Trick to Removing Parking Brake Handle

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1969VADart

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I have a rather simple question. I am looking to replace my worn out parking brake handle on my 69 Dart. The replacement one clearly has a pin (like a tensioner) that passes through the handle to hold it on the brake rod. It seems apparent that the original does as well. My question is how the hell do I push out the factory pin that seems to be frozen in the existing handle? Is there a trick to this, or just a really big hammer (and maybe a specific tool)? Any advice would be appreciated.
 
I'm in the same boat. I saw a pin press that looks promising but I don't know if the pin is the right dia or if the throat is the correct size.

I bought a set of roll pin punches to try on my broken handle once I have it out of the car.

The trick would be to keep the replacement handle from getting damaged taking it off

I decided when I change mine ill just remove the entire assy and replace it as a unit.


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Try a small punch and drive the roll pin out and just drive the new one in that comes with the new handle.
Was simple since i just did mine
 
I sacrificed the old handle by using a dremel wheel. Pliers for the roll-pin.
 
A Plumbers Faucet handle puller will do the trick to remove the pin.
 
A Plumbers Faucet handle puller will do the trick to remove the pin.
First hand experience?

What tool brand / part number did you use?

That looks promising! Put padding between the handle and the jaws.
 
Any idea what dia the center pin is?
For the price I think I will try it on my current 1/2 handle on the car
 
I used to work in a Plumbing Supply over 30 years ago and this was one of the tools we would get to sell to plumbers. No name or number to supply you with. The point is a little too thin for the pin in the handle. To make it work use a solid nail the size of the pin and cut it down to about 1/2" long and that will get it working. Really don't have to protect jaws if you're replacing a broken handle. Pin on the tool is about 1/16" and a shade too small for the pin.
 
Really don't have to protect jaws if you're replacing a broken handle.
Agreed on the part you are removing. But in my case (1967 is an odd ball year and the 68 and up repros are not the same) I would have to remove one from a doner assy which I could do on the bench but if the tool works well why not use it.


To make it work use a solid nail the size of the pin and cut it down to about 1/2" long and that will get it working.

I see what you are doing there.

Got an idea (Tim Taylor grunting going on in my head) cut the pin off the threaded rod. Drill the end out to accept a pin the correct size, or better yet a roll pin punch, the type with the round dimple on the end.

OOH (More Tim Taylor grunting going on in my head) and to protect the replacement handle drill a hole into a piece of oak or other strong wood the ID of the handle OD and cut it in half to form a cradle for the jaws to hold. could be used with a small c clamp to put the handle back on too!

Thanks for the info.
 
If you want to try to drive the pin out and back in again in the car, you're going to need a length of 4X4 or similar tight fit between that handle and the cars floor. Too much bounce/lost blow with some support.
 
If you want to try to drive the pin out and back in again in the car, you're going to need a length of 4X4 or similar tight fit between that handle and the cars floor. Too much bounce/lost blow with some support.

That certainly makes sense. Probably explains why I have made zero progress while banging away at it in the car. I guess I will have to give the 2x4 trick a try. Thanks.
 
Pull the pivot pin clip and remove and the cable cotter pin to disconnect it and remove the one nut on the bottom of the dash frame and remove the whole thing so you can work on the Bench. Just as easy as trying to fight it. Don’t forget to unplug the parking brake wire.

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When I said support under the part I was thinking vertical pin but the pic above shows horizontal pin. If so, Support placed toward center hump or door jamb?
To take the thing to the workbench is the best plan.
 
Agreed. Just take out the whole thing and work on the bench.

I replaced the black handle on my Duster. I drilled a hole (about the same diameter as the handle diameter) into a piece of 2x4 then I cut the 2x4 down the center of the hole making a half-moon shape to cradle the handle to keep it from breaking. I also drilled a hole at the bottom of the half-moon so that the pin can go into when driven out. I placed the handle in the wood cradle and drove the pin out using a punch. Do the reverse to install the new handle. I hope this all made sense.
 
Pull the pivot pin clip and remove and the cable cotter pin to disconnect it and remove the one nut on the bottom of the dash frame and remove the whole thing so you can work on the Bench. Just as easy as trying to fight it. Don’t forget to unplug the parking brake wire.

View attachment 1715158263

Guess I didn't realize it is that easy to take out. Will give that a try for sure.
 
Guess I didn't realize it is that easy to take out. Will give that a try for sure.

Well you still have to lay on your back to do it, which is tuff. Once out though it is very easy to pop out that spring pin and replace the handle. There is no support per say to drive it out and if you have access to a tool as shown in post 10 all the better not to pull the assembly. Best wishes for you to get it done!
 
Well I managed to get this done, but it was a much bigger PITA to drive that pin out of the brake handle than I anticipated. Figured I would clean up the parts and a little paint before I reinstall it. Pulling the whole assembly out was definitely the way to go though. Thanks for the advice to everyone.
 
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