To Sleeve or Not to Sleeve?

Jesus Chrysler said
So it is written, so it shall be done!

I talked to the machine shop today and he said he would sleeve it for $150. I will scour the internets for an unmolested block over the next month or so and if I can't find anything local for $300 or less I will take the block I have to be magnafluxed and the sleeved pending a passed magmaflux check.

On stuff like what you have with a big crack like that, or even a hole (I've sleeved many cylinders that had massive cracks and golf ball sized holes in them...one was a 390 ford...I don't remember how the piston got off the rod...I think the piston came apart at the wrist pin...anyway it shoved the pin end of the rod right out the block...good thing was it went right out a core plug hole!!! So it didn't do any damage to the block, just the bore and put a golf ball sized hole, maybe a bit bigger in the cylinder) so I used the 1/8 wall sleeve and not the 3/32 wall sleeve. I also, just to give myself a bit more to work with, I look at the sleeve chart and find one that is very close to bore size.

Let's say you are working on the belly button brand of engine (the dread Chevy with a 4.00 bore) and you are already .030 over so now you want to be at .040 to fix it all. Look at the chart and find a sleeve that has about a 4.04 bore instead of a 4.00 bore. This leaves more sleeve after bore and hone and it will be more rigid. I'd rather have a sleeve that I have to machine more off to make it fit (meaning it will stick further out of the bore when set) and just trim more off of it rather than try and set a sleeve that may not be long enough.

Hope that makes sense.