Instrument Cluster Removal
Some other pointers and tips:
• Good idea to put in
this updated instrument cluster voltage controller. Plugs right in.
• Don't expect anything on the cluster to work if it's not mounted in place. Everything grounds via contact with the metal dashboard, so if it's pulled and you hook it up most stuff won't work and you can get weird current paths making things do stuff that isn't supposed to happen.
• The ammeter is a trouble point worth paying attention and money to. A good ammeter-to-voltmeter conversion can be done very cleanly without looking hacked. I strongly UNrecommend the hack-job "fix" proposed by the clowns at MAD Electrical; you can do much better. How much it costs depends on whether you do the work yourself or have it done for you.
Redline Gauge (website perpetually in development; call them on the phone) and
Williamson's Instruments can both do a stealth conversion of stock ammeter to voltmeter for "it must've come that way from the factory!" appearance as seen in the '62 Plymouth
here (look closely at the instrument panel; the Alternator gauge now has a scale from 8 to 18 volts rather than the original D at the left and C at the right -- and the oil pressure gauge is another never-offered-by-Chrysler item done by one of the gauge specialty houses).
For less money (but more work) I've also seen people successfully buy a Sunpro voltmeter, tear it apart, and mount the old ammeter face over it with excellent, clean results; see
here and
here.
• Might as well service the speedometer and cable (see
here).