SAW THIS AT O'RILEYS

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Bigdummy

Bigdummy

Not a Nova
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DONT KNOW IF THIS IS A GOOD PRICE OR NOT!
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Back in '72, I asked my parent's mechanic to use Penzoil racing oil (20w-40) when he serviced their new '71 Road Runner. It wasn't until many years later I found that racing oils are non-detergent (to prevent foaming), maybe not the best for a daily driver.
 
dibbons said:
Back in '72, I asked my parent's mechanic to use Penzoil racing oil (20w-40) when he serviced their new '71 Road Runner. It wasn't until many years later I found that racing oils are non-detergent (to prevent foaming), maybe not the best for a daily driver.
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Oils of today are far different then oils used to be. Choose the wrong one and you maybe replacing a camshaft. The worst the Zinc will do in a newer engine is plug up the O2 sensor and that is only after prolonged use.
 
20w50 is the best protection for hydraulic or flat tappet(pre roller) motors. It stick to rotating parts. It was the oil that all motors ran in drag racing until the early 90's. Yes, PS cars run 0w10 but they get torn down often and they need to make every possible HP and have big budgets. It doesn't make much difference until you are under 9.50. Just get the motor warm if you are at the track and your car will be consistent. Don't know about the high end road race cars but the rest run 20w50.
 
Many oval track guys run a 10-30 as long as the bearing clearances are "normal"...
 
A/MP said:
20w50 is the best protection for hydraulic or flat tappet(pre roller) motors. It stick to rotating parts. It was the oil that all motors ran in drag racing until the early 90's. Yes, PS cars run 0w10 but they get torn down often and they need to make every possible HP and have big budgets. It doesn't make much difference until you are under 9.50. Just get the motor warm if you are at the track and your car will be consistent. Don't know about the high end road race cars but the rest run 20w50.
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I gotta be diff. , we ran straight 40 or 50 weight , depending on what my "little ' sponsers gave me .------back then !
 
Personal opinion. That is too heavy for a drag car. A circle track or road course car, might be able to use it. Their oil builds a lot more temperature. I have always run 10w-30 in every thing I own, and have never had an oil related failure. Proved a point to a friend, some years ago. Put 3 passes on my "stock eliminator" car using 10-30. Change the oil and filter, at the track, to straight 30, and did 3 passes. Then changed back to 10-30, and 3 more passes. Averaged the et of each set of runs. The 10-30 passes averaged .150 quicker in the 1/4 mile.
PA: same brand of oil.
 
Charrlie_S said:
Put 3 passes on my "stock eliminator" car using 10-30. Change the oil and filter, at the track, to straight 30,
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That's funny, when warmed up to operating temperature 10-30 and straight 30 should have the same viscosity, that's what the second number "30" means. The "10" would be a thinner viscosity when cold. Therefore, in my opinion, quicker elapsed times with 10-30 versus straight 30 don't jive with the science of oil viscosity at higher temperatures, unless the time trials were done with a cold motor.
 
dibbons said:
That's funny, when warmed up to operating temperature 10-30 and straight 30 should have the same viscosity, that's what the second number "30" means. The "10" would be a thinner viscosity when cold. Therefore, in my opinion, quicker elapsed times with 10-30 versus straight 30 don't jive with the science of oil viscosity at higher temperatures, unless the time trials were done with a cold motor.
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Exactly correct. That is my point. In a drag car the engine doesn't run long enough to get the oil up to full temp. Circle track, or road race, different story.
 
In that case, seems prudent to install an oil temperature gauge in the bottom of the oil pan. I had one installed in my parents showroom new 1971 Road Runner. I remember the oil temp took way longer to normalize than the coolant temp. I forget what the normal oil temp was, i know it was 20-30 degrees warmer than 212.
 
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