Notching K-frame for Milodon Pan

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xLURKxDOGx

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Anyone have any experience with this or tips/advice/pictures ?
I just picked up a 30940 pan because I got tired of issues with the other aftermarket pan I had. I’m hoping quality will pay off and I won’t ha e to take it out another time to seal the front gaske.

Thanks,
Jake
 
I have the same pan except mine is a 30935 in my 68 416 Barracuda. Are you using the stock K-member or a RMS type? I had to notch my pan to clear the rack and pinion on my RMS front end.
 
I have the same pan except mine is a 30935 in my 68 416 Barracuda. Are you using the stock K-member or a RMS type? I had to notch my pan to clear the rack and pinion on my RMS front end.

Sorry, this is a stock early frame. Just wondering if you chop it if you need to reinforce other areas?

Thanks
 
Here is what I ran into and how I fixed it.

oil pan hitting rack.jpg


oil pan hitting rack-2.jpg


Milodon pan after mods.jpg


Milodon pan after mods-2.jpg
 
To bad we're not closer to each other. I have a 73 spool type K-member that is cut out and boxed in. Will work with any oil pan.
 
Did this with a 71 Duster.....cut and boxed the k member.

IMG_0655.JPG
 
I have that pan on my 367 in a 68 Barracuda with a 70 Duster K. IIRC that engine actually went into the bay with no notching, if I put the trans in last. But I could not take the engine and trans out together, so I did make a lil notch in the K,eventually. A little right-angle triangle about 1x1x1.4, with the long side laying along the rear edge of the lip. I only notched the lip. I did not reinforce the K in any way. This gave her plenty of room. My 367 has almost always had more than an estimated 400hp and this was in year 2000.
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I think that pan also requires a matching pick-up, to put the screen on the floor. And if you are running a windage tray, I had to notch it to let the dipstick thru. It's a lot easier to do with the engine on the stand. Don't let the crank grab it when you are done. I bought that pan to drop the oil away from the crank, so I had to calibrate my stick for 5,6, and 7 quarts. I run it at about 5US quarts most of the time.
 
IMO you should bolt the member to your car, cut the center section out, weld in plate on cut out area, and weld in a strong tube. I am worried cutting like you guys are doing will cause weakness in a accident.
 
When i did a frame notch, i added plate inside the channel before i closed up the notch. Could only weld one side, but there was just as much steel in the k as before i started, if not more.
Still needs good penetrating welds.
 
Heres what I did to mine in order for the pan to clear on my 66 Dart. I wanted it to be stronger once completed.
IMAG0260.jpg
IMAG0261.jpg
IMAG0262.jpg

The angles are welded inside the frame and also on the metal added to close the frame off.
Rod
 
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