Another Painless wiring question

-
meathead66

meathead66

Mod Top
Joined
Jan 19, 2008
Messages
762
Reaction score
384
Location
Tinley Park Illinois
Since the Painless wiring kit I bought doesn’t address or provide a wire for the backup lights circuit of the NSS what would you suggest I use for the +12V connection of the safety switch. I used their 5 amp source which is for the radio, dash lights and reverse lights but “pops” the fuse when I move the gearshifter through the gears when I go to reverse. Could use the +12V directly on the start relay but that’s a bit crowded already. I changed the 5 amp to 10 amp which seemed to fix the problem however don’t know if I’m overloading that curcuit. Whatcha think?
 
enough chit chat
 
Last edited:
These Painless wiring systems just make me die laughing! The whole painless thing! LOL Look you're still wiring in your car with old wires or with new LOL there's nothing painless about it except for the name! LOL great marketing strategy!
 
I love to see the prices on these Painless wiring kits to! LOL I mean really aren't these a bunch of colored wires all going to a generic fuse box? Myself I brought a roll of wire and ran one wire from the electric fans all the way to the switch. I ran a wire from the electric water pump to its which. I ran a wire from the fuel pump to a switch LOL and so on...
I just never could understand how someone could pay hundreds of dollars for a bunch of wires cut to length with their own colors? And still have to do all the wiring anyways???
 
That was all real helpful guys. Thanks for helping the OP out. [/sarcasm]

OP, going to a 10 amp fuse you are probably ok. I would put the car in reverse, turn on everything else on that circuit, and feel the various wiring in the circuit along with the fuse itself and see if it is getting hot. Getting hot you have too much on it.
 
The "NSS circuit" if that is what you are really talking about draws very little current. The original circuit path is.........

Center pin of the transmission switch (NSS) comes from ground..............goes up the firewall and connects to one flag terminal on the STARTER RELAY.........through the RELAY COIL.........out the remaining flag terminal.........yellow start wire...........through the bulkhead...........to the "start" terminal of the IGNITION SWITCH.

I bet it does not draw 1 amp in normal operation

You either are mis-describing what/how you have wired, or have it wired wrong, or are talking about backup lights, etc??
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top