Which 360 oil pan is shallow ?

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Retroboy

Retroboy

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Hello. I have a front sump oil pan on my 360 about 7" deep. I need a shallower or a rear pan might help. These are the only pans we had in Australia. What do I need and does someone have something to sell me.
Cheers
 
What are you installing it in???

A truck engine needs a rear sump pan...

Car pans have a center sump pan...

Early a-bodies (64-66) need some scallops to clear some of the steering linkages...
 
Women who say that size doesn't matter are shallow.... :rolleyes:
 
It's in a FED and my current pan is 7" give or take I have about 1 1/2" ground clearance. I would like a little more that's all
 
If it fit's your auto I would remove it and have a shop cut an inch or two off and replace the bottom, we do it all the time to make them bigger, no big deal at all
 
Retroboy said:
Hello. I have a front sump oil pan on my 360 about 7" deep. I need a shallower or a rear pan might help. These are the only pans we had in Australia. What do I need and does someone have something to sell me.
Cheers
Click to expand...
I have a 360 pan with center sump valley available if interested. PM for pics.
 
Kevco oil pans will custom build anything to your specs, very reasonable price too. That's what I would recommend.
 
Retroboy said:
Hello. I have a front sump oil pan on my 360 about 7" deep. I need a shallower or a rear pan might help. These are the only pans we had in Australia. What do I need and does someone have something to sell me.
Cheers
Click to expand...
My stock one measures exactly 7 inches deep
 
krazykuda said:
What are you installing it in???

A truck engine needs a rear sump pan...

Car pans have a center sump pan...

Early a-bodies (64-66) need some scallops to clear some of the steering linkages...
Click to expand...
Krazy,
Could you post a photo of the scalloped oil pan.............if you have one? I have to pull the pan off the 360 crate engine that's in the D/Dart and modify it. Didn't know about the scallop otherwise I would have pounded it in while it was on the car. It's worn mighty thin in the center link area on the left side of the pan.
Alan
 
ddartdude said:
Krazy,
Could you post a photo of the scalloped oil pan.............if you have one? I have to pull the pan off the 360 crate engine that's in the D/Dart and modify it. Didn't know about the scallop otherwise I would have pounded it in while it was on the car. It's worn mighty thin in the center link area on the left side of the pan.
Alan
Click to expand...

I'm not sure of the exact one... That's why I'm hoping that the six nub one that I have will do...

Here's a thread on what oil pan to use to install a 360 in an early A:

1966 Valiant/Barracuda 360,What oil pan
 
krazykuda said:
I'm not sure of the exact one... That's why I'm hoping that the six nub one that I have will do...

Here's a thread on what oil pan to use to install a 360 in an early A:

1966 Valiant/Barracuda 360,What oil pan
Click to expand...
Thanks for the link. Was hoping to see a modified 360 pan since it would be cheaper than buying a new one. And I'd know it would fit. I have a Schumacher motor mount kit in the car and Doug's headers. Not to much wiggle room under there. Oh, and it's a 4-speed.
 
ddartdude said:
Thanks for the link. Was hoping to see a modified 360 pan since it would be cheaper than buying a new one. And I'd know it would fit. I have a Schumacher motor mount kit in the car and Doug's headers. Not to much wiggle room under there. Oh, and it's a 4-speed.
Click to expand...

Dougs headers and you are concerned about a cheaper oil pan?:D
 
TrailBeast said:
Dougs headers and you are concerned about a cheaper oil pan?:D
Click to expand...
The entire drivetrain was in the car when I bought it. It was installed back around 2000 but never street tested. I reassembled a bunch of the car and did a few test runs. Maybe 20 miles total. I have the car on a lift and noticed the center link is rubbing a hole in the pan. I'd spend the money on a new pan if I knew it would solve my problem. Willing to spend the money to have the existing pan modified. Just want to be guaranteed it won't leak oil.
 
ddartdude said:
The entire drivetrain was in the car when I bought it. It was installed back around 2000 but never street tested. I reassembled a bunch of the car and did a few test runs. Maybe 20 miles total. I have the car on a lift and noticed the center link is rubbing a hole in the pan. I'd spend the money on a new pan if I knew it would solve my problem. Willing to spend the money to have the existing pan modified. Just want to be guaranteed it won't leak oil.
Click to expand...

Yea, I was just kinda teasin ya.
There isn't a reason in the world a half decent welder couldn't modify it for you, and no leaking would be on the shoulders of the welding and installation.
 
Retroboy said:
It's in a FED and my current pan is 7" give or take I have about 1 1/2" ground clearance. I would like a little more that's all
Click to expand...
Retroboy,
Sorry for hijacking your forum. I just measured my 5 quart, center sump 360 Mopar crate engine pan and it's 7" deep. It's sits entirely above the bottom of the cross member. If you cut your pan to get more ground clearance, you're going to reduce the quantity of oil that it holds. I'd weld a 1/4" or 5/16" skid plate on the bottom of the pan to protect it and leave it at that. That's what they did back in the day to protect them. My D/Dart has a Ted Spehar fabricated 10 quart oil pan on it with a 1/4" skid plate and it looks mighty beat up. The bottom of that pan is about 2" off the ground.

And what is a FED anyways?
Alan aka DDartDude
 
krazykuda said:
What are you installing it in???

A truck engine needs a rear sump pan...

Car pans have a center sump pan...

Early a-bodies (64-66) need some scallops to clear some of the steering linkages...
Click to expand...

You forgot one, 71 and older trucks were front sump to clear the straight axle.
 
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