Casting flash in lifter valley

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Edsrt

Edsrt

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Opon disassembly of my 2012 5.7 Hemi truck engine to repair a bad lifter and cam I notice what seem to be excessive casting flash between the lifter bores and the inner valley wall . Some of the edges are fairly sharp and thin . Contemplating grinding them away but I wonder if this would weaken the lifter bores?
 
Edsrt said:
Opon disassembly of my 2012 5.7 Hemi truck engine to repair a bad lifter and cam I notice what seem to be excessive casting flash between the lifter bores and the inner valley wall . Some of the edges are fairly sharp and thin . Contemplating grinding them away but I wonder if this would weaken the lifter bores?
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It should be ok to leave it alone or grind some of it down as long as you don't make the lifter bore wall too thin...
 
krazykuda said:
It should be ok to leave it alone or grind some of it down as long as you don't make the lifter bore wall too thin...
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Here's some photos of the area I am concerned with . I was wondering if maybe a piece may have broken off causing the cam lifter failure.

20180513_100438.jpg


20180513_100606.jpg


20180513_100518.jpg
 
Edsrt said:
Here's some photos of the area I am concerned with . I was wondering if maybe a piece may have broken off causing the cam lifter failure.

View attachment 1715175370

View attachment 1715175371

View attachment 1715175375
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I doubt a piece broke off, it most likely came that way from the foundry....

You can grind that away if it bothers you and increase the oil draining... Just make sure to leave enough meat around the lifter bores - don't get into the bottom radius around the bore, just around it...
 
krazykuda said:
I doubt a piece broke off, it most likely came that way from the foundry....

You can grind that away if it bothers you and increase the oil draining... Just make sure to leave enough meat around the lifter bores - don't get into the bottom radius around the bore, just around it...
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Kind of looks like it knocked out with a hammer or pick I wonder if 6.1 or the 6.4 block have the same sloppy finish.
 
Edsrt said:
Kind of looks like it knocked out with a hammer or pick I wonder if 6.1 or the 6.4 block have the same sloppy finish.
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They have people on the line at the foundry that are supposed to knock most of the flash out... Sometimes they don't get it all or it is very stuck in there...
 
If you're rebuilding the engine (down to the bare block), it wouldn't hurt to take a deburring bit on a dremel and just dress the jaggedness down a little. However, if you're not rebuilding, it's not worth the risk of getting metal particles into the engine. The problem with the cam and lifters is NOT associated with any of this. If putting a new cam and lifters is all you're doing, leave it alone. It's fine. BTW, I have both a brand new 6.1 block and brand new HC block and they both have this sloppiness. Looks like someone just too a hammer and chisel and busted out that thin area for oil drainback.
 
Hellcat Cuda said:
If you're rebuilding the engine (down to the bare block), it wouldn't hurt to take a deburring bit on a dremel and just dress the jaggedness down a little. However, if you're not rebuilding, it's not worth the risk of getting metal particles into the engine. The problem with the cam and lifters is NOT associated with any of this. If putting a new cam and lifters is all you're doing, leave it alone. It's fine. BTW, I have both a brand new 6.1 block and brand new HC block and they both have this sloppiness. Looks like someone just too a hammer and chisel and busted out that thin area for oil drainback.
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Thanks I was planning on just replacing the cam and lifters since the rod and crank bearings looked clean as a whistle but if I clean these up then the rest of the "might as wells" might turn this into a race engine and blow the budget.
 
I know how the "might as well" scenario goes. Been prone to that with my project. If you've checked out your mains and rod bearings, keep in mind the bolts for these are one time use "torque to yield" bolts. Same with the head bolts. Must buy new replacement bolts. Pain in the *** and wallet for sure.
 
Hellcat Cuda said:
I know how the "might as well" scenario goes. Been prone to that with my project. If you've checked out your mains and rod bearings, keep in mind the bolts for these are one time use "torque to yield" bolts. Same with the head bolts. Must buy new replacement bolts. Pain in the *** and wallet for sure.
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Yes. I know about the torque to yield bolts, I was looking into ARP bolts and studs but they are pricey certainly not small block Chevy prices
 
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