazine

Lots of things go into choosing a cam. Engine specs are just part of it. Weight of the car, rear end ratio, tire size, transmission, torque converter, all play a roll. Also of course the expected outcome, how much power do you want? and when? do you want a smooth idle and vacuum for power brakes or accessories? Is a little rump at idle good? is a lots better?

I built my engine around having a smooth, stock like idle while maximizing power within those parameters, I could run a much bigger cam but I don't want to, some people would have for sure.