904 just gave up

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Frodee

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My 904 was just rebuilt last May and added a new gear vendor over drive.
took the old girl to town and went around a corner and she wouldn't go for a few seconds so headed for the parts store to get tranny fluid thinking I was low and on the way for tranny fluid it kept slipping or just like putting it in neutral. Added fluid 1 quart then she was fine again so headed back home witch is 20 miles got within 5 miles of my house and she wouldn't go just like putting her in neutral. towed her home and removed the oil pan had plenty of fluid and real clean.
I do have it under warranty but before I take the old girl to the shop is there any thing that might be s simple fix or could it be my gear vendor that's the problem.
And I am not a tranny expert at all.
 
It sure sounds like the fluid was never topped off and the TQ converter is trying to fill up, going around a curve and it quits like that sure seems like it was low .
I am not a tech here so just give our bunch of good folks time to chime in .
 
It sure sounds like the fluid was never topped off and the TQ converter is trying to fill up, going around a curve and it quits like that sure seems like it was low .
I am not a tech here so just give our bunch of good folks time to chime in .
Hey memike glad you chimed in. I just put a aluminum oil pan on 2 extra quarts so I added more fluid and checked the dipstick after warming it up and read full I do have a leak in my tranny some ware and planed on taking it back to the tranny shop it's a small leak, and when I broke down I added another quart and still nothing. But sure sounds like it's low on fluid.
 
It sure sounds like the fluid was never topped off and the TQ converter is trying to fill up, going around a curve and it quits like that sure seems like it was low .
I am not a tech here so just give our bunch of good folks time to chime in .
it should be easy to confirm, just check it fully warmed up, in neutral, on a level surface. Check it multiple times, making sure you have legible, consistent readings (front and back on dipstick).
Have you got correct setting on kick down adjustment?
 
Hey memike glad you chimed in. I just put a aluminum oil pan on 2 extra quarts so I added more fluid and checked the dipstick after warming it up and read full I do have a leak in my tranny some ware and planed on taking it back to the tranny shop it's a small leak, and when I broke down I added another quart and still nothing. But sure sounds like it's low on fluid.
ok, that might be important. Did the extra deep pan come with a pickup extension?
 
I would put on jack stands and check fluid and run it. I had the pump lugs break off, instant neutral. Just saying, hope it works out.
 
I would put on jack stands and check fluid and run it. I had the pump lugs break off, instant neutral. Just saying, hope it works out.
if you do that, please note that it will still have to be level for checking fluid level.

I don't know if your app is similar situation or not, but I took my stock 66 sl/6 Dart w 904 to the drag strip, and cracked the converter to front pump drive dogs on the converter neck.
 
ok, that might be important. Did the extra deep pan come with a pickup extension?
yes on the pickup extension and in stalled, and not sure on the kick down adjustment never touched it but I'm sure the tranny shop set it when they installed the new tranny. would that cause problems if it was not set right?
 
if you do that, please note that it will still have to be level for checking fluid level.

I don't know if your app is similar situation or not, but I took my stock 66 sl/6 Dart w 904 to the drag strip, and cracked the converter to front pump drive dogs on the converter neck.
how do I check to see if that's what I did.
Good old slant 6 great engine.
 
just checked how much fluid I drained out of the tranny 7 quarts. So looks like my tranny leak is worse than I thought. added 2 quarts in a 35 mile drive.
so my next question, how long would it take to fill the toque converter if it was low.
 
There should be fluid in the converter. Plus still in lines and cooler. Put fluid in and warm engine to temp. Trans in neutral check and service. Go through the gears back to neutral check again until full. Good luck!
 
it doesn't take long if it is idling in neutral. For some reason, it fills much slower in park. My 01 ram 3500 v10 auto w/ 200k on it, doesn't fill for a minute or so in Park, but drop it into neutral and it fills in a few seconds it seems.
 
one thing I ran into once, when I tried filling an empty trans too fast is that you can actually get an airlock and it won't accept anymore fluid. So, don't rush it and dump the fluid in too fast.
 
how do I check to see if that's what I did.
Good old slant 6 great engine.
you know that happened so long ago, I don't remember if I towed it home or if I limped it home. I do know that it was leaking fluid out of the front seal area of trans. Local TF guru, said it was fairly common occurrence for the converter neck to crack on 904's. When I pulled it, damned if he wasn't dead on right. I don't know if or when Ma Mopar redesigned that converter neck flaw.
 
