New rotors, old hub...

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JAndrea

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1969 Barracuda project car, stock discs in front... bought new rotors and wheel studs. Kept the old hubs.

Pictured is a new stud next to an old one.

So I just drove the new studs through new rotors and into the old hubs. The wheel studs are just a hair shy of fully seated at the back of the rotor. But The hub is a tad loose on the rotor. The studs went into the hub nice and tight. I’m wondering if that is normal and will they fully seat when I torque the studs/wheel on tight... or is there something terribly wrong here? It seems that the holes in the hub are a hair too large.

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Did you use a press to press the studs in?

No. I thought about it but have seen plenty of people driving them In with a hammer/swift setup (not mounted in car obviously) .... just a wee little bit at a time on all of them at the same time. They are super tight in the hub, but the rotor... I can rotate counter and clockwise just a hair. I don’t think a press would have helped this. They were loose the entire way in.
 
I used the the exact same studs pressed on my factory hubs and Centric Rotors and had no problems. What Brand Rotors are those?
 
Actually... once I used my press, and eased them down the last 1/16” or so, they all tightened up just fine. Stupid. I should have just done it correctly in the first place.

I got the rotors a while ago... and can’t find the brand. I’ll post it if I find them.

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In case anybody runs into this in the future, I ran all of the studs in with my press this time and left about 1/32” of to go on all of them, and the rotor is still wobbly at this point… So the studs really don’t seat until the final pressing up against the rotor housing.

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JAndrea
I like your method using the old rotor, on the bottom of the new one, using it to press in the new studs.
That's a good idea, that i never thought of, doing it that way.
I have been using 8 X 4 X 1 inch metal plates under the hub, then the arms, on the hydraulic press.
If i ever hafta do another rebuild job on a Kelsey Hayes disc brake set up, for resale purposes, I'm gonna, hafta, try your method.
Learned this old man here, something new tonight.
Thank's for the pictures.
Jim V.
hemi71x
 
could you torque them in with a lug wrench or would you tweak the rim? I broke one and replaced it that way.
 
I hope you have 7/16 lug nuts. The old studs are 1/2.
 
JAndrea
I like your method using the old rotor, on the bottom of the new one, using it to press in the new studs.
That's a good idea, that i never thought of, doing it that way.
I have been using 8 X 4 X 1 inch metal plates under the hub, then the arms, on the hydraulic press.
If i ever hafta do another rebuild job on a Kelsey Hayes disc brake set up, for resale purposes, I'm gonna, hafta, try your method.
Learned this old man here, something new tonight.
Thank's for the pictures.
Jim V.
hemi71x

Thanks Jim! It really worked slick. I messed around for a few minutes trying to stack plates, etc... then thought of this. It really does pay to keep the old parts around for just these kinds of reasons.

Not exactly sure what method I’ll use to press in the new bearings. I’m thinking the old race/bearings but I don’t want to get the old ones wedged inside as well. I have some big sockets that might work, but ideally I’d have an entire set of thick washers with varying diameter. Any tips?

Bearings are in the freezer right now.
 
I just always took after the old bearing OD with a sander for a minute and then used it as a press tool. You can always weld something to it so you can drive it back out, too. It's not like you're keeping it for sentimental reasons.
 
Yep, I have all new black ones that fit, thanks. Hmmm... 1/2”? Even the small bolt pattern? I really thought the old ones were 7/16”.

I dont think so.......I might be wrong, but I remember them being 1/2.
 
I dont think so.......I might be wrong, but I remember them being 1/2.

I’m sure you’re right. I can tell Now when I look closer at my pic of the old/new ones. The old ones are definitely larger.
 
I dont believe a 1/2 would even fit the 69 rim? still 5 on 4?
 
Set the new "race" in the hub where you want it.
Get the old one, and put it on top of the new one.
Hammer on top of the old one until the new one seats properly in the hub.
Turn over the rotor, hub assembly, and get a punch, and punch out the old one.
Easy, peasy, if you don't have a bearing-race driver set.

FYI
ALL studs, either disc, or drum brake, are 7/16 diameter.
 
I have this set up from harbor freight that I use for a lot of things. If you have your own press you mess around with different projects like me they come in handy. Can sometimes catch them on sale and get coupons.

Front Wheel Bearing Adapters
 
I have this set up from harbor freight that I use for a lot of things. If you have your own press you mess around with different projects like me they come in handy. Can sometimes catch them on sale and get coupons.

Front Wheel Bearing Adapters
Good to know! Looks like a great kit. I saw it when I bought my bearing separator kit from HF for rebuilding my a833.
 
Set the new "race" in the hub where you want it.
Get the old one, and put it on top of the new one.
Hammer on top of the old one until the new one seats properly in the hub.
Turn over the rotor, hub assembly, and get a punch, and punch out the old one.
Easy, peasy, if you don't have a bearing-race driver set.

FYI
ALL studs, either disc, or drum brake, are 7/16 diameter.

This is all the confirmation you need right here. ^^^^^ Jim is a super knowledgeable fella. If he says it, that's it. Sorry. I just remembered it wrong.
 
Something I ran into on some adapter hubs and this probably isn't your case but I had some like 12 mm or something studs? I had some 5 and 4 and 1/2 to 5 on 4 and 1/2 adapters. You would put the half inch nuts on and they would seem to tighten on but then all of a sudden spin. Who knows they may have come with metric stuff? Careful please.....
 
I used the aftermarket rotors like yours. Basically the same procedure. I did have an issue on the right side as the rotor wanted to rub on one of the boots on the KH calipers. The rough unfinished area of the rotor was not true and took some grinding and finishing to get it in spec. The left side was sweet.
 
I used the aftermarket rotors like yours. Basically the same procedure. I did have an issue on the right side as the rotor wanted to rub on one of the boots on the KH calipers. The rough unfinished area of the rotor was not true and took some grinding and finishing to get it in spec. The left side was sweet.

Great tip. Thanks!
 
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