Thermostat housing bolt

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Futzy1

Futzy1

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Doing a simple thermostat replacement, I managed to snap the head off one of the bolts on my 73 day 225 slant. Where do I get a new one??
 
I was wondering about that. So I had stopped in just in case I got that answer. They had something close but the OE looks like it inch and a quarter, whereas they had inch, and inch and a half. Think I'll be ok running it while I wait for the "proper" bolt?
 
Unnecessary to go galvanize, these are often poor quality. Standard grade 5 to get the length you want or if you must, stainless or grade 8 are really over-kill.
 
Quite often its easier to find 1-1/4” in grade 8
At least thats what my parts store stocks.
I would use grade 8’s, more resistant to corrosion.
 
The danger with grade 8 is that if you break it, you might not to be able to drill it out. Once again, over-kill and dangerous.
 
Murray said:
The danger with grade 8 is that if you break it, you might not to be able to drill it out. Once again, over-kill and dangerous.
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Not likely going to break it. Grade 8 drills just fine.
Taps, on the other hand do not.
Carbide drills will drill most everything.
 
Come on guys, all this talk about fancy bolts. You all dig around in your bucket of bolts just like me, until you pull out a greasy one that's almost the right size, clean it up and stick it in. LOL!
 
340doc said:
Come on guys, all this talk about fancy bolts. You all dig around in your bucket of bolts just like me, until you pull out a greasy one that's almost the right size, clean it up and stick it in. LOL!
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I probably have 40 the right size.
Buckets ,boxes-you name it.
But sometimes i thing there is a conspiracy, because i never have the exact bolt i’m looking for.
Like the U2 song, i still havent found the bolt i’m looking for....
 
Tooljunkie said:
I probably have 40 the right size.
Buckets ,boxes-you name it.
But sometimes i thing there is a conspiracy, because i never have the exact bolt i’m looking for.
Like the U2 song, i still havent found the bolt i’m looking for....
Click to expand...
So true Tooljunkie, so true...
 
I wouldn't risk it. Get a new crate motor. One bolt this week. 2 bolts next week. It could catch FIRE! :( Lol
 
barracudadave67 said:
A good 32 toothe hack saw= any length you want.
Dave
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I've been under the weather and I swear my brain is squarely lodged somewhere it's not supposed to be. I cut bolts for stuff al the time? How did I not think of that. Although I typically prefer a cutoff wheel in my angle grinder.

What's the final word? Galvanized or not galvanized?
 
Oh and it took a couple tries, but I got that sucker
20180425_184653.jpg
 
I used stainless since I have seen enough rusted T-stat and w.p. bolts. Only exception was the real long bolts on my small block which I had to buy Grade 8 chromate coated. I coat the threads w/ Permatex gasket sealant if they penetrate a water or oil cavity, anti-sieze otherwise. I don't know that Grade 8 are any harder to drill. Might be confusing hardness with tensile strength. Metallurgy is complicated.

Yes, we get that 72Dart6pack has a V-8 and enjoys trolling the slant forum. I have a slant, SB, & BB, enjoy all and the people who own them. The FMJ forum might need some elbows.
 
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I got tired of pulling out near corroded through water pump and front cover bolts on LA's so I got some all thread and 'studded' every bolt in the front. worked great! Thread it in and cut to length. Only thing bad about it was you had to pull the rad for any work up there as the parts had to slide all the way off the all-thread studs, and the alternator one is LONG. Did the same thing on my Mazdas stat housing. The OEM housing is made of some sort of lead or something, no joke. Maybe a pot metal casting? Whatever it is it cant hold a bolt for nothing so I had to drill it out and tap it for the next SAE size up (its metric) and then thread it and locktite an SAE stud in there. No more hassles. Stainless fasteners work great where there is no large torque spec as the fasteners are not all that strong. The polish up nice too on a wheel once you grind the numbers off the tops. carbide burs work to get the broken taps a flat face to drill into if you break one of those in there.
 
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