There should be fluid in the converter. Plus still in lines and cooler. Put fluid in and warm engine to temp. Trans in neutral check and service. Go through the gears back to neutral check again until full. Good luck!
one thing I ran into once, when I tried filling an empty trans too fast is that you can actually get an airlock and it won't accept anymore fluid. So, don't rush it and dump the fluid in too fast.
So when I put the tranny pan back on should I fill the pan first or start it then fill it slowly.
my converter is aftermarket 2500 stall and new, but could be the problem or my gear vendor and have no idea how to check it out till monday and call them.
 
So when I put the tranny pan back on should I fill the pan first or start it then fill it slowly.
my converter is aftermarket 2500 stall and new, but could be the problem or my gear vendor and have no idea how to check it out till monday and call them.
I think you could put in a qt or two, then start it and add the rest at a reasonable pace. it's not a race, hahaha.
 
So when I put the tranny pan back on should I fill the pan first or start it then fill it slowly.
my converter is aftermarket 2500 stall and new, but could be the problem or my gear vendor and have no idea how to check it out till monday and call them.
if the converter is aftermarket, you may not be as susceptible to the stock converter neck cracking.
 
if the converter is aftermarket, you may not be as susceptible to the stock converter neck cracking.
sounds like a plan rustycowll69 gonna get new fluid and filter and try that.
The shop that rebuilt it told me to use dextron synthetic seems to me from what iv'e been told that in the older style trannys it's better not to.
 
I read that the newer fluids do not cause as much foaming as the older types like ford f type. So I think the fluid you are gonna use should be fine.
 
I read that the newer fluids do not cause as much foaming as the older types like ford f type. So I think the fluid you are gonna use should be fine.[/QUOTE
thanks for the help you guys on this forum are a good people.
 
Fred
IIRC you are splitting gears with that GV right?
If yes,
they require a good amount of driveshaft rpm to stay engaged. They do not work well with hiway gears at slow speeds. When slowing down,they can lose pressure and drop into neutral for a bit and then bang into direct. So just a heads up if you were in a split gear and forgot to disengage it.
When fresh mine could stay engaged at a stoplight, but as it aged it would drop out.
With 4.30s it never dropped out on me, and I could ask for a split right on the start line, and it would give it to me as soon as it had built up pressure.
With 3.55s I don't usually ask for a split below 30 mph
I'm not using their little control module.
 
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sounds like a plan rustycowll69 gonna get new fluid and filter and try that.
The shop that rebuilt it told me to use dextron synthetic seems to me from what iv'e been told that in the older style trannys it's better not to.
as far as I know the +4 mopar atf ( I use Valvoline +4) is fine in the older TF''s as well as the newer trannies. I think the only exception is the new 8spd auto which takes a special clear-colored fluid. very expensive, and a pita to change.
 
Fred
IIRC you are splitting gears with that GV right?
If yes,
they require a good amount of driveshaft rpm to stay engaged. They do not work well with hiway gears at slow speeds. When slowing down,they can lose pressure and drop into neutral for a bit and then bang into direct. So just a heads up if you were in a split gear and forgot to disengage it.
When fresh mine could stay engaged at a stoplight, but as it aged it would drop out.
With 4.30s it never dropped out on me, and I could ask for a split right on the start line, and it would give it to me as soon as it had built up pressure.
With 3.55s I don't usually ask for a split below 30 mph
I'm not using their little control module.
Good to here from you AJ you my friend have thought me a lot.
when I put the car back to gather I decided to run the rpms up to 6000 the old car liked it and me to.
Was splitting gears and had no problems at that high of rpms but only tried it a few times it worked good. and never used the gear vendor to slow down always waited till I got out of over drive to slow down.
yea mine will not engage until I get around 40 mph.
What do you think AJ could I have toasted my over drive or tranny or like normal am I just being to stupid to see a simple problem.
 
as far as I know the +4 mopar atf ( I use Valvoline +4) is fine in the older TF''s as well as the newer trannies. I think the only exception is the new 8spd auto which takes a special clear-colored fluid. very expensive, and a pita to change.
thanks but the expensive stuff is not in my budget
 
AJ how did you do away with the gear vendors little black box?
 
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